It's revenge of the nerds, baby!Oh my god, look at you saddo's with your charts and tables!
(Admit it, a part of you is just a teensy bit jealous )
It's revenge of the nerds, baby!Oh my god, look at you saddo's with your charts and tables!
AG#24 Oatmeal Stout
Recipe from "Beer Craft" by Jon Finch, adapted for my scale and process.....
2430g Golden Promise
310g Flaked Barley
310g Flaked Oats
275g Medium Crystal
275g Chocolate Malt
(I was a little short on chocolate malt so I added 27g Carafa 3 to make up the difference)
Full volume mash 30mins using 15L water
30min boil
55g East Kent Goldings 4% AAU for 30mins (41.5 IBU's)
Cool to 20degC and pitch Wyeast 1318
OG 1.056
I'm still liking my revamped process - the combination of my new tea urn HLT + 30min full volume mash + 30 min boil is so much quicker. However, these changes mean all my usual numbers and rules of thumb for efficiency etc go out the window and I'm effectively starting from scratch.
I expect efficiency to be lower than before with a full volume mash but it really took a nosedive today - I'm annoyed with myself because I should know this. From previous experience, flaked oats needs a mash rest at 50degC or the mash goes all gluey and you can't squeeze the bag (or I imagine you risk a stuck sparge). I just mashed at 65 and so lost a load of liquor absorbed in the grain - doh!
As with recent brews, post boil and cooling I left it to settle so the crud would fall to the bottom so I could syphon the clear wort to the FV - except today. I thought I'd see if I could syphon the crud out from under the clear wort. In short I couldn't and I ended up wasting a bunch of time sorting that out. Oh well, you live and learn.
Don,t despair Matt today I did the same I did a witbier type brew with 500g of oats and 500g of shreddie's orange and lemon zest and 10g of cracked coriander, I had 23L in the kettle would it come out no chance, I finished up sanitising my hand and arm to lift the plate out it was solid what a mess, I still had to keep running my hand along the bakooka I got it out it's settled in the fv so I imagine I will lose some when it's fermented, I used a new yeast for me MJ M21 the guy in the shop gave a book on all their yeast and what to brew with them, next week I am getting a shed load of muslin bags onwards and upwards hope your brew turns out goodAG#24 Oatmeal Stout
Recipe from "Beer Craft" by Jon Finch, adapted for my scale and process.....
2430g Golden Promise
310g Flaked Barley
310g Flaked Oats
275g Medium Crystal
275g Chocolate Malt
(I was a little short on chocolate malt so I added 27g Carafa 3 to make up the difference)
Full volume mash 30mins using 15L water
30min boil
55g East Kent Goldings 4% AAU for 30mins (41.5 IBU's)
Cool to 20degC and pitch Wyeast 1318
OG 1.056
I'm still liking my revamped process - the combination of my new tea urn HLT + 30min full volume mash + 30 min boil is so much quicker. However, these changes mean all my usual numbers and rules of thumb for efficiency etc go out the window and I'm effectively starting from scratch.
I expect efficiency to be lower than before with a full volume mash but it really took a nosedive today - I'm annoyed with myself because I should know this. From previous experience, flaked oats needs a mash rest at 50degC or the mash goes all gluey and you can't squeeze the bag (or I imagine you risk a stuck sparge). I just mashed at 65 and so lost a load of liquor absorbed in the grain - doh!
As with recent brews, post boil and cooling I left it to settle so the crud would fall to the bottom so I could syphon the clear wort to the FV - except today. I thought I'd see if I could syphon the crud out from under the clear wort. In short I couldn't and I ended up wasting a bunch of time sorting that out. Oh well, you live and learn.
Thanks @MyQul , and you too @Rodcx500z , for your words of encouragement, much appreciatedThing is, if you dont try stuff out you wont come across that technique (what ever it may be) that really works for you. Sometimes you'll **** out, like you did today and whatever you're trying wont work. But other times you'll stumble across something that really works for you're set up. It's all about trial and error
That's the spirit opp's no pun intendedThanks @MyQul , and you too @Rodcx500z , for your words of encouragement, much appreciated
You're damn right, we get it a bit wrong, we have an opportunity to learn and improve.
The facts are, i ended up spending a little longer cleaning up, I will more than likely end up with some beer at the end (ok, maybe a few pints less than ideal, but meh) and I'm sitting here enjoying some of my previous brews just as I would have been if everything had gone perfectly.
So all in all there are worse problems to have
Cheers,
Matt
Thanks @MyQul , and you too @Rodcx500z , for your words of encouragement, much appreciated
You're damn right, we get it a bit wrong, we have an opportunity to learn and improve.
The facts are, i ended up spending a little longer cleaning up, I will more than likely end up with some beer at the end (ok, maybe a few pints less than ideal, but meh) and I'm sitting here enjoying some of my previous brews just as I would have been if everything had gone perfectly.
So all in all there are worse problems to have
Cheers,
Matt
Yep, agreed with that.It's actually REALLY hard not to end up with some sort of beer if you follow the basic steps of mash, boil, ferment. As I always say, beer WANTS to be made
I've taken to keeping the wort extracted from the crud at the bottom of the kettle, freezing it, then using it for starters further down the line. Saves on DME.
Heh heh... It's still in the FV, will be for another week or two yet. I had to move FV out of the water bath to make room for the stout so it's a couple of degrees warmer but it'll be fine.I need an update on AG#23 Bitsa SCA
Out of interest. Whats your process for not getting chill haze? Are you somehow partially no-chilling or something?
I think the issue previously was that I transferred everything to the FV, including the cold break material responsible for chill haze. This is the first batch where I've tried this method so jury is still out but fingers crossed - I've two more batches in the FV that used this method so should have a better idea soon (except one is a stout where clarity is rather hard to judge! )
- After the boil I chill with an immersion chiller to 20degC
- Then I put the lid on the kettle and leave it for >3 hours to let the crud settle out.
- Then syphon the crystal clear wort to the FV, leaving the crud behind.
- I also transfer the crud to sanitised bottles - once it's settled out again it seems I can reclaim another 2L or so of clear wort.
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