Brewzilla Gen 4 advice and experiences

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I mainly keg using corny kegs. Occasionally I bottle a few to take out using a counter pressure device.
Mainly kegs myself and counter pressure fill bottles as needed.
Belgians go in bottles, sometimes put up a bit of a fight!
I can't decide if a double 23l batch. Spread across 3 kegs (15+ L each) is worth a test.

Significantly more work, to ferment. But no bottling. And 1 run for twice the output.
And only one cleanup.
 
Normal reason for clogging isn't that some fluff in the wort, it normally that pipe work is restricted somewhere and it gets caught.

So...
Are all taps top and bottom full bore?
Are there any hard turns in the pipes?

Let's not forget manufacturers will change suppliers and not notice (or gaf) if the quality of a component is compromised.

Can the taps be improved / replaced / removed all together?
The tap is decent quality.
The pipework can be rerouted so the wort will bypass the pump on route to the tap in case of pump blockage.
I've not bothered to do it myself but have never had a blocked pump. 🤞😂
 
It's not really the quality of the tap(s) it more than they need to be able to open full bore, not be a hole in the middle that snags stuff? Size matters.
 
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Brewzilla gen 4 Equipment Profile ...false bottom
I have seen the value 0.7 gll of false bottom for the BZ gen 4 35 lt profile , but with the central hole all the brewing liquid is drained into the fermenter , then this value would have to be 0 gl ...
Yes or no ?
 
I think the 0.7 gallon is the dead space below the malt pipe used during mash water calculations.
My system has a 9 litre volume below the malt pipe, then add the litres per kilo of grain desired for mash volume total water.
You would have 0 litres lost in the mash tun as you don't drain the mash tun into a boiler.
You do drain chilly bins etc and they have a loss.
Your loss is in the grain absorption which also occurs on top of mash tun losses.
 
'my craft beer maker in Brazil. I have a Brewzilla 35 lt gen 4. Checking the pot profile in version 2 of BrewFather, the dead space value is 0.Should I consider this value? ...due to the central hole?
 

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The dead space is the volume below the malt pipe although it isn’t really dead as you can recover all of it .
Brewfather needs this value to calculate the total water volume otherwise the mash will be too thick especially with small volume brews. Hope this helps
 
The dead space is the volume below the malt pipe although it isn’t really dead as you can recover all of it .
Brewfather needs this value to calculate the total water volume otherwise the mash will be too thick especially with small volume brews. Hope this helps
hanks for the explanations... I use the ratio of 4 liters of water / kg of grains... type BIAB... TOTAL water... no sparging... I use all the water in the pan... in the total water bill... and I don't lose anything due to the central hole in the pan... so I consider the loss under the grain basket to be 0
 
Malt grains in basket BEFORE or AFTER water ?
In Single Vessel pans... First malt grains inside the basket, before the water... or first water in the basket and then malt grains ?
In Brewzilla gen 4 I have been looking at forums that : A couple of pro tips to wrap things up. First, is to make sure you add your grains to the malt pipe BEFORE you lower it into the vessel. This ensures the weight of the grain keeps the bottom plate in place, so that as you lower it down, the water doesn’t push the bottom plate out of position and create a sneak path for whole grains to get through
 
I've found that putting the grains and basket in and then flowing the water in through the recirculation to fill from the bottom is a dream for the ease of stirring it in without balls, but it's a bit of a pain getting temperatures right.
 
Another completely blocked counterflow chiller again today, that bottom plate is a disgrace for letting hops through. I've been toying with the idea of getting the new basket for the G30 and I think it's finally time.
 
Another completely blocked counterflow chiller again today, that bottom plate is a disgrace for letting hops through. I've been toying with the idea of getting the new basket for the G30 and I think it's finally time.
I don't know what I'm doing right but I've never had a blockage.
I don't use massive amounts of hops because I'm not keen on those styles.
I rarely use a hop spider.
I was just using hop pellets when I started with the G4, recently I've also been using 25 grams of very low alpha whole hops in the boil and leaving them to settle for about an hour with a very gentle resirculation.
Once settled whole hops form a very nice filter bed so I'm getting much cleaner wort into the fermenter.
I remember 30 years ago when I was using a burco boiler it was mostly whole hops and they were great for filtering out trub.
 
Some good tips there on what to set the sensor differential to during rests and temp rises. One thing I can't work out though from looking through a profile on the portal is how to set the differential & power on a rise as you only have one option for each which you need during the rest itself.
 
You would need to set the rise as a separate step in the profile, with its own power and differential, and configure to have it move to the next step (the rest) when the temperature is reached.
I was just about to say the same thing. IE:
You could split the rest into two steps.

Heat to rest temperature. Power 60% differential 5.

Maintain rest temperature.

Power 30% differential 1.
 
I have figured out how to work this machine like many other owners by changing overshoot temps and varying the actual heat temps(lower in mash for both).
If Kegland had released these type of vids earlier most owners and reviewers would have known it was not as easy as just setting the steps and expecting it not to overshoot.
This would also have saved some of the initial bad press of it was not controlling the machine as was expected as brewers have varying technical know how and not all had enough brewing knowledge to figure this out causing for some disastrous brewdays knocking their confidence in the machine.
I would like them to do a video on exactly how to set the profiles step for step as this would further help brewers to get the best out of the machine.
It is a brilliant piece of equipment when it is figured out but IMO it is as if Kegland have designed the machine released it and then figured out how to work it on the fly which has taken quite a while and of course has I have said newer brewers or non AIO users have found it difficult to understand what settings were needed.
Please Kegland do a vid just showing how to set a profile with EVERY step shown this will help all owners to get the most out of this machine the last vid I have just watched in this thread is a good watch but further profile settings need to be fully explained as all brewers are not as technically au fait with all the equipment settings to get the best out of this machine
 
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