No Chill Cubes

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Likely would yes
It's kinda how I handled it last night with my initial cooling period being expedited by the somewhere messy IC.
Thinking about cubes bc it opens up the potential for me to do brews after work and still have time to clean

Considering I was set up properly and on time when I arrive home lol
You cooled to 40° and were probably very hands on by the sound of it. If you just let it cool naturally to around 50° and clean up while waiting, all you'd be left to clean would be the kettle. Might be an efficient way of doing it.
 
Hello,

I've had a disaster of a first brew in my backroom with no running water. Steam condenser didn't work as well as I though it would with a large capacity pump which was inconvenient but manageable.

The biggest sticking point was cooling.
I tried using my immersion coil chiller and this ended up being incredibly inefficient and messy.
I managed to get it down to about 37°C before transferring to my fermzilla for the evening and pitched the yeast this morning.

I will not be using this method again in this setting. Which lead me to the no chill method.

I'm looking at these:

https://www.bluestarpackaging.co.uk...-evident-cap---30-recycled-content-3810-p.asp

Also looking at the 20L from Malt Miller too and a couple of 1/2L ones too from Bluestar to maximise my yield.

Anybody able to share their experience with no chill?
It's rather deflating that the money I spent on the cooling equipment is effectively wasted in my current setting but needs must you know?
Once I get a different place with better room and running water access it'll come into its own again.
Only use HDPE cubes if you really want to cube the wort. But I agree with what a couple of others have said: leave it in the kettle until the next day. The kettle is sanitised, so there are no worries there.
The other issue is the hops, some will say to use the 40 minute in place of 60 min, 10 minute in place of 30 minutes 20 and later add after flame out or in the cube.
It makes more sense to calculate the hops at 80 minutes, not 60 minutes and the same with other additions. Isomerisation at 90C is half of what it is at 100C. Brewers Friend or the like will help calculate the additions.
 
I think @MashBag is a minimal effort AG brewer, even fermenting in the kettle (which I might try at some point)
At one point I think he was using a standard fan pointed at the kettle to increase the cooling rate as a simple alternative to a fancy chiller.

Just to complete that... Its the extractor fan. After boil I remove the 4" hoze and then aim in at the kettle. Works like a charm. Beer is cool after lunch and i nip back & sprinkle.
 
I've been doing this for years with no issue: seal the lid with plastic wrap and into the cellar overnight.View attachment 104921
That's not "no-chill"! That's "no-chill".

Now, pay attention and understand the difference! 😁

Next we'll have @MashBag explaining where we'll find the boiler's on/off switch. (What you mean he already has and I'm not paying attention? ... Cheeky so-and-so.).
 
The piccie of my no-chill cubes with "anti-bulge" plates attached and overly complicated fillers, ready to go, as promised earlier:

1729242079726.jpeg


Don't actually need those "complicated" tee-pieces on the fillers: The "Y" splitter like on the "Hop Missile" (a Chinese rip-off of the Blichmann Hop Rocket) with two filler tubes does the same job - i.e. fill two or more cubes without interuption (I brew 45/65L batches). The air vents (blue pipes here) are needed because the cubes are filled while sealed. Needs a pump on the boiler (if it's an impeller pump the cubes simply stop filling when full ... they can't overflow).

The "Hop Missile" replaces the purpose of "whirlpool" and "steep" hops (which you can't use with no-chill cubes 'cos the cubes must be filled straight after the boil).



Now @MashBag's reminded me, I'm just off down the tablet Chemist for a resupply.
 

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