Kegerator fridge help!

[Beersort]

So I built my kegerator last weekend. Turned it on straight away (dumb idea I know) and it wouldn’t cool to a decent temp (gets down to around 15.5c)

I’ve turned it off and won’t turn it back on in 24 hours. Will this get the fridge cooling? Or have I totally buggered the fridge? Cheers!

 

[foxbat]

Did the fridge work before you modified it and what were your modifications?

 

[Beersort]

Did the fridge work before you modified it and what were your modifications?

Didn’t test if I’m honest. The light still works and you can the fridge trying to work. It’s getting cool but not cool enough!

Drilled a hole for gas and two for the taps. Nothing too much.

 

[Dutto]

A compressor type of fridge MAY be buggered if you have let liquid refrigerant flow into the compressor and then started it up. (Liquids aren't compressible so the compressor tries to compress the liquid, the seals blow out, the refrigerant escapes and the fridge doesn't work.)

If it's a compressor type fridge then leaving it UPRIGHT for 24 hours may do the trick IF the refrigerant is still there.

An absorption fridge (like those found in many caravans and boats) require all the components (ammonia, water and hydrogen) to be in the right place as well.

As a general rule moving them about won't lose the refrigerant but they need to settle before they can perform. Again, leaving them for 24 hours will allow the components to settle out okay and is recommended.

However, an absorption fridge must not only be UPRIGHT it is also has to be LEVEL as an inclination of about 5* will stop it working properly.

Enjoy and pray!!

 

[Beersort]

A compressor type of fridge MAY be buggered if you have let liquid refrigerant flow into the compressor and then started it up. (Liquids aren't compressible so the compressor tries to compress the liquid, the seals blow out, the refrigerant escapes and the fridge doesn't work.)

If it's a compressor type fridge then leaving it UPRIGHT for 24 hours may do the trick IF the refrigerant is still there.

An absorption fridge (like those found in many caravans and boats) require all the components (ammonia, water and hydrogen) to be in the right place as well.

As a general rule moving them about won't lose the refrigerant but they need to settle before they can perform. Again, leaving them for 24 hours will allow the components to settle out okay and is recommended.

However, an absorption fridge must not only be UPRIGHT it is also has to be LEVEL as an inclination of about 5* will stop it working properly.

Enjoy and pray!!

Many thanks for the detailed explanation - I’m holding out hope as it is cooling a little bit - I’m assuming I just didn’t leave it long enough to settle which is why it’s not working at full whack. Hopefully turning it back on keeping it on the lowest setting will get it going!

 

[BeerCat]

To be honest I turned mine on straight away and they were fine. I forgot they are meant to stand 24 hours.

 

[Dutto]

To be honest I turned mine on straight away and they were fine. I forgot they are meant to stand 24 hours.

It's called "Luck!"

 

[Beersort]

So it’s still only chilling down to 15 degrees or so. I mean the kegs feel cold - if it’s still not cold enough what’s the next best option? Inkbird?

 

[BeerCat]

Bypass the thermostat and if that works connect an inkbird to it. It's fairly straightforward and you have nothing to lose.

 

[Beersort]

Bypass the thermostat and if that works connect an inkbird to it. It's fairly straightforward and you have nothing to lose.

Dummy here - how do you bypass the thermostat?

 

[Justin Dean]

That is my question too , remove completely or take out the thermostat and reconnect the three wires that feed it together?

 

[Dutto]

After a 48 hour test period (i.e. with an independent thermometer):

1. If the fridge is not cooling enough and the compressor is running continuously then the most probable cause is a shortage of refrigerant.
2. If the fridge is not cooling enough and the compressor is starting and stopping than the most probable cause is a faulty thermostat.

Personally, I very rarely use the "cooling" part of the fridge as I live in the UK where the average temperature is well below 20*C for most of the year!

 

[Darenn]

That is my question too , remove completely or take out the thermostat and reconnect the three wires that feed it together?

The third wire could be an earth wire, so connecting all three together could result in a flash and some smoke! Generally, there is a live feed, and a return to the compressor - in my experience the brown and black wires. Green/green-yellow is normally earth, and blue is normally neutral. Most fridges have a small wiring diagram attached that may be able to shed some light.

 

[Justin Dean]

ii removed the thermostat and threw it away and isolated all the wires so they are not connected to each other at all and figured the fridge would go as cold as it could when it is on but governed by the pid controller i plugged it into to, The compressor hums away...so maybe it is fine

 

[Dutto]

.......... The compressor hums away...so maybe it is fine

Now all you have to hope for is that the temperature drops to somewhere at or below 10*C and that the compressor stops humming. If that happens you have a winner!

Good luck!

BTW, with regard to the Inkbird, I have a 2 minute delay on the compressor and a 1*C bandwidth on the Controller.

This allows me a quick "Open and Close" on the door without the Controller kicking in. i.e. the temperature tends to rise a little when the door is opened but then falls back when the door is closed, hopefully before the Controller starts the compressor. It also stops the Controller from "hunting". i.e. where it tries and fails to maintain a steady temperature.

 

[Ian Blackburn]

On a slightly different note, but still under kegerator help, does anyone know if I can get a quick release male / female connector so that I can easily disconnect the gas bottle from the kegerator (mine is too big to fit inside the fridge). Ideally something I can fix to the back of the fridge and just plug the bottle into. Thanks

 

[Dutto]

I use these ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/continenta...as+connector&qid=1560088443&s=gateway&sr=8-19

I've used them on the caravan and motorhome for years and they have never leaked LPG. I figured that they must also be good for CO2 and I haven't been disappointed!

BTW, make sure that the "female" connector is the one in CO2 service. That way, you can use a "Y" fitting in the knowledge that you can connect and disconnect whatever the "male" is connected to and the CO2 won't leak away.

 

[Darenn]

I use these ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/continenta...as+connector&qid=1560088443&s=gateway&sr=8-19

I've used them on the caravan and motorhome for years and they have never leaked LPG. I figured that they must also be good for CO2 and I haven't been disappointed!

BTW, make sure that the "female" connector is the one in CO2 service. That way, you can use a "Y" fitting in the knowledge that you can connect and disconnect whatever the "male" is connected to and the CO2 won't leak away.

Something like this should only be used AFTER a regulator. These are not rated for the pressure inside a CO2 tank which will be several hundred PSI

 

[Dutto]

Something like this should only be used AFTER a regulator. These are not rated for the pressure inside a CO2 tank which will be several hundred PSI

Never thought of that! (Didn't think anyone on the Forum would be so stupid!)

Actually, neither does the manufacturer as the blurb states:

• Brass Colour Inline Quick Release Fitting For Propane & Butane Gas

• For 8Mm I/D Hose

• 2 X Mikalor W2 stainless band Hose Clips

• For Use On Bbq'S, Camping, Cookers, Patio Heaters Ect

I presume that this is because if anyone managed to fit them to the HP side of a Propane Cylinder (or a CO2 bottle) the tubing would rupture or blow off the bayonet fitting.