Induction Hobs

[UKSkydiver]

What pot size/volume are you using on that?

It’s a 16 litre stainless steel pot.

 

[Drunkula]

Just a thought, has anybody tried wrapping insulation around their pot to help with the boil?

Yes. I use the lining from a setee and a camping mat all hels on with bungee cords and move it over from the fermenter I'm mashing in over to the one I'm boiling it when I do the sparge. It's not on it in this picture so I could show the bottom clearly.

 

[Manners]

Question and sorry to hijack the thread- but are the glass surfaces of induction hobs ‘man enough’ for the load of 23L liquid plus additions? I’d be slightly nervous....

 

[Drunkula]

Question and sorry to hijack the thread- but are the glass surfaces of induction hobs ‘man enough’ for the load of 23L liquid plus additions?

Absolutely. Even the £22 Toshiba one I got from Asda is no bother with 26 litres on it.

If I were going to do 50 litres I'd think about making a wooden frame so you could slide the induction unit in and out. Not for the buffalo one, though - it's a tank.

 

[Bill_g]

My 50 litre brew kettle is non magnetic SS so I was interested to know if an induction interface disc might work. Came across this In-Depth Product Review: Induction Interface Discs: The Inefficiency of Induction Converter Discs (aka Induction Interface Discs or Diffusers) and What Your Real Alternatives Are. Fairly convincing description of an experiment that proved that it's no-go. So I shall stick to using gas.

 

[Racehunter]

2Kw induction hob on the way, so it won't be long before I can judge its performance.

Thanks for all your responses

 

[Cwrw666]

My 50 litre brew kettle is non magnetic SS so I was interested to know if an induction interface disc might work.

I seem to remember someone on the forum who uses a plastic vessel on an induction hob and just has a steel pan lid in the bottom.

 

[Racehunter]

and it can be seen by clicking on the hyperlink in @Drunkula's post 5 posts above yours

 

[aamcle]

The is a mega problem that as far as I know effects all but the most expensive induction hobs, they can't be used with an external PID/PWM.

This means you can't put a temperature probe into the pot, set a temperature target on your control panel and expect it to come to a set point.

Your left with fiddly and almost certainly inaccurate manual control.

I'd be glad to know if anybody has got around this.


AAmcle

 

[Bill_g]

The is a mega problem that as far as I know effects all but the most expensive induction hobs, they can't be used with an external PID/PWM.

This means you can't put a temperature probe into the pot, set a temperature target on your control panel and expect it to come to a set point.

Your left with fiddly and almost certainly inaccurate manual control.

I'd be glad to know if anybody has got around this.


AAmcle

Not relevant for a boil kettle which is the main topic of this thread I think.

 

[aamcle]

That's true Bill.

I used a controlled Burco to mash then boil for years, I wouldn't want two separate systems unless I was going to have a 3 vessel brewery.

 

[Racehunter]

Yep, my set-up is simply an insulated pot for BIAB mashing and then boiling. The induction hob does have a degree or so of control over different temperatures/power but to be honest, for the mash, it holds its heat just fine with the induction hob off.

 

[NPi]

Same here, I BIAB with induction. I use my Inkbird set to 65c to heat water and then do the adjusting temp and mash in manually after. When setting to 65c it runs over but is normally close to temp once doughed in. I keep the temp probe in just to check mash temps but don't use it to control heat once mashing.

 

[Ben034]

The is a mega problem that as far as I know effects all but the most expensive induction hobs, they can't be used with an external PID/PWM.

This means you can't put a temperature probe into the pot, set a temperature target on your control panel and expect it to come to a set point.

Your left with fiddly and almost certainly inaccurate manual control.

I'd be glad to know if anybody has got around this.


AAmcle

I use a sous vide "wand" to set mash temperature. Place it outside the BIAB bag and it holds the temperature accurately. Also use it to recirculate whilst using an immersion chiller. Helps to get the temp down quicker.

 

[aamcle]

How well does that work Ben?

I been storing a cheap Aldi single induction plate/hob/burner/thing would a souse vide wand work with it or dose the hob need to come with the wand?

Edit.
No it doesn't! There is no fine temperature control 60 the 80°C and boil nothing in between and 60 gave 67°C Oh well it can go back they have space now.


Aatb. Aamcle

 

[Ben034]

How well does that work Ben?

I was given a cheap Aldi single induction plate/hob/burner/thing would a souse vide wand work with it or dose the hob need to come with the wand?


Aatb. Aamcle

I just bought one from Anova. There are a number of brands around the £100 mark. I use for cooking as well on occasion. I use an induction hob to boil and the sous vide stick is taken out after the mash before boiling. I add it back at the end of the boil, set to 80c for any whirlpool addition for 20 mins. Then set to 19c and turn the immersion chiller back on. Works well for me - used it for nearly 100 brews without issues.

 

[Marcale]

I have just bought an induction hob primarily for boiling wort. Formerly I used bottled LPG but now my home is run off solar power I have excess electricity when the sun shines, almost every day, so I decided that it was worth a try. If I don’t use it for beer SWMBO can use it in kitchen.

Experiment:
Will the induction hob bring 20L of water to boil in my kettle, with lid off, and maintain it for 1 hour?

Equipment:
Cheap Induction heater (XTREME XH-IC2100). 230v 2,100W. About £30. Set to max, 2,100W, for whole time.

Kettle - magnetic stainless steel capacity 70L.

First attempt: Tripped out extension lead before it reached boil.
Second attempt: Time to reach boiling 120 minutes.

Observations:
95min - 85C
100min - 88C Put lid on.
120min - boiling vigorously. It may have started earlier, but non transparent lid was on.

Initial volume 20L, Final volume 15L.
Note that I live in a tropical climate and the air temperature today is 30C.

Discussion
While it is slow to get to the boil, I don’t think this matters too much. Boil could not be described as vigorous rolling boil. It costs me nothing but time. Is the boil vigorous enough, remains to be seen. Most pundits state that a “vigorous rolling boil” is required, I am not certain of the validity of this statement. If the water is boiling, no matter how weakly it is by definition at 100C. A vigorous rolling boil is at the same temperature, no higher, but has more movement in the body of the liquid which would keep the hops in motion. My thought, but with no supporting evidence, is that temperature is far more important than motion.

With lid on DMS may be trapped in kettle, but once removed for the boiling phase the DMS should be boiled off unless it combines with other compounds.

Are evaporation (boiling) losses related to DMS reduction? If so then, even though the boil isn’t as vigorous, the additional time for the whole process will probably mean that DMS won’t be a problem. My boil losses are about the same with this method (about 30%) than the gas fired boil (about 28%)

Conclusion:
Simple answer - Yes.
Slow to get there but reasonable boil maintained for 1 hr.

Maybe put some holes in lid or have it on for the getting up to temperature phase?

Looking forward to your comments and of course doing my first real batch next week.