Newbie help

[johnnie]

Hi all, i'm new to brewing and need some help with my first attempt. I followed the kit instructions and everything seemed ok for the first few days and a nice froth formed on the surface. After that things slowed down but it's still bubbling after 14 days. I've put it in the boiler cupboard so the temp keeps fluctuating. Will it just take longer because of the temp, and will it still be safe to drink after such a long time?

 

[Sean_Mc]

Hi johnnie and welcome to the forum :

What are you brewing?

Best thing to go by is the hydrometer, airlocks can bubble with different atmospheric pressure.
If you ferment at cooler temps it will take longer, the ideal range is 18c-21c for a bitter, but much cooler for lagers.

 

[johnnie]

It's a Youngs bitter, probably not the best but it was a christmas present so I can't complain. The kit said it would take 4-6 days to ferment and it shouldn't be bottled/kegged until the hydrometer reads 1.000 to 1.006. It's been 1.016 for 3 days but today it reads 1.014

 

[Sean_Mc]

1014 sounds good, but have you taken into account the temp of the wort. Hydrometers are usually calibrated for 15c or 20c, have read of THIS

The beer will be okay, but you need a steady reading for three days under 1015 before you bottle/keg.

There's no rush to bottle it and it will be better for leaving longer.

What you doing bottling or kegging?

 

[johnnie]

Thanks for your help. I didn't have a thermometer and was just guessing. I've got one now and the temp was way too low so I've bought a heater and things seen to be happening a lot quicker now.

 

[luckyeddie]

My fermenters are now always kept in the lounge at this time of year - it makes a great conversation piece when there's a ferocious Belgian beer on day 3 of its fermentation cycle glooping through the airlock every 2 or 3 seconds. It doesn't really bother me - but then again, I'm deaf.

Regarding Young's kits, I've always found them very temperature-sensitive. The yeasties would rattle along for 3 or 4 days then put their brakes on. I would usually move the fermenter in front of the gas fire (and turn it every 2 or 3 minutes) until it got to 22 or 23 degrees, then back behind the sofa with it.

The last time I got a 'stuck' fermentation I came up with a novel solution. I had 'cultivated' a yeast in a coke bottle - the yeast started life in a Brewferm Diablo kit so was ultra-aggressive. I whacked it into the stuck brew, gave it a stir and the next day you could almost hear it screaming "Give me sugar" through the airlock.

It totally changed (improved) the characteristics of the beer too.

 

[teabicky]

I have had almost exactly the same trouble with harvest beer. I contacted young, who sent me this reply....

Good morning Rich,

'Primary' fermentation normally is complete within 5-10 days. It is important that you do not transfer into bottles or barrel before the SG is below 1.006. If the beer is put into bottles there is a risk that they would explode. With a barrel there is the added safety of the Pressure Release Valve but you still should not transfer too early.

Why the SG has stuck?? Initially check that the hydrometer is reading correctly. Test it using water from the tap. The SG of water should read 1.000.
If it is then the reading of the beer is correct.

Did you put the correct amount of sugar in?
Where did you put the bucket? it should be kept warm but not too hot and where the temperature remains fairly constant.

You could try adding some more yeast to trey and get it going again.

John Smith

 

[johnnie]

I think it's day 18 now. The hydrometer is reading 1006 now but it still seems to be bubbling a little. I'll leave it for a few more days and test again.