My Electric Brewery - Part 4, HERMS Pot Reconfiguration

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chastuck

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Bromley
I previously posted on the Forum the construction of my first HERMS pot, made from a second-hand 10L Baby Burco that I purchased for the grand sum of £6.50 on Ebay. Here’s the construction link: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=43400. I’ve used it twice in brews and it worked well, but now was the time to make it more compatible with my Electric Brewery build. Originally, I used brass hozelock type quick connectors for the wort input and output. The exchange coil was attached to these connectors with plastic John Guest fittings. I decided that these two items in particular needed reworking to be more suitable with my new shiny set up. I have changed the JG fittings to SS cone seat unions. As well as being more robust, it means I can still remove the exchange coil completely for sterilising in the oven. Instead of hose fittings for the wort input and output, I have changed these to stainless steel mini ½” BSP ball valves with camlocks. In addition, the output ball valve has a temperature probe T piece for connection to the PID in the Electric Brewery Control Panel. Once all the hoses and probe are connected, raising the lid to check the water level in the pot could be difficult, so I have fixed a sight glass on the side. The bottom connection of the sight glass uses a 1/2” x 3/8” x 1/2” Tee and inserted into it is another PT100 temperature probe for additional flexibility if needed. As a backup to any temperature probe and PID connections, I have added a dial thermometer. In case I want to use the pot independently of my Electric Brewery, I have also fitted a ½” mini ball valve at the top of the pot for filling and possible recirculation purposes. Finally, the old Burco lever tap has now been replaced with a ½” ball valve with a dip tube. The pictures below show the outside and inside of the reconfigured HERMS pot.

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