I'm new to the forum - Want another keg - Which one?

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andyg

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Hi everyone. This is a great forum, thanks to everyone who has posted here. I'm currently brewing my first ale (Wherry), and reading through a lot of threads here has been invaluable. Helps put the noobs mind at rest when wondering if you've screwed things up.

I've caught the bug already and I've not even transferred my first wort into the keg yet. Currently fermenting - 8 days in so far and the wort has settled down and cleared quite a lot after the initial froth spilling through the airlock (will leave lid cracked next time, or put not so much water in). Will probably syphon to keg tomorrow.

I was bought a Ballihoo kit. The kit has a keg without a c02 bulb kit.

I want to buy another keg so I can get another ale kit on the go soon as poss really. So I'm wondering if all kegs are pretty much the same or would you recommend one over another. Looking through the "show us your stash thread" there seems to quite a few to choose from.

Please recommend a good keg. And also maybe another good starter ale kit that has a bit more abv than the wherry ( I like my beer on the stronger side). Was thinking about the woodfordes admirals reserve.

Your thoughts are much appreciated.

ps king kegs look popular
 
If you want the best keg the cornies are the way forward however you then need co2 regulator but the pros outway the cons king kegs are popular and worth the money
 
King Kegs are worth the money before you go onto Cornies. Its just another step up. If you decide to go KK its worth sitting down, with the empty keg in your hands and just see how they work. Have a play, fill with water and re-gas. Check that the float sits correctly, no leaks, fill a sink full of water and try to understand how the float system works
 
johnnyboy1965 said:
King Kegs are worth the money before you go onto Cornies. Its just another step up. If you decide to go KK its worth sitting down, with the empty keg in your hands and just see how they work. Have a play, fill with water and re-gas. Check that the float sits correctly, no leaks, fill a sink full of water and try to understand how the float system works

I was thinking of a keg with no gas gubbins. Whats the float business all about? Do King Kegs do kegs without floats, ie just a screw lid? ( I will do some more research). What I did like about the KK is the larger neck - easier for cleaning/sanitising.

Reason for no gas is with me and my mates, storing beer for prolonged periods isn't going to be needed. :drink:
 
If you and your mates are going to be drinking it quite quickly, you will definitely benefit from a keg with co2 valve... The faster you drink it, the more had it will need to dispense it...
 
With a plastic keg and no CO2, it's going to be a case of drinking the entire 40-pint keg within 2-3 days, otherwise the oxygen will get in and oxidise the brew.

If this is a likely scenario, then it's a good idea to open the cap slightly when the flow slows down, that way you will allow air in the top, keeping the layer of CO2 above the beer (CO2 is heavier than air) whereas if you don't then a vacuum will form, and air will get drawn back through the tap and through the beer.

You can get replacement caps for the budget kegs with a CO2 injector (for the little 8g bulbs) built in for about £18 from either Wilkinsons or Tesco, and these will sort your problems completely...
 
lovelldr said:
If you and your mates are going to be drinking it quite quickly, you will definitely benefit from a keg with co2 valve... The faster you drink it, the more had it will need to dispense it...

The faster you drink it, the more had it will need to dispense it.. ----"The more had??" I think I know what you mean, I will need more co2 in the keg to get the beer out, but can't I just crack the screw lid to let in air then drink within a week?

But back to the king kegs question I asked earlier - to answer my own question - a bottom tap KK has no float and the top tap KK does. Float means I could draw beer off from the top. I will probably go for the bottom tap KK with gas, as the extra cost and flexibility gas brings it makes sense.

Any other kegs to consider?
 
fbsf said:
With a plastic keg and no CO2, it's going to be a case of drinking the entire 40-pint keg within 2-3 days, otherwise the oxygen will get in and oxidise the brew.

I was under the impression that the secondary ferment will produce enough co2 to keep my beer fresh until the beer level in the keg drops creating a space for the compressed co2 to fill. And then when the space gets too big a vacuum will occur preventing beer flowing through the cap, and then I will be forced to let air in and then I will only have a few days to drink it.
 
It will, but only to about 1/2 full.

And then the gas will start to slowly come out of the beer to fill the space - if you and your mates are likely to have a good few pints, that may not be fast enough to fill the vacuum.

If you were only having a pint or two a night, you'd probably be ok down to about 1/3rd full, but then the remainder would need gassing, or drinking within a 2/3 days.

The problem is that when the beer stops flowing, normally air bubbles back through the tap - this is what you really want to avoid and why top-venting is preferable if you have no way of getting CO2 into it.
 
What you say makes sense.

I suppose the other thing is (if i'm not drinking it quickly) is that the beer will be flat if it's losing it's co2 to fill a gap. Thanks for your replys btw
 
I always use budget kegs (Wilkos). I seal the vent in the top of the ordinary cap by filling it with super glue, around the rubber washer, so as to make it air tight. Also I seal the hole on the underside likewise. I prime the keg with 50 gram of sugar and I have no trouble. I find I have enough Co2 to last the whole keg. In hot weather it is sometimes necessary, when I get a dribble from the tap, to release the cap slightly for a very short time.
I have never had any problem this way and have never used gas. I expect it is all a matter of taste.
 
rocket ronnie said:
I always use budget kegs (Wilkos).

+1

Like may others, I've had nothing but trouble with the more expensive King Kegs, Rotokegs and the like, and lost several brews. They seem fine when new but things seem to go wrong after a few uses, despite renewing all the seals, doing the usual vaseline round the lid etc. My Rotokeg currently has a slow leak and loses pressure after 24hrs and, despite many attempts, I just can't find the leak.

So now I go for the budget Wilko kegs and replace the top with one with an S30 valve, like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Homebrew-Barr ... 2a21102b2f

The good thing with the budget kegs is that they deform slightly as pressure builds up, so you know when you've got a good amount of gas, just need to be a bit careful with leakage if the pressure gets too great, I normally draw a bit off every now and again....or drink it :D
 
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