How to filter the my homebrew?

[SkyStar]

Hello everyone, as the title says i'm looking for some methods to filter the beer, actually it's my family memebers that would like to drink a clear brew, i 've done more than 20 brews and i don't have a clue about beer filtering, do you guys, use some particular items or substances in order to get a very clear beer at every spill?

 

[Halfacrem]

What's your current brewing regime? Probably best to know that before anyone can help further.

Are you currently using any finings? How long are you leaving the beer in Primary fermentation? Are you bottling or racking the beer to a keg?

Murky beer is quite trendy these days...:whistle:

 

[GlentoranMark]

Time and careful pouring usually does the filtering but I've filtered through a 10 micron filter although to kill yeast it has to be 0.5 micron. It worked via gravity but if you kill the yeast then you have to force carbonate in a corny keg.

 

[Fil]

it can be done with kegs and a 10" filter housing with an air bleed plumbed in between 2 kegs, you can use co2 and keg pressure to push the beer through the filter, but do it outside.. as the filter clogs up with debris it takes more and more pressure to push through and if you use too much the filter which isnt a high pressure device usually will spring leaks atomising beer into the atmosphere, if done inside can necessitate new wall paper/carpet/curtains if you dont like the whiff of stale beer..

it might be worth considering buying a 2ndary FV to rack the beer into after primary fermentation to act as a bright tank and let further sediment fall out.

and when racking for bottles and keg if using a siphon keep the dip tube an inch or two below the surface while being a pita will keep you from sucking any sediment mass up by accident until the last dregs..

try selecting a yeast strain that hugs the bottle bottom more, some sediment is inevitable with a live beer, afaik nottingham yeast is known for sticking to bottle bottoms

Also wise selection of bottles to avoid gluggers and a steady hand pouring the beer along with gentle treatment of bottles when moving can all contribute to a clearer pint.

However the best solution is an opaque quaffing mug, theres a lot of quality craft leather and wooden tankard options as well as the traditional pewter, IM happy with a pint sized soup mug when necessary

What you dont see wont distract you from the beers flavour and taste..

 

[Dutto]

I have never filtered and very seldom used finings on a beer. (They are sometimes provided as part of an AG kit.)

As far as I am aware, good brewing practices and patience is all that is required ... :thumb:

... and the secret is to have enough beer brewed to let it settle and condition on the shelf before you drink it! :thumb: :thumb:

My advice is therefore to get going with the next brew and leave the cloudy stuff in a cool dark place to clear on its own. :thumb::thumb::thumb:

 

[xdaver]

My Brews always drop clear. For Ag I use a protofloc tablet and for kits there's no need for any help just 2+2+2 timing.
The only filter I use slot is my liver :smile:

 

[Godsdog]

the footnote in the Dave Line book brewing beers like in the pub(I think) says don't make excuses for serving up a cloudy beer as your only giving away the best part of it,mind you he died at a very early age.never hurt me though and as others have said serve it up in an opaque quaffing jug,beggars aint choosers in my book as its all about the taste :drink::drink:

 

[meryvn]

Gelatin gets a good name at the brulosophy site, good instructions there on how to use it. I haven't tried it myself yet so don't know how it would effect bottle carbonation but they don't seem to think it would prevent it just probably slow it down.

Sent from my XT1092 using Tapatalk

 

[Slid]

Plus 1 on Fil's suggestion of racking to a secondary FV.

I have slowly gone from bottling cloudy kit beer at 7 days to racking everything after 2 weeks to secondary FV and bottling after a further week.

If you are brewing from kits, this will suffice in all but the warmest weather.

Easiest advice to remember is "Never, Ever, Bottle Cloudy Beer".

 

[HebridesRob]

Gelatin gets a good name at the brulosophy site, good instructions there on how to use it. I haven't tried it myself yet so don't know how it would effect bottle carbonation but they don't seem to think it would prevent it just probably slow it down.

Sent from my XT1092 using Tapatalk

I use gelatin when I feel like it matters. Just adding it to my king keg when I add the priming sugar gives good results. I've used it when bottling, which did clear the beer nicely but it left a sludge at the bottom of the glass which doesn't stick nicely.
I'm making a Kolsch style at the moment. When it's finished fermenting I'm going to transfer to a second vessel, add gelatin and cold crash/lager for a few weeks. When it's ready to bottle, I'll rack again, add priming sugar and Safale F2 to give it some yeast for conditioning. Will see how that goes. I think something like Kolsch should be as clear as possible.

 

[peteplus1]

Been good on the natural clearing front with my pale brews so far. I use a protofloc 10/15 mins before the end but other than that, just let them sit and wait in a cool dark place seems to do the trick. I bottle so pour carefully and leave the bit of gunk behind.

 

[MyQul]

If you able to, cold conditioning/lagering for a couple of weeks does wonders. Clearest beer I get when I do this and I normally get chill haze because I no-chill

 

[Dutto]

I went out to the garage, poured myself a glass of Bitter and photographed it to demonstrate how clarity can be achieved without filtering or finings; just be patient!

It looked great so I poured myself a bottle of Pale Ale and photographed that one as well.

It was only when I looked at the two photographs on the computer that I realised that I had better keep labelling the beers I make because although the taste is totally different you would need keen eyes to spot the difference from the colour! :whistle: :whistle:

The first pint below is the Bitter! :thumb: :thumb:

 

[JapanBrew]

I went out to the garage, poured myself a glass of Bitter and photographed it to demonstrate how clarity can be achieved without filtering or finings; just be patient!

It looked great so I poured myself a bottle of Pale Ale and photographed that one as well

Dutto is right. For last dozen brews I keep forgetting to put in my Irish moss. But my beers, with the exception of the wheat, are clear. But cold crashing is a big help. Also, I whirlpool before I chill and put in the FV. Big difference in the amount of trub in the FV. less than 10% from normal.

 

[SkyStar]

okay thank you all for your wonderfull advices! ill do as wrote, the best results that i can achieve is with time, patience, and cold conditioning!

 

[SkyStar]

I went out to the garage, poured myself a glass of Bitter and photographed it to demonstrate how clarity can be achieved without filtering or finings; just be patient!

It looked great so I poured myself a bottle of Pale Ale and photographed that one as well.

It was only when I looked at the two photographs on the computer that I realised that I had better keep labelling the beers I make because although the taste is totally different you would need keen eyes to spot the difference from the colour! :whistle: :whistle:

The first pint below is the Bitter! :thumb: :thumb:

What method are you using? The 2 pints of bitters comes from 2 different 500ml bottles? or both pints comes from the each bottle?

 

[Dutto]

Both beers were brewed and bottled within a fortnight of each other back in February.

If you look at the levels the Bitter is higher up the glass because it is in a slightly bigger (650ml) bottle than the Pale Ale bottle (500ml).

The Pale Ale was a partial mash and the Bitter an extract mash; both to my own recipes using the Brewers Friend recipe system. I have to say that the BF system was about spot on for bitterness and colour. The Bitter came in at a colour SRM (Morey) of 8.17 and the Pale Ale at 10.0.

For clarity I'm a great believer in allowing the beer plenty of time to ferment and partially clear in the FV before syphoning into a bottling bucket, adding the priming sugar and bottling; after that it's in the lap of the Gods how long it takes.

I do find that the beer clears quicker in winter than in summer which is probably due to a natural "cold crash" in my garage so I will utilise my new brewing fridge to (hopefully) get similar results this summer (when it arrives). :thumb: