Ok, so couldn't resist checking progress!! It's around 1.016, very murky (taken from bottom tap with sediment) has a lovely aroma (not sure what) but tastes a little harsh, yet nice. Have upped the temp and will consider dry hopping tomorrow.
Interesting....I wonder if I should have used a full packet rather than 1/2-3/4 I did use. Will chuck in the rest tonightSo I've looked at my recipe on Brewfather and it says I should've used 2 packets of yeast or done a starter!
I have 18.6L of beer at a SG of 1.062. I've definitely underpitched. Damn it. I still have another packet of yeast though. Will give it another couple of days before I add it. The tilt is reading between 1.019 and 1.020 just now. I'm not going to dry hop until I'm sure it's going again. I normally dry hop around 1.017.
Can't hurt anything I guess, only help.Interesting....I wonder if I should have used a full packet rather than 1/2-3/4 I did use. Will chuck in the rest tonight
That would be really useful. When I got back into this, reading around gave me tye impression that over pitching could cause issues, thus I tend to err on the safer side. I figured a pk for a 23l batch, thus half pk (towards 3/4) for my smaller brews. But maybe a full pk for 12l brews won't actually do any damage. The last kit I used came with 2pks yeast. As I only brewed half the contents I used only one pk....this brew must have stalled as I can't open any bottles without a fountain!!Apparently MaltMiller are going to be doing a YouTube series on Yeast soon as they reckon one of the biggest issues in homebrewing is that people under-pitch which might be quite relevant to this discussion.
From what I gather it seems to be that for most beers a single sachet of dry yeast isn't actually enough. I'm no expert though as I always use liquid yeast and build a starter to me to the required pitching rate (1.0million cells/ml for this beer).
That would be really useful. When I got back into this, reading around gave me tye impression that over pitching could cause issues, thus I tend to err on the safer side. I figured a pk for a 23l batch, thus half pk (towards 3/4) for my smaller brews. But maybe a full pk for 12l brews won't actually do any damage. The last kit I used came with 2pks yeast. As I only brewed half the contents I used only one pk....this brew must have stalled as I can't open any bottles without a fountain!!
I should've known better really as Brewfather always tells me I need two packets if it's over 1.060. I'm an ***** lolApparently MaltMiller are going to be doing a YouTube series on Yeast soon as they reckon one of the biggest issues in homebrewing is that people under-pitch which might be quite relevant to this discussion.
From what I gather it seems to be that for most beers a single sachet of dry yeast isn't actually enough. I'm no expert though as I always use liquid yeast and build a starter to me to the required pitching rate (1.0million cells/ml for this beer).
Very useful info, especially about the esters. Bit of a moment as my stronger beers have had some characteristics which are probably linked to stressed yeast. Never considered that before. Will definitely be upping my yeast from now onFrom what I've read, to have issues from over-pitching you'd need to go massively over so not too much to worry about there. Under-pitching can cause a few issues like poor attenuation / stalled fermentation as well as generation of excessive esters and fusel alcohols.
How Yeast Pitching Rates Affect Beer Fermentation - Precision Fermentation :
'If you want to brew consistent beers, it’s critical to maintain a standard pitch rate each time you make the same beer. And as we know, yeast is temperamental. It needs just the right conditions to do its work.
If you under-pitch, meaning you don’t add enough yeast to the cooled wort waiting inside your fermenter, the individual yeast cells may struggle to do more work than they can handle. They can reproduce too many times in order to compensate, which increases the chances of off-flavors.
Low pitch rates raise the odds that fermentation characteristics like esters will develop. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on your intended style and flavor profile.
If you over-pitch, or dump in too much yeast, your squadron of cells might over-accomplish its mission, thereby fermenting too fast and stripping the beer of much of its desired character. If you’re aiming for esters and other complexities that arise during fermentation, you might not get them.'
. Did you give it a stir to get it going again?Just a quick update. I gave mine a little nudge and it's going again now so I've risked dry-hopping it, and also turned it up a degree. I used my stainless tea balls to dry hop this one.
It seems to have speeded up since I nudged it, so I don't think there's any need for more yeast in my one.
Going to bottle on Tuesday.
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Nope I gave it a gentle swirl to try to get the yeast moving.. Did you give it a stir to get it going again?
Thought I'd show you both my tilt graphs to analyse the difference.
The first batch was 24L but I split it between 2 fermenters and put a full pack of yeast in each one. In hindsight this was the right amount of yeast, but it's sooo apricotty!
The second one is 18.6L of beer with one full pack of yeast in. Looks like I underpitched by half. Looks like it's really speeded up now though. But of course the tilt could be knocking the hop containers and skewing the readings.
Both beers started at 1.062 I believe. The latest one will be done tomorrow at this rate!
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What is the swap date on this. Just decided at the last minute to do a dry hop which is going to add a few days.
Judging by the last one feb 23rd to April 30th should cover itWhat is the swap date on this. Just decided at the last minute to do a dry hop which is going to add a few days.
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