How to reduce mains voltage from 245 to 220V or less?

[Drunkula]

Have you tried not pulling the plug out a little bit?

 

[peebee]

Ah … you mean the fuse in the 13A plug, not the circuit breakers. That is normal!

And really winds me up! There is something called a "hot lead" because the ordinary 13A leads are a lie, and can't handle the current. But I'm probably lecturing you again as I'm sure you know of them.

(EDIT: Hang on, the conversation has switched to 13A from … err … 15A wasn't it? Definitely time for me to get out now)

 

[simon12]

I have no wish to "challenge" you. But please stop lecturing me on UK voltages. Mine is 245V. The equipment is rated at 3.3kW at 240V and fitted with a Shuko plug which I'm sure you know, is 16A. I don't worry about the wiring or MCB in my house, since it's on a 32A ring. But I do take it seriously that this CE-marked unit draws 15A and that this causes my 13A plug to get very, very hot.

I know alot less than most about this it seems, but would the best solution be to install the type of socket that the 16A plug it came with needs?

 

[Chippy_Tea]

But I do take it seriously that this CE-marked unit draws 15A and that this causes my 13A plug to get very, very hot.

FFS just chuck some cold water on it when it gets hot, sorted.

 

[Ronnie23]

+1 to this.
Have done something very similar in similar circumstances to yourself.

I use one rated at 4kW to control my boiler. Helps control boil over and protect the fused spur the radial is fed from

Fit a triac-based phase-angle controller just before the kettle elements and set the "level" to wherever you're happy. Rule of thumb losses in the triac are about 1W per amp, reduced in proportion to the amount of "on-time" spent by the triac per cycle.

Here's mine: https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...a-cheap-digital-boiler-power-regulator.74112/

Power needed for decent 23 litre boil should be around 1600W