I have just had a headfit

[Frisp]

Just spent a shoitload with Nordic optical. 70 L pot and 80 L thermobox.... :clap: :clap: :party: :party:
I just hope she doesnt find out.... :hmm:

 

[A T]

They are quite hard to hide :lol:

 

[Wez]

Nice one Frisp, you're gonna have to do some serious buttering up

 

[Dunfie]

Good job Frisp, you won't regret it. I have the 50 thermobox from Nordic Optical and it really is the pigs tits! :clap:

 

[Vossy1]

it really is the pigs tits

:lol: :lol:

Good man Frisp, as Dunfie said you won't regret it

Now don't panic :shock: but
When you get them..check for dents...
Next give them both a VERY good clean with lots of neat washing up liquid and rinse out.
Get a torch and literally put your head inside them checking for holes. Hopefully there won't be any, but I've had one holed.

Also check carefully around the weld lines. If you can't see any, that's great but this is where the holes are most likely to be.

Reprt back and let us know how you get on with them

 

[Frisp]

Holes :shock: panic :pray:
Seriously thanks for the tips V1

Todays moral seems to be " Dont go on ebay with 6 pints onboard" :nono:

But it had to be done

 

[Vossy1]

Todays moral seems to be " Dont go on ebay with 6 pints onboard"

:lol: ...I'd say it's quite the opposite oh shiny owner

The procedure for damaged/faulty item is to take a picture and e-mail it to Nordic, where upon they will offer a replacement or some refund.
The holes are worse case. I drilled my pot before noticing the hole.......doh
I've only ever had 1 problem over 9 pots/thermos and it was easily fixed with JB Weld

 

[Frisp]

How hard was it to drill holes in these pots, Im undecided whether to leave the 70L as is and boil using Gas or whetehr to Drill holes and use 2 3Kw elements from BES.

With Electric I can brew inside during the winter, but with Gas I dont need to put holes in a large piece of Shiney.

 

[Vossy1]

How hard was it to drill holes in these pots

It's quite easy. You need to use a 40mm hole saw and keep lubricant on the blade whilst drilling, I used water.
Also, dont drill to fast or too slow. To fast and you'll harden the steel, too slow and the bit may jam which breaks the teeth.

 

[Kingfisher]

Sorry to butt in folks. Frisp, I think V1 has already mentioned this in another thread. You will need to drill a small pilot hole first using a titanium drill, not expensive. I think V1 said he used 4mm. Drill very slowly and with steady pressure. if you go too fast you will harden the metal and although only 1mm thick it will become difficult to drill. I've done this and to get out of trouble used a Dremel cutting disc to break through the dimple on the inside of the pot then used the pilot drill to open up. I used a 38mm cobalt hole cutter for my Backer elements, which gave a very good fit, I had to screw the elements in and cutting compound rather than water as lubricant. You will also need to dress of the raggy edges.

Best of luck with the project and gan canny with the drill. :)

 

[Wez]

I am sooooo tempted to go shiny :hmm: :hmm:

 

[A T]

I am sooooo tempted to go shiny :hmm: :hmm:

It's only a matter of time Wez, why are you even fighting it? we are borg resistance is futile, you will be assimilated :lol: :lol:

 

[Frisp]

I was thinking about using the immersion heaters from BES which need a hole much bigger then 40 mm. Is this practical considering the curve of the pot?
Or should I stick with kettle elements?

 

[Aleman]

For an Immersion boss you need a 67mm hole (Or there abouts), as the metal of the posts is quite thin there should be no problem tightening up the immersion heater in the boss. (Use a strap wrench on the boss to hold that still and use a box spanner to tighten the immersion heater) . I have this to do on a 38.5L thermobox and am trying to pluck up the courage to cut it

I intend to use either JB Weld or food grade silicone sealant to seal the boss to the pot.

 

[Kingfisher]

I intend to use either JB Weld or food grade silicone sealant to seal the boss to the pot.

Hi Aleman I got this from an enquiry to siroflex recently.

"Application temperature is +5?C to +40?C, temperature resistance after curing is -50?C to +200?C. Please find attached technical data sheet for your perusal. All our technical and COSHH data sheets are available at www.siroflex.co.uk.

I've butchered a NO thermobox and had to cut a much bigger hole in the outer skin to grip the heating element for tightening. I intend to cover it with a piece of rolled S/S with hole cut for the outlet and refill the cavity with insulation.

 

[Frisp]

Look At what the shiney fairy brought....

:party:

 

[A T]

They are a thing of beauty aren't they?

 

[Vossy1]

Lurvely

 

[Frisp]

Im overcome with an urge to give em a good Buffing
Fnaw Fnaw Fnaw

 

[Vossy1]

I almost asked above if you'd polished em yet :lol: