Polypin Question

[BrotherMalice]

Where is a good place to get them from (lhbs dont have them)

A could I just pour from the tap untill I can finance a beer engine?

 

[dennisking]

You can buy them here http://www.murphyhomebrew.com/equipment/cat_25.html
I've not used these ones as I can buy them from my LHBS but I'm sure they are much of a muchness and yes straight out the tap is how I poured beer for the first 30 years or so.

 

[BrotherMalice]

Cheers for the link, may have to give it a go :)

Shame they dont do a 40 pint one, a few bottles to keep for a rainy day cant be a bad thing though...

 

[earthwormgaz]

I suppose the only bad things are lower shelf life than in a bottle, and you can't keep it cool like a bottle (fridge).

 

[Springer]

Cheers for the link, may have to give it a go :)

Shame they dont do a 40 pint one, a few bottles to keep for a rainy day cant be a bad thing though...

I recon that might be a bit big to handle. Get two 20s. These are not a complete answer just one of many solutions, I think I mentioned put my last 18 gallons into bottles, pins and cornies, got all angles covered.

I suppose the only bad things are lower shelf life than in a bottle, and you can't keep it cool like a bottle (fridge).

As above gaz, think you answered your own question. :thumb:

S

 

[phettebs]

Think only us four are interested in pins. :shock:
Oh well, you can take the horse to the water :? should that be beer :? ............but you can't............make......... :lol:
S

I'm interested! Stainless pins and beer engines are not easy (read cheap) to find over here in the US so I'm all for using a polypin to get me as close as possible to a UK real ale as I can get.

I plan to carb at a very low rate and condition at room temp. Then I'll put it into a temp controlled freezer at around 11C. Here's the part I'm not sure about. My LHBS gives this advice:

"- Open spigot and bleed off the extra pressure
- Compress the poly-pin to push out as much of the CO2 as possible
- Let the weight of the beer pull open the poly-pin and draw in as much air as possible
- Close the spigot when its full. It should feel bloated.
- Give the whole poly-pin a good shake to get the oxygen into the beer.
- Wait about a week and serve either by gravity or by beer engine."

I understand that true real ale gets exposed to oxygen and the taste changes. But it's also consumed quickly. This is just me drinking it. I think the idea behind the instructions listed above is to introduce a small amount of air and let it do its work. After that, I wouldn't be adding any more air because the pin should just collapse on itself as I draw out pints. Does this make sense? I mean I'd like to get about a month out of it if I can.

Baz

 

[Springer]

Den is the expert here, but the way I do it is to add beer until the pin is nearly full, then push down to expell as much air as possible, you don't want that in the pin and then put the cap on. After a while fermentation will produce CO2 and bloat out the pin, with the tap uppermost let this off periodically so that the pin is not over stressed. I do give a shake to push co2 into the beer and encourage fermentation in the early stages.
Don't try to get to much pressure in the pin they are not designed for it.
S
P.S. I'm off, its no good talking about it.............I'm off to have a go at one of my pins. :lol:

 

[dennisking]

Barry, by spigot do you mean the US ones have a vent on the top, I have seen this on line somewhere. The UK ones have only taps which I use pretty much as springer describes. I know pubs will allow some air in the barrel in the cellar but as I want it to last more than a few days I keep air out. The beer does not seem to suffer.

 

[phettebs]

They come with just a screw on cap but you can purchase the cap/spigot separately.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/5-ga ... ainer.html
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/cubi ... pigot.html

So you guys don't purposely introduce any air? That's fine for me. The document seems to imply that the little bit you add will properly change the flavor but not cause it to go bad like continuously adding oxygen would. I'll try to keep it out.

I've been reading through all the posts/threads here and on Jim's and it seems pretty straightforward. Looking forward to giving it a go.

Thank you gentlemen!

 

[dennisking]

Let ud know how it turns out. :thumb:

 

[BrotherMalice]

I hope this is not too stupid a question...

They are re-usable are they? :?

 

[dennisking]

I hope this is not too stupid a question...

They are re-usable are they? :?

Yes, I keep a stock of about 5, to allow them to condition, which are continually used but tend to replace them after 2-3 years. At under a tenner each I replace them before there is any problem, not that I have had many problems.

 

[Springer]

P.S. I'm off, its no good talking about it.............I'm off to have a go at one of my pins. :lol:

Tried a spot from the pin and a cornie and a bottle, a fine brew if I say it myself, all have there use depending what you want but pins have a lot going for them as mentioned up post.
Advertising over, but I have a gross of pins to sell....................... only joking :lol:

 

[MattPark]

Just ordered 2 of the 20litre polypins from murphys @ £8.70 each with delivery £5.
I have 2 lhbs who wanted £17 for one polypin!!

Anyway.......can someone tell me what size diameter tubing the tap on the polypins take?
I intend to hook them up to my hand pump.
From my hand pump it is 1/2" id to the check valve, then from the check valve it is 3/8" so I am guessing I am going to need to increase the id size to the polypin......ideas??

 

[MattPark]

Also, when I transfer the brew from the primary fv into the polypin, do I still add some priming sugar as I did when kegging?

 

[dennisking]

I use 1/2" tubing direct from tap to hand pump.

Priming sugar is down to how you want to drink the beer. As I like to let the beer condition for around 3 weeks I would not prime when filling as it would expand to early. I tend to barrel a couple of points early and let prime slowly on its own as it conditions.

 

[MattPark]

But does the beer not run back into the pin without a check valve?

 

[BrotherMalice]

if the poly is up above the pump that shouldnt happen?

 

[MattPark]

if the poly is up above the pump that shouldnt happen?

Ahhhh......in my case where the poly will be under the bar thus under the pump....check valve needed or at least preferred!

 

[dennisking]

But does the beer not run back into the pin without a check valve?

No, you can see in my photo the pin is lower than the hand pump. I put jubilee clips on both end of the tube so it's all air tight.