Inkbird 308 controller use for mash?

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The Baron

The Baron

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As the title says I can get a new Inkbird 308 on offer for £17.99.
Now I want to use it for my mash/mash out control as in a previous thread some of you may remember my bonded element has gon on my AIO and I have replaced it with a Peco heating element.
It is working really well the only downside is the mash control which has to be done manually - so having to flick the heater on and off a couple of times to keep a reasonably constant temp.
So I have wondered if it would be possible to use the Inkbird 308 which says it controls upto 2400w which is the power of my Peco element also is the temp probe ok in mash temps?
If you could throw some yays or nays before I order
TIA
 
Hi I used the inkbird 308 to control my Dark farm brew tank 2.2 KW element but after half a dozen brews it melted bonding the plug onto the controller. I am aware other members on this forum use it without any problems.
I have since switched to a RAPT controller 10amp and it’s an absolute game changer . I contacted kegland as I noticed that they make a heavy duty controller 15 amp but it’s not available in the UK and asked what the difference was. Their reply was both units are exactly the same except the 15 amp unit has upgrade tail sockets to accept the 15 amp circuits that are available in Australia . 10amp is plenty for your boiler plus it has the advantage of being a PID controller.
 
I have used one but why not buy an Inkbird IPB-16s, designed for the job and much better temperature control?
 
They do work fine with 240v, you need to swap the U.S. style sockets for UK one's on the end of the leads but that is a simple process, done several brews with mine now and my mash temperature control has never been better.
 
Galena said:
They do work fine with 240v, you need to swap the U.S. style sockets for UK one's on the end of the leads but that is a simple process, done several brews with mine now and my mash temperature control has never been better.
Click to expand...
Can you post a picture of the conversion I dismissed them as I was told by the manufacturer they weren’t suitable for the UK
 
The other idea (& cheaper) is to use power controller (as well as inkbird) to reduce the element power draw during mash. Which to be fair is what GF / BM controllers do. Would also stop things melting.

All plug in.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284543755532

Cheaper and it would give more accuracy (with no lag causing overshoot after heating phase)

I have more info of you want.
 
Last edited:
An Inkbird IPB-16S? ... Cor, they look nice. They are "PID" controlled (assuming they have a decent PID "algorithm" - some PIDs are better than others). Possibly are constructed for multiple voltages, @Galena has been doing the "Lemming" bit and trying them okay at 230V, but Inkbird haven't released the ones with UK plugs and sockets yet? So, they may still need a "Lemming" approach to set them up.

I have ITC-1000 to replace the defective 308s, but they need a bit of care wiring up (and neither are "PID" for tight temperature control). To be honest, I wouldn't trust any of these cheap Chinese devices to switch heavy loads (like a 2400W heating element). You only have to look inside to see what they refer to as a 15A "relay" to see why! Still, if functioning well, it doesn't take much effort to step the switching up to something less scary.
 
I have looked at BKT and can only see the Rapt temp controller not a Inkbird which is £70 - is this the one meant?.
If brewers out there say the 308 melts? I know MM said his did but he also said that others had reported they worked ok it would be nice to hear from them as £70 is too much for just the mash cycle as I can monitor it manually quite easily and the £70 could be put towards a new AIO eventually.
I just thought as the 308 was on offer at £17.99 it was a punt but if they melt the plugs I will give it a miss.
I suppose its like the old Peco plug melting scenario we had a few years ago before most of us started using AIO's they seemed to work for a while until you did longer boils or mashes but maybe the 308 would be ok if used just for the mash cycle as long as not too long a mash, what are your thoughts
 
I have re-read your post PeeBee and it looks to be the same isuue as the Peco lead which was really rated @ 10amp when it needs to be 15amp for extended use.
How would I step up the 308 then to 15amp? and is it viable too
 
the baron said:
... How would I step up the 308 then to 15amp? and is it viable too
Click to expand...
I'd probably have the 308 output as the low power trigger for a solid-state relay (SSR - but I'm not sure you'll find any which handle 230V "trigger voltage" so there might be a bit more phaffing about?). You'll also need a manual switch because SSRs can (on rare occasions) fail, and they don't necessarily fail "safe"!

Anyway: I don't need to repeat how dodgy I think ITC-308s are!
 
the baron said:
I have looked at BKT and can only see the Rapt temp controller not a Inkbird which is £70 - is this the one meant?.
If brewers out there say the 308 melts? I know MM said his did but he also said that others had reported they worked ok it would be nice to hear from them as £70 is too much for just the mash cycle as I can monitor it manually quite easily and the £70 could be put towards a new AIO eventually.
I just thought as the 308 was on offer at £17.99 it was a punt but if they melt the plugs I will give it a miss.
I suppose its like the old Peco plug melting scenario we had a few years ago before most of us started using AIO's they seemed to work for a while until you did longer boils or mashes but maybe the 308 would be ok if used just for the mash cycle as long as not too long a mash, what are your thoughts
Click to expand...
Yes this is the one a Rapt @ £70.0
Sorry
 
peebee said:
I'd probably have the 308 output as the low power trigger for a solid-state relay (SSR - but I'm not sure you'll find any which handle 230V "trigger voltage" so there might be a bit more phaffing about?). You'll also need a manual switch because SSRs can (on rare occasions) fail, and they don't necessarily fail "safe"!

Anyway: I don't need to repeat how dodgy I think ITC-308s are!
Click to expand...
Nuff said it's a No from me and a No from him, goodnight athumb.. :laugh8::laugh8::laugh8:
 
peebee said:
I'd probably have the 308 output as the low power trigger for a solid-state relay (SSR - but I'm not sure
Click to expand...

I am. The 308 is sound, just don't overload it (especially when you don't need to).

Much better all round use a power controller. It just adds a
' knob' like the one on your kitchen stove.

You don't need (or want) 2700w to MAINTAIN 66c.

You don't simmer if full power do you?
 
Last edited:
so MashBag is using the 308 at its upper limit for the mash period lets say 45 mins going to overload it as I only want it for the mash control and will unplug it for the boil etc
 

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