I made my tap based on this guide, but I found that info was missing or not obvious, so I'll try to make everything clear (then when I fail at clarity you can ask questions and I can update accordingly).
Parts:
Bung, the grey rubber type with the plastic core plug, as seen here. On that site he has issues with the core plug and sands a bit off, what I do is put the plug in the top. So you can have a number of these grey bungs complete with plug for storage, then pull out the plug to use with the tap system.
3 way Tee connector, as seen here. Make sure you get one with female fitting on all 3 connections.
1/2" bsp male thread to 12mm barb, as seen here. You want toe 12mm barb so that the 6mm tube fits through to act as a spear, but with plenty space around it to allow co2 in.
1/2" bsp male thread to 1/4" push to connect, as seen here. You need to drill out a hole in one of them so some spares might be handy, but you'll need 2 at least.
1/4" (6.35mm) tubing, make sure this is the outer dimension measurement, as it needs to fit the push connectors.
6mm to 8mm push to connect connectors, as seen here. N.B. my existing air line was 8mm od, so I got 6mm to 8mm, if you have a different size change accordingly.
Optional parts:
Following the instructible I got these, and had no idea why and no need for them. Mentioned here in case they are of use to some.
I'm assuming you have have existing co2 cylinder, hoses, taps etc. If you don't have a suitable tap something like this will work with a 8mm od hose.
In the first attachment you can see the parts put together. To the left of the tee connector is a 1/2" bsp to 1/4" push connect, unmodified. N.B. I then use a 6mm to 8mm connector to connect my air line, but if you prepare ahead you could just get a 1/2" bsp to {your air line outer dimension} push connect.
On the right hand side of the tee is a modified 1/2" bsp to 1/4" push connect (modification is detailed below). The beer line is pushed through this and goes left into the tee, and then angles down, coming out of the 1/2" bsp to 12mm barb, creating your spear to draw beer.
The second attachment gives a better look at the spear and the line going to the right has a 6mm to 8mm to go to my beer line with tap. Again I was following the instructible and wasn't prepared properly, and ended up with bits and bobs arriving on a slow boat from China over weeks as and when I realised what I needed.
In the third attachment I've removed the blue clip (which isn't functional and needs to be removed to allow the hose to be inserted and subsequently released. To release you push the white clip back and the hose slips out, I didn't know how to use these things so broke my first one trying to get the hose out with the blue clip still in) and the white insert from the connector on the left. Inside is a black rubber O ring which you can remove for protection while you drill out a hole from the other side. Once drilled put the O ring and the white clip back in.
In the fourth attachment I've drilled out the hole on the right hand side to allow the 6mm tubing to pass through.
Notes on assembly.
The 1/2" bsp connections need to be screwed in tight, and a bit of ptfe tape wont hurt. Initially I had problems with leaks and thought I needed some washers, but in the end I just needed to tighten them further.
Once all this is put together you have the grey bung in the mini keg, and the 12mm barb simply pops into this creating a pretty good seal (I've not gone above 10 psi yet, just tested it to make sure I could get gas in and that the tap worked).
The tubing/spear coming out the bottom should reach down to the bottom of the mini keg (mine keeps trying to return to it's coiled shape but it's operational, make it a bit longer if it does this). If you're priming your keg and just using the tap for dispensing you may want to add a filter of some type to the bottom.
Further Potential Modifications:
One thing I'm not overly keen on is once I have the co2 cylinder and tap connected I'm stuck with it. I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to put shut off valves in the lines so that you can disconnect each end.
Just ordered a couple of shut off valves.
Parts:
Bung, the grey rubber type with the plastic core plug, as seen here. On that site he has issues with the core plug and sands a bit off, what I do is put the plug in the top. So you can have a number of these grey bungs complete with plug for storage, then pull out the plug to use with the tap system.
3 way Tee connector, as seen here. Make sure you get one with female fitting on all 3 connections.
1/2" bsp male thread to 12mm barb, as seen here. You want toe 12mm barb so that the 6mm tube fits through to act as a spear, but with plenty space around it to allow co2 in.
1/2" bsp male thread to 1/4" push to connect, as seen here. You need to drill out a hole in one of them so some spares might be handy, but you'll need 2 at least.
1/4" (6.35mm) tubing, make sure this is the outer dimension measurement, as it needs to fit the push connectors.
6mm to 8mm push to connect connectors, as seen here. N.B. my existing air line was 8mm od, so I got 6mm to 8mm, if you have a different size change accordingly.
Optional parts:
Following the instructible I got these, and had no idea why and no need for them. Mentioned here in case they are of use to some.
I'm assuming you have have existing co2 cylinder, hoses, taps etc. If you don't have a suitable tap something like this will work with a 8mm od hose.
In the first attachment you can see the parts put together. To the left of the tee connector is a 1/2" bsp to 1/4" push connect, unmodified. N.B. I then use a 6mm to 8mm connector to connect my air line, but if you prepare ahead you could just get a 1/2" bsp to {your air line outer dimension} push connect.
On the right hand side of the tee is a modified 1/2" bsp to 1/4" push connect (modification is detailed below). The beer line is pushed through this and goes left into the tee, and then angles down, coming out of the 1/2" bsp to 12mm barb, creating your spear to draw beer.
The second attachment gives a better look at the spear and the line going to the right has a 6mm to 8mm to go to my beer line with tap. Again I was following the instructible and wasn't prepared properly, and ended up with bits and bobs arriving on a slow boat from China over weeks as and when I realised what I needed.
In the third attachment I've removed the blue clip (which isn't functional and needs to be removed to allow the hose to be inserted and subsequently released. To release you push the white clip back and the hose slips out, I didn't know how to use these things so broke my first one trying to get the hose out with the blue clip still in) and the white insert from the connector on the left. Inside is a black rubber O ring which you can remove for protection while you drill out a hole from the other side. Once drilled put the O ring and the white clip back in.
In the fourth attachment I've drilled out the hole on the right hand side to allow the 6mm tubing to pass through.
Notes on assembly.
The 1/2" bsp connections need to be screwed in tight, and a bit of ptfe tape wont hurt. Initially I had problems with leaks and thought I needed some washers, but in the end I just needed to tighten them further.
Once all this is put together you have the grey bung in the mini keg, and the 12mm barb simply pops into this creating a pretty good seal (I've not gone above 10 psi yet, just tested it to make sure I could get gas in and that the tap worked).
The tubing/spear coming out the bottom should reach down to the bottom of the mini keg (mine keeps trying to return to it's coiled shape but it's operational, make it a bit longer if it does this). If you're priming your keg and just using the tap for dispensing you may want to add a filter of some type to the bottom.
Further Potential Modifications:
One thing I'm not overly keen on is once I have the co2 cylinder and tap connected I'm stuck with it. I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to put shut off valves in the lines so that you can disconnect each end.
Just ordered a couple of shut off valves.
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