PID problem's

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cononthebarber

Landlord.
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
1,140
Reaction score
2
Location
Shrewsbury
I hope someone can help?

I have bought the REX-C100 PID controller from HERE

and connected it up it the live (red) mains into terminal 1 and neutral (blue) into terminal 2 of the PID

I have connected a PT-100 thermocouple from HERE into terminals 9 and 10 of the PID

Now when I turn on the PID it just read's 25c and does not change at all, I've put the thermocouple into cold water and even boiling water and no difference...if I unplug the thermocouple i get an flashing error "ooooo" (which according to the manual means an over-read error.

I have also tried to swap round the thermocouple connections with no change.

Do you think the thermocouple is at fault or the PID?

Your helpful replies will be much appreciated :pray:
 
have you set it up to read pt100 input?

im afraid the probe may not be water proof, it looks very similar to the bargain probes i got which were not sealed between the SS sheath and the metal threaded body, yep metal not SS,,, it will rust if the same as mine..

i sealed mine first.. then discovered they were rusting :(

you may need to consider a thermowell or dry-pocket to house the probe, i made one from reducing copper tube and solder fittings which works well in my placky hlt..
 
Having read a load of other posts online it seems that the controller I have is only compatable with K-Type thermocouples...unless the settings can be changed? Does anyone know how to do this, or should I buy myself a differend thermocouple? Perhaps THIS one?
 
i use a different unit a sestos controller, which by default is set to read input from a type K thermocouple, and needed telling to read a pt100 probe as part of its setup, check the default in the manual for yours and for the setup procedure,

i looked at the pid link and could not determine if its suitable for ssr control, I would have expected to see a dc voltage quoted for the ssr control, but i failed to see it, though that in itself means little as im far from expert.
 
if u want a type k thermocouple send me a sae and i will let u have one, both my pid units came with em and i use pt100's so they are useless to me pm me to arrange if u want..

tho im pretty sure you can change the sensor input, just going by memory from another post about rex units, the manual may give u one value but another actually works, if the manual setting dont work, i think from memory its telling you to put in binary 8, but in fact wants binary 12 or visa versa...
 
I have a copy of the instructions in english for the REX c100 if you want a copy. Just pm me your email and I'll send it. You can change the input type.
 
The thermocouple you linked to has three wires. Did you connect them to terminals 8,9 and 10?

Just went out to my shed to peak at how I connected mine. The two blue lugs from your thermocouple go to pins 9 and 10, the red one goes to pin 8.

edit : and from memory I did have to configure it to use a PT100 probe. I don't think it is set up for that by default
 
Fil said:
if u want a type k thermocouple send me a sae and i will let u have one, both my pid units came with em and i use pt100's so they are useless to me pm me to arrange if u want..

Thats a very kind offer thank you, after the post below yours Bob is going to send me a copy of the manual so hopefully I can get the bugger working! Thanks anyway :thumb:
 
And Fil raises a good point. I don't think your unit has an SSR control output. At least, squinting at the wee wiring diagram printed on the side of the unit, in one of the piccies at your link, suggests that it has a relay output (on pins 3,4,5).

Squint at the diagram in the last piccy here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250868564458

Note that pin 3 is unused, and pins 4 and 5 have a +/- on them. This is like mine - it means it drives a low-voltage DC output on these pins, which can be used to switch an SSR.

If yours does have the relay outputs, then those can't be used to switch an SSR directly. And I think the relays in those units have a max current rating of 3A (or 720W at 240V), so you can't switch the likes of a kettle element with the built-in relay.
 
I'm just confirming what's already been said...
The pt100 should have 3 inputs to the Pid.
The pid will not work with these by default though can be changed (google)
And the pid won't have an ssr output, though if you can solder you can take it apart and hack it easily.

There are a number of threads on these particular pids on this forum and jims
 
Having faffed around a lot with my PID I'm not sure the input type can be changed...I followed the instructions Bob sent me and I am unable to get into the "initial setting" menu. It just doesn't do it, i.e. setting the "lock" paramater to 0000 and then holding both the "set" and left arrow bottons for 5 seconds. It doesn't show the "SC1" menu which it describes which should then allow you to select and input type ...I've checked the model number of the one I have and it is as follows:

REX-C100FK02 M*AN

which indicated that it is set to a "K-type" thermocouple with a range of 0-400c

Does this mean then I can only use this type of thermocouple? or am I doing something horribly wrong which I have glaringly overlooked?
 
Thanks Mark the 1000 setting allows me to enter the "SL" settings and so I have now entered and for "SL1" setting I have changed this to "1100" to select the input type of PT100 to match the thermocouple I have.

Now the PV is stuck on -5.0 and doesn't move...what am I doing wrong? Do I need a different input code to select input type?
 
Try 1000 instead of 1100. I also found I had to turn it off, connect up my pt100 and then turn it on again for it to recognise it.
 
Mark you're a genius! It's working! :party:

Now all I need to do is do the hack to set it up for controlling a relay!

Thanks Mark you're a life-saver!
 
Back
Top