Possibly dumb question from a noob...

[Alex.mc]

I have a plastic bodied Electrim boiling kettle with a kettle element and thermostat.
Previously I've heated the water to the mash temp, lobbed in the grain, stirred, put the lid on and wrapped it up in a blanket and left it for the allotted time.
The next brew requires a staged raise in temps.
If I use the element to increase the temp, and ensure I stir continuously whilst raising it, will the grain be safe from scorching where it momentarily is in contact with the element?

 

[chesters-mild]

If you use a brew bag you can lift it out of the boiler and raise the temp. then pop the bag back in. You may have to rig up a simple 'A' frame lift using a small stepladder (as James Morton's book) to do this.
Cheers

 

[Wouter]

Previously I've heated the water to the mash temp, lobbed in the grain, stirred, put the lid on and wrapped it up in a blanket and left it for the allotted time.

Better heat to above mash temperature. The grain lowers the temperature of the water.

 

[Alex.mc]

Better heat to above mash temperature. The grain lowers the temperature of the water.

Yes, true... but the recipe calls for an incremental increase in temp. 3 raises from memory.
As suggested In could use the teenage but I wonder if the repeated draining and re-steeping night affect things?

 

[Simonh82]

I do step mashes with my BIAB system. You need to make sure the bag stays away from the element, either by lifting it out completely or hoiking up the sides of the bag and securing them with a bungee so that you are confident that bottom of the bag is above the element. If you are just talking about loose grain in the kettle then I think you will definitely scorch the grain, even with constant stirring.

One thing that I've recently discovered since using a pump in my system to recirculate the wort and measure the temperature as it returns to the kettle, is that the wort under the bag, close to the element will heat up to high temperatures very quickly. Leaving the element on for only a minute will have this wort shooting up above 80°C whilst the main body of the mash has only warmed up a couple of degrees. I now switch the heat on and off whilst keeping the wort moving to ensure the temperature doesn't get above 69°C. It takes longer to raise the temperature between mash steps but I'm happy that I'm not damaging the enzymes needed for the next mash rest.

 

[Sadfield]

What are your two step temperatures? It may be easier to mash in as normal then add enough boiling water, from kettles or another pan, to raise to the next temperature. An infusion step mash.

It may also be safer to do away with the first mash step altogether. The benefit may not outweigh the risks.

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[Gunge]

As suggested In could use the teenage

Ah couldn't we all.

 

[BarnBrian]

Ah couldn't we all.

You'd end up with teenage spots.....

 

[Alex.mc]

Lol! Damn autocorrect on phones!

This is the recipe, https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/190892/brooklyn-sorachi-ace

 

[Sadfield]

Lol! Damn autocorrect on phones!

This is the recipe, https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/190892/brooklyn-sorachi-ace

Nice beer.

I've got a book at home that has the actual recipe for this beer, I don't recall it being step mashed, I'll check later.

The BYO recipe seems at odds with itself having two starch (Saccharification) rests, presumably to increase fermentability, then a mash out. It does however show the recipe as being an infusion step mash, so the following mash schedule would work, adding boiling water to the mash to raise the temperature for each step.

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[Alex.mc]

Hi Sadfield,

So according to that, first 13 litres is set at 50c and the grain put in, then 5.7, 2.1, and 8.5 litres of boiling water is added at the time steps thereafter to achive the mash temps without external heating via the inbuilt element?

Apologies but I am a noob!

 

[Sadfield]

Hi Sadfield,

So according to that, first 13 litres is set at 50c and the grain put in, then 5.7, 2.1, and 8.5 litres of boiling water is added at the time steps thereafter to achive the mash temps without external heating via the inbuilt element?

Apologies but I am a noob!

Almost, for the initial mash in you'll need your water at 55.2c, so that when you add grain (at around 18c) it will drop down to 50c. Then add those quantities of boiling water to hit the other temperatures. It may take a little more boiling water depending on how good your mash tun retains temperature over each rest period.

Yes, this method removes the need for your internal element, if you are worried about grain scorching on it.

You will need to check that your brew bucket can hold the total volume of grain and water. I'm not sure of the volume of those Electrim ones.

Just checked my book and it is pretty much the same recipe you have.

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[Alex.mc]

Thanks, I will go with your advice. The Electrim is happily big enough, I measured it out when I first used it and it happily takes 25 litres for the boil with room spare at the top.
I really liked the Sorachi Ace that I bought bottled, and I've decided to do a few single hop beers for the time being to learn their characteristics, and keep things simple.
I have big holes in my brewing knowledge, but I'm still very new to it. I must learn to use the software as it clearly is of great help.

 

[telenomus]

If I use the element to increase the temp, and ensure I stir continuously whilst raising it, will the grain be safe from scorching where it momentarily is in contact with the element?

I have used these boilers for many years. Used to do step mashes in them or add heat to the mash for mash out. I have never scorched the grains, but you do have to stir; so it takes a little muscle. As mentioned, the BIAB is also an option if you lift the bag. Of course, a single infusion mash is easier, good luck!

 

[foxbat]

I wouldn't bother with all those rests in this particular recipe. The first short one is a protein rest. Read around and you'll find out that if you use a well modified malt (pilsner in your case) then a protein rest can do more damage than good.

The other two as @Sadfield has pointed out are saccharification rests. With that super-simple grain bill I cannot see a fermentability issue if you use an appropriately sized starter with your Saison yeast. Mash out is not relevant for no-sparge BIAB. Conversion stops dead when you lift out the bag.

I'd personally use Ireks, Bestmalz or Weyermann pilsner. I have a personal liking for Ireks but they're all good. I'd do a single infusion at about 66C, ferment with Wyeast 3711 and call it beer.

PS. Don't waste money on the pH 5.2 stabiliser. pH will be important in this recipe because of the extremely light colour but you can adjust your water with phosphoric or lactic acid and those will actually work, unlike the 5.2 stabiliser.

 

[Alex.mc]

Just checked, I have Dingemans Pilsner malt, and MaltMiller says it's ideal for single temp infusions.

 

[Alex.mc]

Ok, it's in the FV!
I was pretty pushed for time and attention to other things yesterday so went with the 66c single infusion.

Will report back in a few weeks!