200 gms would be great. Neck Oil requires close to 700 gms
No way is Neck Oil 35g/l - that's just someone who doesn't know what they're doing, thinking that the answer is always MOOORRRRRR HOPPPPPZZZZZZ!
The original Punk IPA used ~6g/l in the copper with no dry hopping,
Pliny the Elder is 6g/l copper and 4g/l dry-hop, a lot of the early NEIPAs were around 12-15g/l, current Punk and Born To Die are 5g/l in the copper and 10g/l dry-hop,
the original Cloudwater DIPA was 8g/l in the copper and 10g/l although
their most recent ones use 8g/l copper and 24g/l dry-hop. Have look through
Brewdog's homebrew recipes to get more ideas on how much they use.
But it's worth emphasising that commercial brewers are only able to get away with 15+g/l dry hops because they're using technology like centrifuges to clean things up so that they don't make hop soup. OTOH, they tend to get a bit more efficiency and can use things like CO2 rousing to maximise extraction.
I'd also point you to the
Lafontaine & Shellhammer 2018 paper (summarised in more user-friendly form
at Pat's Pints) where they found that the extraction of hop oils saturates above 8g/l Cascade and the "good", citrus flavours saturate at 4g/l and going above that emphasises the herbal compounds :
"
Adding more hops by static dry-hopping does not simply lead to increased aroma intensity but also changes aroma quality in the finished beer. Dry-hopping rates >8 g/L lead to hop aromas that were more herbal/tea in quality than citrus. To maintain a more balanced hop aroma quality this study suggests using a static dry-hopping rate between 4 and 8 g/L."
Now that only applies to the particular system they used, which didn't use agitation and used Cascade, which primarily relies on terpenols for its flavour. One can imagine that more recent hops that depend on thiols might have a higher threshold. But it's still pause for thought.
There is some scope to use cheaper hops, particularly in the boil/whirlpool but you can't really get away from using "fancy" hops for at least some of it. It's complicated for homebrewers given the markups on small packets of hops and the desirability of not wanting to have too many packets of hops open for too long. So you may be better off just getting a bigger pack of fancy hops and using them in 50g/100g increments per brew.
But Bravo in particular is a useful variety for cheap "terpenoling" (by analogy with "bittering") at flameout/whirlpool (and can be used for bittering as well), and the likes of Calypso, Southern Cross, CTZ, Apollo etc are cheaper hops that can play a useful supporting role - as it happens Bravo and Calypso are both found in Gamma Ray.
There's some fun things that yeast can do to hop flavours via biotransformation, but if you're just wanting hop "volume" then it's best to dry-hop after fermentation is finished so that you don't lose aroma as CO2 blows it off. Typically people are now cool/cold crashing to drop the yeast and then dry-hopping pellets for no more than 48h or so. If you want to learn more about dry-hopping, read
Scott Janish's guide - and his New IPA book is also worth getting if you want to optimise your use of hops.
The grist of these kinds of beers are generally pretty simple, either pale or extra pale or a blend of the two, sometimes with a little (<5%) caramalt as a nod to the US origins of the style. And BU:GU ratios typically of 0.8-1.0.
Neck Oil is 4.3%, 35IBU and 100% Extra Pale so we'll use that as a base for 20 litres of "Pennypincher's Pale"
Water - 25 litres pre-boil, depends how bitter you like it, maybe 100:200ppm chloride:sulphate or even higher if you like crisper bitterness, reverse that for a bit softer.
1.043 Extra Pale wort (eg 4kg Extra Pale grain at 75% efficiency *OR* 2.5kg Munton's Extra Light DME)
30 IBU bittering (eg 15g of 15.5% Bravo at 60 minutes, or recycle old dry hops)
10 min Protafloc/Irish moss etc per instructions
10 min 15g Bravo
0 min 15g Bravo
0 min 30g Calypso (or one of the others mentioned above, or eg Mosaic if you're feeling rich!)
80°C whirlpool 20g Calypso (or other)
80°C whirlpool 20g Bravo
80°C whirlpool 30g Citra
Once cold, pitch BRY-97 or US-05 or CML Five - no need to rehydrate. Or Sierra Nevada dregs, WLP001/090, Wyeast 1056/1217, WHC Ubbe - anything clean.
If you have the capability to control temps, you want to ferment at say 18°C for the first few days, then take it up to 21°C.
Once it's done (7 days or less?) then cool/cold crash (garage/fridge) overnight or more and then dry-hop with 70g Citra pellets at 14°C or less.
Package after 48h.
Note - I've never made this, but it should give you something in the ballpark of what you're looking for, at a cost of £1/litre or less.
![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
.
