Made my fermentation chamber today.

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Andybiker

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thought I'd post some for pics for anyone who.may like a look-see.

The whole shebang probably cost me under 40 quid including the price of a used ebay fridge (£5) wink...

Had a load of MDF knocking about so I knocked up a box with sockets for the STC-1000 and bought a tube heater.

No drain hole in the fridge surprisingly so had to drill it and pack with silicone.

Anyway here is is.

Covered the bottom of the shelf with aluminium tape I had to try to minimise the heat directly on the bottom of the FV.

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Quick question though, if I want to use it for crashing too, will low temps damage the tube heater (I guess 2 - 4 degrees)

Also what do you guys normally set your temp difference at? 1 degree, 0.5 degree? Just wondering where to start.

Thanks.
 
I can't help you on the tube heater, I use a lightbulb in an old pan.

As for temp difference, I tried 1degree but it was too great a temperature swing. Go for 0.5 degrees.

When trying to keep temperature for fermentation, tape the temperature probe to the side of the FV, preferably inside something insulating like a wad of foam packing. When cold crashing or keeping warm for conditioning, let the probe measure the ambient temperature inside the fridge rather than being taped to the FV.
 
Here’s mine, it’s a bit unorthodox but I got it free! It’s a pub Husky with a Celex insulated top hat. I use an Inkbird and a tube heater.

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Quick question though, if I want to use it for crashing too, will low temps damage the tube heater (I guess 2 - 4 degrees)
It'll be fine. Those tube heaters are used a lot to keep things like pipes from freezing so can sit at just over zero for long periods.
 
Make sure you add a fan or some way to circulate the air inside the chamber. One of my mates didn’t and ended up with the fermenter in the top of his fridge fermenting at 28’C whilst the one on the lower shelf (which had the probe on) was sat happily at 18’C.

Even if you’re only running one fermenter it will still lead to a much hotter top of your chamber.
 
When Cold Crashing I remove the plug from the "Heater" side of the Inkbird and the Tube Heater is still working after about four or five years!

BTW, it looks great!
 
Thanks guys. Maybe I should add a fan.

Do I just mount it at the top pointing straight down?
 
More out if the fact I like making stuff than possibly necessity.

However I cant add it to the roof of the fridge because I cant move the chilling element.

I suppose mounting it to the back of the fridge below the element point forwards towards the door would work?

Anyone put it there?

Thanks.
 
Thanks mate.

Its not an Inkbird. I bought the control unit from Amazon here its an STC-1000 it does the same job as an Inkbird but you have to add the sockets or hardwire it yourself.

Its easy to do. Just look on YouTube how to wire it.

I had a load of old MDF knocking about so made my own box, but for a prettier more compact solution you can buy small electrical project boxes and use external extension lead sockets like an inkbird.

Since the above post I have removed the fridge thermostat to give me more room inside. The STC controls the temp now so the fridge's own thermostat is surplus to requirements and just takes up valuable space.
 
One thing to add fella make sure you buy the 240v one. They do a 12v one too which looks the same but won't work on mains.
 
Looks like a professional job! I use an stc1000 without a fan and I can fit two 25L FVs in mine. Never had a problem. I have just taped the heating tube to the inside of the door. I am lazy, but again it works fine. I do use a brew belt as well as the heat tube in winter. Temp drops off in the garage otherwise. I set the diff to 0.5C too.
 
Its not an Inkbird. I bought the control unit from Amazon here its an STC-1000 it does the same job as an Inkbird but you have to add the sockets or hardwire it yourself.
I made my own with a project box etc and it actually cost more than an Inkbird does, I won an Inkbird on this forum and using it in my kegerator, nice bit of kit.
 
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