My first brew!

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Hi gents

Ok so I pitched a second batch of yeast in, this one activated with some of the wort likethe previous posted suggested.

The gravity on the hydrometer has been static now at a shade over 1010. It has been like this for the last week at least - is it done for?

Apologies for the newbie questions, I appreciate I'm being a bit naive here...@ :cry:
 
But give it a few more days and then move on to bottling or whatever Remember you must NOT NOT NOT sneak a taste when bottling










:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :P only joking.
 
Thanks gents well I've kegged it so we'll see how it goes.

Just had a sneak taste and it tastes bloody good - surprisingly so!! :cheers:

I've added 40 tsps of sugar like the instructions said, and have given it a quick swill to dissolve. How long should I condition it for? Also, I've got a gas valve on top of the keg and have some bulbs - when should I used these? I'm not fussy about it being fizzy, so do I need to use it at all?
 
gah - sorry another question - it's regarding my valves.

Please see my pics below:

20120808170342.jpg





This is how I have set the keg as the beer keeps dribbling through the white valve at the top of the barrell in the pic. How can I stop this?


I think it's to do with the pressure as when I unsrew the pressure release valve gas is released and the dribbling subsides slightly .

Is the pressure release valve (by which I mean the valve on it's side in the pic which I think is supposed to be facing upright?) buggered or have I not done something correctly?
 
You'll find there are a few threads about that type of barrel leaking throug the tap seal :(

I was lucky, mine was a good seal.

The process to fix it seems to be to put it on its back (you've done that bit ;) ) and remove the tap, treat the seal with vaseline and screw the tap back in, but don't over due the tightening, if you squash the seal too much it wont seal, just make sure it's nice and snug.

You shouldn't need to use a bulb for a few pints as long as it does a decent secondary ferment (it is, but it'll lose pressure when you fix the tap). So don't add gas from a bulb until the beer stops running freely out the tap, when it slows right down you've got a slight vacuum in the keg, that's the time to top it up with a bulb.

You'll find the S30 option is cheaper in the long run if you are looking to buy a new keg in future, also the taps on king kegs and roto kegs seem to be a little more beer tight :D
 
TRXnMe said:
You'll find there are a few threads about that type of barrel leaking throug the tap seal :(

I was lucky, mine was a good seal.

The process to fix it seems to be to put it on its back (you've done that bit ;) ) and remove the tap, treat the seal with vaseline and screw the tap back in, but don't over due the tightening, if you squash the seal too much it wont seal, just make sure it's nice and snug.

You shouldn't need to use a bulb for a few pints as long as it does a decent secondary ferment (it is, but it'll lose pressure when you fix the tap). So don't add gas from a bulb until the beer stops running freely out the tap, when it slows right down you've got a slight vacuum in the keg, that's the time to top it up with a bulb.

You'll find the S30 option is cheaper in the long run if you are looking to buy a new keg in future, also the taps on king kegs and roto kegs seem to be a little more beer tight :D

fantastic, cheers for the advice mate :)
 
Belter said:
You don't need it with that kit. Also everything I've read points to isinglass being a commercial brewery option for fining. Not for the standard homebrewer? Sounds to me

Nothing wrong with using isinglass, i use it on most brews. nothing wrong with high standards, I think I might as well get as much yeast out of suspension before bottling or kegging so there is less sediment in with the finished beer.
 

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