No Chill

[private4587]

I am about to embark on my 1st AG brew probably a Northen Brown Ale from GH book using a No Chill method of cooling. Would have liked to have done an IPA but unsure of the hop addition timing with this method of cooling. Anyone give advice on timings it would be much appreciated.

Peter

 

[MyQul]

I no chill and I just do my additions as if I wasn't doing no-chill i.e. follow the reciepe as laid out. The I just strain the hops out through a seive after the boil as I pour the hot wort into my no chill FV.
The only difference I do is with 0min additions. I let the wort cool down in the no-chill FV to about 75C (Ideally I'd wait till it was at 65C but I usually get bored by the time it's got to about 75C) then put the 0min addition in and seal up the FV to cool for 24-48 hours.
I used to faff about with micro boils and hop teas but since starting to do the the above I havent noticed any difference.

 

[aamcle]

Just as MyQuil says, it's easy and just like him I don't bother messing my hops about although I have made hop tea for the 0 min hops..



aamcle

 

[Robin54]

I no chill and I just do my additions as if I wasn't doing no-chill i.e. follow the reciepe as laid out. The I just strain the hops out through a seive after the boil as I pour the hot wort into my no chill FV.
The only difference I do is with 0min additions. I let the wort cool down in the no-chill FV to about 75C (Ideally I'd wait till it was at 65C but I usually get bored by the time it's got to about 75C) then put the 0min addition in and seal up the FV to cool for 24-48 hours.
I used to faff about with micro boils and hop teas but since starting to do the the above I havent noticed any difference.

Am I right in thinking that you chill in your FV? I do.

 

[MyQul]

Am I right in thinking that you chill in your FV? I do.

No. I have a dedicated FV (my old, first coopers one) that I no chill in. I then can transfer all the wort out of it once cool and leave all the break material behind in the no-chill FV. That way I have about 1-2cm of quite pure yeast cake, after fermentation has finished, that I can harvest or just re-pitch

 

[Robin54]

No. I have a dedicated FV (my old, first coopers one) that I no chill in. I then can transfer all the wort out of it once cool and leave all the break material behind in the no-chill FV. That way I have about 1-2cm of quite pure yeast cake, after fermentation has finished, that I can harvest or just re-pitch

Righty right, with you now. I can see the advantage of leaving all the crap behind, especially when doing a small batch which you and I both do (I believe). I might give that whirl some time.

 

[MyQul]

Righty right, with you now. I can see the advantage of leaving all the crap behind, especially when doing a small batch which you and I both do (I believe). I might give that whirl some time.

I've changed my mind about doing small batches as I've realized that, if I make lower OG beers (I prefer these anyway) I can still do about 20L doing maxi-BIAB using my new wilko pot. Which turns out to be bigger than I thought is was (13.5L rather than the 12L it's advertised as). I'm also hoping I'm going to get really good efficiency now I have a mill, once I've dialled in my crush - which will also help increase the brew length.
Leaving all the crap behind also helps with bottling straight from the primary too

 

[private4587]

Thanks for all your replies, Mr MyQul do you use this hop procedure for all beers and largers. and another question you don't mind. Like yourself i have also a cheap mill unused at the moment, was wondering what gap you have it set at
Many Thanks
Peter

 

[MyQul]

Thanks for all your replies, Mr MyQul do you use this hop procedure for all beers and largers. and another question you don't mind. Like yourself i have also a cheap mill unused at the moment, was wondering what gap you have it set at
Many Thanks
Peter

Yes. The hop procedure I outlined, I use for everything I make.

As far as the mill goes, I think I've been very conservative when it comes to malt crush. My next brew day, I will be cranking the bridle down as far as can to get the finest crush I can. Have a look at my brewday thread as their is discussion of this between myself and other forumites
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60803&page=5 (from about post 43 onwards

 

[Robin54]

Yes. The hop procedure I outlined, I use for everything I make.

As far as the mill goes, I think I've been very conservative when it comes to malt crush. My next brew day, I will be cranking the bridle down as far as can to get the finest crush I can. Have a look at my brewday thread as their is discussion of this between myself and other forumites
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60803&page=5 (from about post 43 onwards

Interestingly I always buy crushed grain but when I measured the last lot out I noticed the majority was in fact whole. Out came the rolling pin. I quaffed a can of spinach and got stuck in...I woke up in the local A&E...bit of brewing artistic license there.

 

[MyQul]

Interestingly I always buy crushed grain but when I measured the last lot out I noticed the majority was in fact whole. Out came the rolling pin. I quaffed a can of spinach and got stuck in...I woke up in the local A&E...bit of brewing artistic license there.

My next brewday is next weekend. I will of course post how things went after grinding the grain as fine as I can

 

[Robin54]

My next brewday is next weekend. I will of course post how things went after grinding the grain as fine as I can

That will be interesting since I ordered the same mill as yourself and then cancelled it after a bit of thought. It really was a question of yes no yes no yes no... sh*t why, Im making great beer and you guys are screwing with my mind:lol:

 

[MyQul]

That will be interesting since I ordered the same mill as yourself and then cancelled it after a bit of thought. It really was a question of yes no yes no yes no... sh*t why, Im making great beer and you guys are screwing with my mind:lol:

But if I post something along the lines of, 'WOW! I got 89% efficiency' or some such crazyness your going to be considering that mill again :lol:

 

[Robin54]

But if I post something along the lines of, 'WOW! I got 89% efficiency' or some such crazyness your going to be considering that mill again :lol:

Your right, but I shall just ignore you as some pontificating, attention seeking ****:lol:

 

[MyQul]

Your right, but I shall just ignore you as some pontificating, attention seeking ****:lol:

:lol::lol:

Apart from being able to potificate have you considered the cost benefits of have a mill? I noticed if I buy GEB's Irish base malt by the kg it works out at about a quid a kilo up to 10kg but if I buy a 25kg sack it only costs 76p a kilo. If you only doing small batches this isnt a problem either as uncrushed grain lasts about a year

 

[Robin54]

:lol::lol:

Apart from being able to potificate have you considered the cost benefits of have a mill? I noticed if I buy GEB's Irish base malt by the kg it works out at about a quid a kilo up to 10kg but if I buy a 25kg sack it only costs 76p a kilo. If you only doing small batches this isnt a problem either as uncrushed grain lasts about a year

Thats a good point but unfortunately my Credit Card is linked to my wifes (American Ex) and she can instantly see what Im spending!!! Im doomed, doomed I tell yer!!:lol:

 

[MyQul]

Thats a good point but unfortunately my Credit Card is linked to my wifes (American Ex) and she can instantly see what Im spending!!! Im doomed, doomed I tell yer!!:lol:

In that case that would be a hard sell because to make the mill worth is (£20) you'd need to buy a 25kg bag of grain too (£19+£6 P&P), and those red flags on SWMBO's credit card would be definately flying

 

[Robin54]

My next brewday is next weekend. I will of course post how things went after grinding the grain as fine as I can

Lets back on track here, because this is a serious forum after all. Let us know how your grinding goes (get it!!) and your brew day efficiency.

 

[MyQul]

Lets back on track here, because this is a serious forum after all. Let us know how your grinding goes (get it!!) and your brew day efficiency.

Your right. Will do :thumb:

 

[JFB]

I am about to embark on my 1st AG brew probably a Northen Brown Ale from GH book using a No Chill method of cooling. Would have liked to have done an IPA but unsure of the hop addition timing with this method of cooling. Anyone give advice on timings it would be much appreciated.

Peter

I move hop additions forward 20 minutes. Then any late additions get split between putting straight into the cube with wort poured on top, waiting for the wort to drop below 80c before dropping in and dry hopping.
And sometimes I first wort hop, but if its your first brew I wouldn't worry about this.