'Packaging' timing query

[Scrattajack]

As we don't have temperature control, I'd aimed to get all of my brewing done by the end of April (apart from a Saison). Trouble is, brew days kept getting rained off over winter so this isn't going to happen. Both fermenters are in use and there's a backlog of three brews in no-chill cubes.

The schedule is to ferment in the house for two weeks (18-20 C), then move it to the garage (fluctuates but has been 7-10 C) and then 'package' after a further two weeks.

So, the question is, can I save any time here? Cut the cooling to a week maybe? Also, I have two Corny kegs temporarily free. Would it be a bad idea if I transferred a brew straight from primary after its first two weeks to a Corny, left it in there for the two weeks cooling and then force carbed it? I'm concerned about the amount of sediment if I did that.

Any advice on cutting any corners appreciated!

 

[Clint]

Most brews are done after two weeks..just check with a hydrometer then get them packaged.
You could also brew a wheat beer as they don't mind being warmer...or brew anything with kviek yeast.

 

[Fireside Ales Homebrewery]

As we don't have temperature control, I'd aimed to get all of my brewing done by the end of April (apart from a Saison). Trouble is, brew days kept getting rained off over winter so this isn't going to happen. Both fermenters are in use and there's a backlog of three brews in no-chill cubes.

The schedule is to ferment in the house for two weeks (18-20 C), then move it to the garage (fluctuates but has been 7-10 C) and then 'package' after a further two weeks.

So, the question is, can I save any time here? Cut the cooling to a week maybe? Also, I have two Corny kegs temporarily free. Would it be a bad idea if I transferred a brew straight from primary after its first two weeks to a Corny, left it in there for the two weeks cooling and then force carbed it? I'm concerned about the amount of sediment if I did that.

Any advice on cutting any corners appreciated!

You can go from 14 day primary to keg and carb. I wouldn’t worry too much about the sediment. It will be fairly minimal in my experience and will probably sit clear of your beer line anyway.

 

[jMac]

Would it be a bad idea if I transferred a brew straight from primary after its first two weeks to a Corny

Not a bad idea at all!

Are you keeping the beers cooler after primary for 2 weeks as an extended cold crash? I often don’t cold crash at all, as I also don’t have cooling temp control, but when I do it’s only for 24-48 hours. There’s no problem packaging and even carbing your beer after the two weeks in primary (provided your FG has been reached).

Remember the 2+2+2 ‘rule’ - 2 weeks in primary + 2 weeks to carb + 2 weeks to condition. I bottle condition my beers, don’t keg and force carb, so would think you could save even more time with your set-up by not having to do the 2 weeks carbonation step.

 

[Polcho]

Can I ask what the properties of this kviek yeast are that would make it a choice in this situation.

 

[Clint]

You can use kviek at 25c+ without any off flavours and it'll be done in less than a week (to put it simply). Plenty of videos about...some are doing grain to glass in 10 days.

 

[Leon103]

As we don't have temperature control, I'd aimed to get all of my brewing done by the end of April (apart from a Saison). Trouble is, brew days kept getting rained off over winter so this isn't going to happen. Both fermenters are in use and there's a backlog of three brews in no-chill cubes.

The schedule is to ferment in the house for two weeks (18-20 C), then move it to the garage (fluctuates but has been 7-10 C) and then 'package' after a further two weeks.

So, the question is, can I save any time here? Cut the cooling to a week maybe? Also, I have two Corny kegs temporarily free. Would it be a bad idea if I transferred a brew straight from primary after its first two weeks to a Corny, left it in there for the two weeks cooling and then force carbed it? I'm concerned about the amount of sediment if I did that.

Any advice on cutting any corners appreciated!

I don't even wait 2 weeks to ferment. Most don't need it.

If you are kegging I would ferment as you are, cold crash for 24 hours and then get it in the keg and carb.

If you are bottling I would do as above but once primed in the bottle I would bring inside for 2 weeks to carb, then out them outside to condition.

 

[Scrattajack]

Thanks for the replies, all. They've reassured me that I should crack on and get it done

or brew anything with kviek yeast.

We had a couple of goes at that last summer but there was a taste to the beer we didn't like much. It was the Stranda one...

You can go from 14 day primary to keg and carb.

I'll give that a go with one of the milds, I think. I've run out...

Are you keeping the beers cooler after primary for 2 weeks as an extended cold crash?

Yes, just to clear it, really.

If you are kegging I would ferment as you are, cold crash for 24 hours and then get it in the keg and carb.

It's a mix, I'm new to kegging, only on my second batch. As for cold crash, I have no way of making sure that happens. I've been able to take advantage of the low temperatures in the garage.

 

[Scrattajack]

Well, over a month after your sage advice both fermenters still have their original contents! The first, a bitter, reached its target gravity of 1013 (two days apart and all that) and so was put into the cool(ish) area for a week to settle. It's now at 1006, fizzy and cloudy. Tastes good, if a bit dry. 1968 yeast, apparently it does this...

The other, a Witbier, cleared nicely on queue. Trouble is, hydrometer says no. 1020. Roused it and raised the temperature, going again now. Witbier yeast, apparently it does this...