Hydrometer and PET bottle questions

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I have used glass and PET bottles on the same batches and never noticed a difference, I think if your storing it for a long time it could. The instructions that say don't bottle above 1.006 what are they on? If its kit instructions they know the kit should end at that gravity if the instructions are followed exactly.
No its says it on the hydrometer instructions not to bottle over 1.006
 
I can understand your confusion with having a hydrometer with 'Bottle' stamped on it over a range from 1.000 to 1.010, but the kit instructions say not to bottle if over 1.006.

The kit makers know their product so I would leave it and see if it goes down to 1.006, if it doesn't then as long as it's in the yellow section it should be ok.

I like to use at least one PET bottle so I can keep an eye on how its carbonating by the tightness of the bottle.
 
Ah ok I see

Many beers have a FG higher than the yellow range on your hydrometer so its a bit misleading as some brews wont even get down to the yellow section.

What does the kit say about when to bottle?
 
No its the hydrometer instructions saying not to bottle over 1.006 mate

My Hydrometer has the same markings, however, I've never bottled a beer that got as low as 1.006.

This is a general guideline, but the most important thing is that the primary fermentation is complete before you bottle. This may be 1.006 or below, but it could also be higher than that, perhaps sometimes much higher than 1.006.

If you are brewing a kit, you will be given an Original and Final gravity. The Final Gravity will be dependent on the unfermentable sugars in the ingredients and the type of yeast used. If your final FG on the instructions is above 1.006 (which many will be), then don't worry, as long as you get to your advised FG and it sticks there for 2 or three days, then you can bottle. A general guideline that you will read on this and other forums is to leave your beer, untouched in the fv for 2 weeks for primary fermentation to complete. However tempted you might be to rush it along, leave it, then take a reading and if you have reached your FG, bottle.

When it comes to All grain, you will need to determine what the Final FG will be as this will be determined by a few other factors, however there are many brewing software packages that can help with this.
 
Ah ok I see

Many beers have a FG higher than the yellow range on your hydrometer so its a bit misleading as some brews wont even get down to the yellow section.

What does the kit say about when to bottle?
It says when it's below 1.000 for a couple of days. I have just taken a reading now and it's saying 1.016.

Does this sound about right? I started it last Friday and have been worried as I have had no bubbles from air lock.

Also I am doing a lager at the same time and my air lock has-been bubbling and when I opened them both up to take readings there were little bubbles coming to the surface on the lager but not in the cider.
 
Irrespective of what the instructions say it will finish when its finished, (unless it gets stuck along the way - like the legendary Wherry sometimes does at 1.020 ish). What that actually means is your brew is unique and its FG may be different from the same brew done by someone else. The simplest way to tell if it's finished is to first use your eyes to see if its clearing and there is little sign of fermentation, and take SG readings on two or preferably three consecutive days and if it's the same then you're good to go. Don't rely on your airlock, since the FV to lid seal may leak, bypassing the airlock. If it's not a high strength brew then two weeks in the FV will normally see it finished with a good margin, unless you are brewing in cold conditions. So use your eyes and the hydrometer as a better indicator of what you should do rather than some generic instructions.
 
It says when it's below 1.000 for a couple of days. I have just taken a reading now and it's saying 1.016.

Does this sound about right? I started it last Friday and have been worried as I have had no bubbles from air lock.

Also I am doing a lager at the same time and my air lock has-been bubbling and when I opened them both up to take readings there were little bubbles coming to the surface on the lager but not in the cider.

OK, just to clarify, in the case of Cider, you will expect to get a much lower reading than beer and expect a final gravity of around 1.000 or perhaps a little lower.
 
No bubbles doesn't mean fermentation has stopped, just that it's slowed down from the initial major activity in the first few days. Leave it alone for a week and you should see it drop more.
 
OK, just to clarify, in the case of Cider, you will expect to get a much lower reading than beer and expect a final gravity of around 1.000 or perhaps a little lower.
+1.
And most beers usually ends up in the range 1.010 -1.014 but can be higher or lower.

Chrisnewton - what are you actually fermenting, someone on here might have done it and can give you an idea of where theirs ended up. And if it's a kit there's always the kit reviews which may be of some help.
 

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