Hi Everyone,
I need some advice on extraction efficiency and OG.
I am an all-grain brewer, having started with a pic-nic coller w/PVC manifold mash tun and graduated to a Polar Wear Pot with a false bottom. No matter what my methods or equipment, I can never seem to reach the OG numbers on recipes. I was thinking that my pic nic cooler setup was inefficient, but it gave me the same numbers I am now getting from my kettle with false bottom.
Here are a few things I have tried, none seeming to make much difference:
- Using a plate on top of the grains and very slowly (1QT every 10 minutes) pouring water onto the plate.
- Flooding the grains with 1 inch of water and maintaining that space as some brewers advocate, to keep from chanelling.
- Varying the volume of water in my mash. This changes the ratio between wort from the mash and wort from sparing. What is the ideal mixture?
The only thing I haven't tried is a fancy sparge sprinkling system, but my brew mentors tell me that they are worthless gadgetry. True or False.
Am I misreading my hydrometer (I do wait for it to fall to room temp.)
Are the OGs in recipes unreasonable given homebrewing efficiency?
I seem to remember taking the lbs of grain, dividing by 2 and multiplying by 10 to get the OG, is this right? This seems to agree with the recipe numbers.
And while I'm at it, what is the ideal volume of wort that comes from the mash water, before you even start sparging?
I have seen folks who will have their kettle half full of wort from draining the mash tun, even before they start sparing.
My brewing mentor - a very "relax and have a homebrew guy" - says, just add more grains. $1 more grains per brew is cheaper and quicker than an extra pot with a sparge system. But, I'm a geek and I just can't settle for inefficiency.
Help me out, brewing brttheren.
Numbers from my latest brew: 8 lbs Pale Malt, .5 lbs Crystol 10 LOV, 5 gallons, OG = .1034 - .1036. Recipe says should be .1045.
Kage
I need some advice on extraction efficiency and OG.
I am an all-grain brewer, having started with a pic-nic coller w/PVC manifold mash tun and graduated to a Polar Wear Pot with a false bottom. No matter what my methods or equipment, I can never seem to reach the OG numbers on recipes. I was thinking that my pic nic cooler setup was inefficient, but it gave me the same numbers I am now getting from my kettle with false bottom.
Here are a few things I have tried, none seeming to make much difference:
- Using a plate on top of the grains and very slowly (1QT every 10 minutes) pouring water onto the plate.
- Flooding the grains with 1 inch of water and maintaining that space as some brewers advocate, to keep from chanelling.
- Varying the volume of water in my mash. This changes the ratio between wort from the mash and wort from sparing. What is the ideal mixture?
The only thing I haven't tried is a fancy sparge sprinkling system, but my brew mentors tell me that they are worthless gadgetry. True or False.
Am I misreading my hydrometer (I do wait for it to fall to room temp.)
Are the OGs in recipes unreasonable given homebrewing efficiency?
I seem to remember taking the lbs of grain, dividing by 2 and multiplying by 10 to get the OG, is this right? This seems to agree with the recipe numbers.
And while I'm at it, what is the ideal volume of wort that comes from the mash water, before you even start sparging?
I have seen folks who will have their kettle half full of wort from draining the mash tun, even before they start sparing.
My brewing mentor - a very "relax and have a homebrew guy" - says, just add more grains. $1 more grains per brew is cheaper and quicker than an extra pot with a sparge system. But, I'm a geek and I just can't settle for inefficiency.
Help me out, brewing brttheren.
Numbers from my latest brew: 8 lbs Pale Malt, .5 lbs Crystol 10 LOV, 5 gallons, OG = .1034 - .1036. Recipe says should be .1045.
Kage