Imp stout carb problem?!

[suffolkbeer]

Just opened the first bottle from a batch of IMP stout and it seems very under carbed.....

It was batch primed as normal and bottled. Then kept warm for 2 weeks. I then put it in the chiller about 3 days ago.....

Either it just needs another week or so in the chiller or the original yeast was killed by the alcohol in the beer?

If the beer remains under carbed after another week of chilling can I fix it by:
1)open bottles and pour into bottling bucket
2)pitch rehydrated safale F2 bottlin yeast
3)stir and allow to mix for say half an hour
4)rebottle and condition as normal

What do you think?
Also should I read-prime?

 

[IainM]

Your beer won't carb in the fridge. Keep it somewhere room temp for another couple of weeks.

 

[The Baron]

take it out of the fridge and leave in a warmer place for longer.
do not pour into a bottling bucket as it will oxidise the beer
if it is not showing signs of carbing up more than previously then open the bottle put in more sugar to suit and re-cap. If it is showing signs of carbing up more than previous I would leave longer in a warm place and re-try in a further month Ps it is a IMP stout so needs a long conditioning

 

[Beatsy]

i've got the same problem with my RIS. I left for 2 weeks in primary, added cacao nibs and bourbon/vanilla, left for a further 2 weeks before priming. Been conditioning about 1.5 months now and still quite flat. Not put in cold storage so been left at about 22-24 c. Going to try another tomorrow maybe and see if there is any improvement. Interested in the re-sugaring method. I usually prime with a sugar solution in my bottling bucket. Is there a good way of doing it like this to avoid bottle bombs?

 

[The Baron]

Well as I have said do not return the brew to a bottling bucket as it will oxidise the beer with all that pouring and glugging I would deffo lift the caps and put in half a LEVEL teaspoon and re-cap straight away. In my opinion RIS should not be well carbed. If by any chance you do overcarb when re-doing you can always gently lift the caps to release some pressure and re-seal again. Don't forget its a long conditioning process for this type of beer and when you do get to the time to open them release the cap gently incase of gushers

 

[Beatsy]

will do. +1 for not putting back into bottling bucket. Think my brew got oxidised enough at bottling time to risk anymore :-D

 

[Ajhutch]

There’s two possibilities aren’t there. 1) underpriming. 2) dead yeast.

I wouldn’t personally reprime without taking a gravity reading. Sacrifice a bottle, test the gravity. If it’s at the original FG, then the priming sugar has been fermented and you need to add more sugar to hit your desired carbonation. If the gravity is higher than the FG then your priming sugar hasn’t been fermented and the answer is either give it longer or add more yeast, but if you add more sugar now you risk over carbonating.

 

[suffolkbeer]

While understanding that oxidation generally is bad at bottling, if I’m going to add bottling yeast and the bottle then would a LITTLE O2 be a good idea to allow the yeast to work?

I’d not intentionally add O2 to the beer and would pour gently to minimise glugging etc.

I’m minded to give it a go with a portion of the batch and see what happens.......