How to avoid NEIPA oxidation?

[Clarence]

Nice idea @Clarence the only challenge is an NEIPA has a large dry hop, +200 grms of hop, that need to be added during fermentation.

Surely they're contained in a bag and pulled out normally before racking. Dry hops don't need to go in at the end, they can go in quite early; look at CML's procedure for Tropical England.

 

[The Baron]

A large whirlpool could be done instead of a large dry hop, I know it may not be as bold in flavour but mine are done that way and are bold enough for me.
When I do a dry hop I do it while the fermentation has dropped but still active say day 3 or 4 to combat oxidisation.
I do not know if that is a consideration for the OP

 

[Braumeister]

I’ve had lots of success with mega hoppy beers, and I don’t pressure transfer.

The keys things are:

Keep the fermenter sealed up with an airlock when fermenting. Don’t open it to check what is going on.

When you dry hop, you can just crack the lid open, throw in the hops and then close it again.

For mega hoppy beers I also dry hop in the keg. Putting them in a hop sock works fine, but I’ve also built a filter for the dip tube so I can dry hop loose in the keg.

If you’re cold crashing the fermenter then I highly recommend using a Mylar balloon partially filled with CO2 in place of the airlock.

Before transferring to the keg, purge it with CO2 - and by that I mean fill it with water/starsan and then push that out with CO2.

When you come to transfer, you can fill through the liquid out post of the keg if you want to, but I’ve found that unnecessary.

I have a tap at the bottom of my fermenter, and just run a length of tubing from that into the bottom of the keg, and I temporarily cover the keg lid opening around the tubing with some foil.
The CO2 doesn’t all immediately escape - there’s plenty enough to cover the beer while transferring, and obviously it is getting pushed out continuously by the rising liquid level. Just don’t stand around too long - the moment you’re done transferring get that lid on and some CO2 in the keg.

If you can fill the keg to the brim then that’s best, you’ll just need to blow a little out or your beer will struggle to carbonate.

Thanks this is helpful. How difficult is it to fill a mylar balloon?

 

[Braumeister]

A large whirlpool could be done instead of a large dry hop, I know it may not be as bold in flavour but mine are done that way and are bold enough for me.
When I do a dry hop I do it while the fermentation has dropped but still active say day 3 or 4 to combat oxidisation.
I do not know if that is a consideration for the OP

I do plan to dry hop but I think I’ll do like you say, while fermentation is still active.

 

[JockyBrewer]

Thanks this is helpful. How difficult is it to fill a mylar balloon?

Easy!

The balloon I use is connected to some 1/2” silicone hose. I just cut the filling valve off the balloon, stick the hose in and wrap with duct tape.

So I can either connect it to the fermenter during fermentation or stick some gas in it from my CO2 bottle.

 

[Bzee]

Might be worth adding later in the process then Anna?

I wonder why Genus brewing say to do that?

I wonder how many things I do as part of my brew day are superstitious and have less effect than I think.

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

I think you have to be very careful who you listen to

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Here is the video I was talking about. I think I misunderstood why they were putting it in the mash. I get it now.

Out of curiosity, what temperature do you store your neipas at?

 

[The Baron]

So basically it is useful for the modern day shorter boils to get the compounds missing from a long boil or decoction mash'
I will give it a try but how I will know if it works I do not know as I have never had storage issues with my beers

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Not a clue how you can tell - extra long shelf stability I guess? Generally speaking I do trust these guys though and so do a lot of other homebrewers and YouTube brewers.

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Several years back I did the tour at the York brewery. After the tour I had a couple of pints with the head brewer in the brewery tap. One topic we spoke about was boil length as I had cut from 90 mins to 60 mins a year or so previously and found no change in my beer. He told me they had tried the same, think how much it would cut a brewery electric bill, but had so many complaints from their customers they soon changed back. Cask beers were going off quicker and some of the bottle beers not keeping as well. His conclusion, after talking to other professional brewers, was the hot break had not been completed in 60 mins. I still boil for 60 mins but I will drink the beer in 2-3 weeks. If I am brewing a stronger beer for bottling and keeping for any length of time I will boil for 90 mins.

I found this from this thread and I thought it was relevant @the baron

 

[The Baron]

As I said I have never had a problem doing 45 min boils and any bottles left over from batches drunk months and months later do not seem to suffer but I am just at the point of doing 30 minute boils (electric)when I am whirlpooling only and will use the AA to combat from what some of the science is saying.
I will still do a 45 minute boil for Ales/Bitters and use AA too
Ps I have been using 2 to 3 grams at bottling and never had an issue as said previously

 

[aolcot]

Hi @Braumeister I have a SS brewtech chronical, rather than the bucket but I believe they have similar lids/seals. Whilst they aren't advertised as holding any pressure, they can hold 1-2PSI.
I made a simple modification to mine where I drilled into the domed lid and added a ball lock post. That way I can hook up my CO2 during cold crash (by turning on the CO2 to an incredibly low trickle, prob much less than 1PSI) and then increase it to about 1PSI for transfer.

Transfer is then an straight forward process to a purged corny, burp it for good measure and off you go. I've done NEIPA without any ascorbic acid and it didn't oxidize and was good for a few weeks.

Cost wise was probably about £20 for a stepped drill bit and a new ball lock post.

Edit: To add, I also block the blow off as well, because naturally the CO2 would just vent out otherwise

 

[Clarence]

Post #48
So after learning that he thinks there are two types of Vitamin C, that 3-5 grams in the mash is enough forvideo 20 gallons and that he doesn't fully understand the science, we're left wondering what we've gained from this video.

 

[Agentgonzo]

Post #48
So after learning that he thinks there are two types of Vitamin C, that 3-5 grams in the mash is enough forvideo 20 gallons and that he doesn't fully understand the science, we're left wondering what we've gained from this video.

That was what I remembered from watching it a while ago. Adding it to the mash purely based on this video sounds like snake oil.

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Post #48
So after learning that he thinks there are two types of Vitamin C, that 3-5 grams in the mash is enough forvideo 20 gallons and that he doesn't fully understand the science, we're left wondering what we've gained from this video.

An extra opinion is what we've gained, and not just one.

 

[Agentgonzo]

I found this from this thread and I thought it was relevant @the baron

I wonder how their brewery differs from other breweries where they only boil for 90 minutes? Maybe the one you visited in York had a more timid boil and so need longer to fully achieve the hot break?

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Not quoting myself @Agentgonzo

 

[Agentgonzo]

Not quoting myself @Agentgonzo

Good point . I fixed the post

 

[Tess Tickle's Brewery]

Just thought that post was worth sharing as ascorbs in the mash could be a possible advantage to prevent having to do longer boils. And also to minimise hot side aeration, which we all can't agree on whether, at a home brew scale, actually exists.