Inkbird controller

[Braindead]

Question for you folks

Building a keggle and was looking at an electric version.
I was wondering would this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inkbird-ITC-310T-Programmable-Temperature-Controller/dp/B019Q3K4EI

Be compatable with https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01D4U26YA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472826990&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=4500+watt+heating+element&dpPl=1&dpID=31gucV58l3L&ref=plSrch

Or does the element require to much juice for the thermostat

Many thanks

 

[Simonh82]

That's too powerful for the inkbird controller. They are only rated for 10A so you'd be limited to ~2300W element.

Others have asked on here, so do a quick search. There are options out there, I think you need a solid state relay but I'm not an expert.

Saying that, I think you would struggle to run a 4500W element of a standard domestic supply as you'd be going over 13A. 3000W is about the max you can get normally.

 

[Braindead]

Thanks for your reply
Don't fancy blowing my ring.
Just had a little idea.
I could use a smaller 2000w element and connect that to the controller and use it must to maintain a constant mash temp.
Then an additional more power element for the boil but not attached to the controller

 

[Chippy_Tea]

Don't fancy blowing my ring.

:shock: :lol:

.......................

 

[GermLish]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-g48ZYZeZI[/ame]

 

[Chippy_Tea]

I will ask Inkbird to give some advice.

 

[Spoon]

What you can do is put 2x elements and controllers, so you'd have one set at say 98C and another at 100C, it's fine as long as you keep everything separate (I.e. one plug, one controller, one element, then the same again ). That way it'll heat up quickly then the lower one will switch off leaving the other to keep it boiling.

For the mash you'd need some recirculation otherwise it'll burn. Either HERMS or RIMS, the element can't sit directly in the mash.

 

[Fil]

if your considering biab brewing i would focus on retaining heat with insulation for the mash rather than applying heat from an element. without careful attention to flow capacity and a pump to move the liquor you stand to do more damage than good by cooking and denaturing the grain closer to the element with the consequent loss of efficiency..

for heating upto strike temp and for the boil what sort of volume are you looking at brewing ? if 5 gallons a 3kw element would be suficient, but most folk fit 2 x elements relying on one alone for the boil but using the 2nd to hit strike and boil temps quicker.

if you want to control 2 x elements for hitting a target strike temp a pid controller can switch a number of ssrs so a single pid controller and 2 x SSR/heatsink combos, using one ssr to switch the live feed for each element, each load fed by a plug in a seperate socket, A lot of us electric brewers use feeds from 2 distinct ring mains for example i take one feed from the kitchin ring and the second from the garage ring.

 

[Inkbird]

Question for you folks

Building a keggle and was looking at an electric version.
I was wondering would this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019Q3K4EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Be compatable with https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D4U26YA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Or does the element require to much juice for the thermostat

Many thanks

Hi,

The ITC-310T is not enough, 10A/220V only.

Maybe you can try with an Inkbird PID ITC-100VH+25A/40A SSR.

2 links for your reference, hope that this will helps.

ITC-100VH+25A SSR+K sensor: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JLATRNQ

ITC-100VH+40A SSR+K sensor: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADHNSGI


Sincerely;
Inkbird

 

[Inkbird]

All,join the giveaway here with the link
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=611011#post611011

 

[Braindead]

All,join the giveaway here with the link
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=611011#post611011

Many thanks

I`ll happily be part of your give away
: )
Poor Postma here