New brew fridge

[Aphid]

Aphid these are what I use

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1ft-Tubul...286327?hash=item1e8343ef37:g:MokAAMXQqBxRHiOI

brewed a saison at a steady 28deg no problem

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-S...637422?hash=item419f6da5ae:g:1c4AAOSwQoFWOZhU

gone up a couple of quid since I bought mine !

Thanks for the links. The cheapest I have seen the STC-1000 is for �£10.99 with free delivery. The 60W heater is clearly sufficient for you with an under counter fridge. A post above suggests it might struggle with larger fridges?

 

[neal]

Thanks for the links. The cheapest I have seen the STC-1000 is for ��£10.99 with free delivery. The 60W heater is clearly sufficient for you with an under counter fridge. A post above suggests it might struggle with larger fridges?

I doubt it would struggle, guess it would be on more to compensate, but as they are well insulated they keep a pretty even temp unless you keep opening the door! I am on the lookout for a larger fridge or chest freezer to take more brews,so I'd probably get a larger one then

 

[Aphid]

I doubt it would struggle, guess it would be on more to compensate, but as they are well insulated they keep a pretty even temp unless you keep opening the door! I am on the lookout for a larger fridge or chest freezer to take more brews,so I'd probably get a larger one then

...as the empire expands! :-D
I have a lot of catching up to do to reach where you are now but looking forward to doing so and enjoying each small step forwards. The help and advice on the forum has been excellent and I have learned a lot in a very short time.

 

[DoctorMick]

Thanks for the links. The cheapest I have seen the STC-1000 is for �£10.99 with free delivery. The 60W heater is clearly sufficient for you with an under counter fridge. A post above suggests it might struggle with larger fridges?

I wouldn't bother with an stc-1000 given the prices on the inkbirds, they're well priced and you need to do less which, for me, is always a winner.

 

[neal]

I wouldn't bother with an stc-1000 given the prices on the inkbirds, they're well priced and you need to do less which, for me, is always a winner.

when and if mine packs up or I build another fridge I'll be going inkbird :wink:

 

[Soton]

Remember that if you get the right STC-1000 it can be flashed to make it do even more great things, like getting it to control the fermenting then going straight into largering without having to fiddle around with daily temperature adjustments
I have flashed a couple and it's a piece of cake, and all you need to know how to do it can be found online
The link below will give you more info on flashing a STC 1000, remember there is only one type of STC 1000 that can be flashed
https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p
And the link below is to a YouTube video of how to program a flashed STC 1000
[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nZst7ETP-w8[/ame]

 

[foxbat]

Would a 60W heater be sufficient for an under counter fridge? What wattage heater do you now use, please?

60W is way too much to use with a simplistic on/off controller like the STC-1000.

When I first set mine up I used one of those 60W white tubular greenhouse heaters that you can get on ebay. The problem is gross overshoot of more than 2C past the target temperature because the heater bar stays hot for a long time after the power is cut, and yes I have a 12V fan in there to eliminate hot-spots.

I've now switched to a black 25W ceramic heating bulb mounted in a socket screwed to a wooden board (search ebay for "25w ceramic heater bulb"). It easily heats up to target temperature but the smaller size means that overshoot is limited to 1.3C. Much better.

I was thinking of switching again to a 5W heat mat but instead I think I'll go to a brewpi based setup because that system can do PID control on the heating element to avoid overshoot almost entirely.

 

[Aphid]

60W is way too much to use with a simplistic on/off controller like the STC-1000.

When I first set mine up I used one of those 60W white tubular greenhouse heaters that you can get on ebay. The problem is gross overshoot of more than 2C past the target temperature because the heater bar stays hot for a long time after the power is cut, and yes I have a 12V fan in there to eliminate hot-spots.

I've now switched to a black 25W ceramic heating bulb mounted in a socket screwed to a wooden board (search ebay for "25w ceramic heater bulb"). It easily heats up to target temperature but the smaller size means that overshoot is limited to 1.3C. Much better.

I was thinking of switching again to a 5W heat mat but instead I think I'll go to a brewpi based setup because that system can do PID control on the heating element to avoid overshoot almost entirely.

That's interesting to read. Thanks. The consensus in earlier posts suggests that 60W is quite the standard for smaller fridges, greater for larger ones. Not having set up a brew fridge yet - hence me seeking advice - I can only read and learn from those who have. It will be interesting to see what others say. Is a 25W heater enough? Do others experience over heating using a 60W heater in the way you describe?

 

[pms67]

60W is way too much to use with a simplistic on/off controller like the STC-1000.

When I first set mine up I used one of those 60W white tubular greenhouse heaters that you can get on ebay. The problem is gross overshoot of more than 2C past the target temperature because the heater bar stays hot for a long time after the power is cut, and yes I have a 12V fan in there to eliminate hot-spots.

I've now switched to a black 25W ceramic heating bulb mounted in a socket screwed to a wooden board (search ebay for "25w ceramic heater bulb"). It easily heats up to target temperature but the smaller size means that overshoot is limited to 1.3C. Much better.

I was thinking of switching again to a 5W heat mat but instead I think I'll go to a brewpi based setup because that system can do PID control on the heating element to avoid overshoot almost entirely.

This is surprising to me,60w is nothing i would have thought and most have thermostatic control as well

 

[foxbat]

That's interesting to read. Thanks. The consensus in earlier posts suggests that 60W is quite the standard for smaller fridges, greater for larger ones. Not having set up a brew fridge yet - hence me seeking advice - I can only read and learn from those who have. It will be interesting to see what others say. Is a 25W heater enough? Do others experience over heating using a 60W heater in the way you describe?

I bought the 60W greenhouse heater bar as well because others were using it. I should add that I'm measuring ambient temperature in the air next to the FV because I don't yet have a thermowell - that's something that I'll add when I move to the brewpi.

In a small closed and insulated space 25W is more than enough, enough to burn your skin if you touch the bulb. When it's on the STC-1000 ticks up at about 0.1C every 5 secs.

 

[Bigjas]

I'll add my experience here. I have two fridges, both controlled by Inkbird 308 and both have a 45w tube heater in them. One is an under counter fridge and the other is a larder fridge. The under counter fridge is used for fermenting at 20*c in my garage, and has no problem maintaining a steady temperature even when the temps in the garage drop to just above freezing. The larder fridge is used for serving at 12*c and again, I have no issues with the heater or controller. I also just let the probe hang in open air inside and do not have any fans. I don't have problems with the controller overshooting or constantly cycling from heating to cooling.

Jas

 

[johnnyboy1965]

Would a 60W heater be sufficient for an under counter fridge? What wattage heater do you now use, please?

A 60W would be suitable for a under counter fridge.
I now use a cheap desk top fan heater (£10.00 B and Q) see 3 posts up and a plug in digital thermostatic controller (£9.00) on line...no need for plug in sensors etc

 

[johnnyboy1965]

The main trouble with greenhouse heaters, is that the continue to give of heat after the temp sensor cuts in and turns it off...They are very difficult to maintain a accurate constant temp. After a few days they do level out, but as soon as you open the door you have to start the cycle all over again. the advantage of a desk top heater fan is that they are much easier to control.
With my set up once the cabinet temp is correct the digital thermostat kicks in and turns the power off to the fan.

 

[Dutto]

I use this 40W heater and so far it has been more than adequate for the under-counter fridge I have ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LPHIMW0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

... the temperature control knob is invaluable in the summer.

I wish I had some of the skills exhibited on this Forum but the two sockets for the Inkbird STC1000 don't have to be in a box; as demonstrated by the photograph.

With regard to adjusting the "lag time" for the fridge it's explained in the little manual that comes with it. i.e. You are able to delay the compressor of the fridge from starting which in turn allows the temperature from the heater to fall off and thereby negate the need for the fridge to start up if it isn't required. (Hard to explain but easy to demonstrate so I recommend that you play around with it.)

Enjoy! :thumb:

 

[Aphid]

A 60W would be suitable for a under counter fridge.
I now use a cheap desk top fan heater (�£10.00 B and Q) see 3 posts up and a plug in digital thermostatic controller (�£9.00) on line...no need for plug in sensors etc

Thanks for sharing. I was reading about your fan. Certainly an original alternative.

 

[Aphid]

I'll add my experience here. I have two fridges, both controlled by Inkbird 308 and both have a 45w tube heater in them. One is an under counter fridge and the other is a larder fridge. The under counter fridge is used for fermenting at 20*c in my garage, and has no problem maintaining a steady temperature even when the temps in the garage drop to just above freezing. The larder fridge is used for serving at 12*c and again, I have no issues with the heater or controller. I also just let the probe hang in open air inside and do not have any fans. I don't have problems with the controller overshooting or constantly cycling from heating to cooling.

Jas

So from your own experience maybe 45W is perfectly adequate rather than the 60W heater typically used by others....even in a much larger larder fridge. Do you think this has alleviated the cycling and overheating issues?

 

[Bigjas]

So from your own experience maybe 45W is perfectly adequate rather than the 60W heater typically used by others....even in a much larger larder fridge. Do you think this has alleviated the cycling and overheating issues?

Yes, in my experience 45w tube heaters work well. I got mine from Amazon at the same time I bought the Inkbird controller. In my larder fridge, I haven't tried fermenting so not had to warm it up past 12°c, but would of thought it would work ok. I think the fact it is only 45w helps with the overshooting problem? I just set the Inkbird up with +/- 1°c and it seems ok.

Here is my larder fridge, the heater is at the bottom under the shelf. You can see the probe wire on the right and it just dangles about half way down in the open air.

 

[Fil]

The main trouble with greenhouse heaters, is that the continue to give of heat after the temp sensor cuts in and turns it off...They are very difficult to maintain a accurate constant temp. After a few days they do level out, but as soon as you open the door you have to start the cycle all over again. the advantage of a desk top heater fan is that they are much easier to control.
With my set up once the cabinet temp is correct the digital thermostat kicks in and turns the power off to the fan.

To counter this employ a fan to move the air over both the heat and cooling radiant surfaces, this will increase the efficiency of transfer of heat and minimise the over/under shooting of target temperatures.

Fwiw i use an older less sophisticated ATC800+ controller with only 2 parameters to set,
1) the target temp, and
2) Diff, the difference off target that either input is triggered.

I have found when changing the temp of a 5 gallon brew for a crash chill or diactyl rest its wise to set the diff large, 3 or 4 degrees C which evades the risk of the system chassing itself, and resetting to a smaller 0.5C trigger difference when the new target temp is reached.

 

[BeerCat]

Has anyone tried using a reptile heat mat instead of the greenhouse heaters? Just curious as i am experimenting with them at the moment. Have a Lager on the go in the garage and its keeping a stable 12c.

 

[Aphid]

Thanks for comments about temperature controller and heater type in earlier posts - very helpful. Clearly the type of fridge is significant when deciding heater capacity. Tomorrow I am picking up a larder fridge that I bought on Gumtree so I can finally start to put together my brew fridge.
I have decided to opt for an Inkbird ITC-308 or the ITC-308s. Apart from the latter being £6-£7 more expensive it has the advantage of a detachable and longer temperature probe but whether or not this is important I don't know. Any thoughts, please?
I have also decided to go for a greenhouse heater. Opinions on the most appropriate 'size' varied - 25W, 45W, 60W and even higher - but part of that was influenced by fridge size - under counter as opposed to larder fridge. As a result, this is my biggest dilemma and I don't want to get it wrong. For my larder fridge, overheating and cycling issues taken into account, what should I get?