Hot tub in winter

[Wherrypuzzled]

Hi

Got hot tub 2 summers ago and kept it on during Winter using it only on New Years Eve - and it worked out at at least £7 per week

Havent been in it since Mid October but to have it properly drained to save the electric usage is around £350 which seems extortion and cheaper & to keep it running for 13 weeks (say) I would save over £250 lol

Just wondered if others have this (first world) problem and if anyone turns the heat right down to say 10c and just leaves theirs running or does something totally different

Cheers Wp

 

[ChilledGecko]

As you say, first world problems

When we had a hot tub it was 'just outside in the garden', with a raised decking platform around for easy access and placing of beer.
I was then commanded to cover it over to keep the rain off.
I then completely enclosed it complete with windowed walls and a door.

Through that process I noticed the running costs dropped by noticeable amounts each iteration.

I never dropped the temperature, though it did have an 'eco' mode that stepped the temperature back.

I guess what I'm saying is that where you have a temperature differential, hot tub water to outside air, you will lose heat.
As you reduce things like airflow (wind), box it in and the like the losses will reduce.

I just 'sucked it up' and mothballed it of we knew it wasn't going to be used for a week or two.

I found the water chemistry was a pain to keep on top of without adding temperature changes into the mix.

Why not try it, worst case, murky water leading to a water change I'd guess.

Have fun!

BTW, the hot tub shed is now my brew shed - result!

 

[Chippy_Tea]

They discussed hot tubs on 5 live not long ago, Tony Livsey said what I have thought for years why would anyone want to bath in someone else's dead skin.

 

[Horners]

Toxic sex pond

 

[The Baron]

I just empty mine in fact did the last weekend of bonfire night as it costs plenty to keep it on through the winter plus the water really does need changing after the end of summer I know you can use loads of chemicals to keep the water right but I still like fresh every season so come late easter it will be refilled

 

[Clint]

Why the large cost to empty it? Can't you bale it down the sewer?

 

[Wherrypuzzled]

Hi everybody and thanks for the input/replies

Clint - they come and in effect service it - push chemicals through the water to cleanse the pipes. I wrongly thought that just bunging the water down the drain was easy as I do that when I change the water but - it does not drain what is in the pipes and the pumps. You would think it would be designed to drain via the lowest point but NO. so yoy have to disconnect the unions and find the pump drains etc. Easy for most I guess but I once dropped my Clutch oil out of my car instead of the sump. I thought it looked clean so I am DIY averse

ChilledGecko - agree with what you say - I would prefer an indoor one and Mrs Wherry is pushing for something like that but it will come to 25k I bet for Conservatory - door into Bungalow and new windows all round to match. I agree as well keeping the water right particularly pH is a pain in the a**e. I bet loads of people put nothing in ever

The Baron - interested to know if you found it easy ? I know emptying IS easy but I am worried about getting all the water out of the Pumps and pipes. My model is one that either heats or blows so have an hour in there and in summer it might lose 1c and then turn off the Jets and the Heater kicks in. I have read that I can empty the Tub then empty the pipes by putting the jets on but is that how you did yours or do you a have Pump(s) and Heater on at same time please ?

Cheers everybody

 

[Clint]

Ah right...I wouldn't run the pumps "dry". I wonder if there's a drain point off a pump where you run it forcing the water out to a certain level,then add cleaner,recirc,then drain again...then top up.

 

[The Baron]

I just drain mine down it has a very low point of drainage on it. It probably does leave some in the pumps slightly but all I do on re-commission in the spring/Summer is as filling it up to let the first few gallons of water free flow out of the outlet with some cleaning fluid and then put in the granulated chlorine when full and also let a few gallons free flow through the system just to clean any residual cleaning fluid through it. I have had mine 17 years and regards servicing it has not needed any apart from common sense and replacing one pump ten years ago which I did myself.
Mine is self priming on the recommission so the pumps just prime themselves automatically - they go into a priming mode once filled up which shows on the system as (Pri)

 

[Leon103]

I just pump it all out and clean it myself.

 

[Pezza24]

£350 to empty a hot tub... I'm in the wrong game.

I know you have said your DIY averse but have a go and take your time. Will be fine and save you some pennies.

 

[Wherrypuzzled]

Hi Pezza24 - yes its a hell of a lot of Wherry Kits / Admirals Reserve kits and you might be right I should probably do it myself. At least this isnt like putting shelves up !

Using The Barons tips I will probably drain it myself as I have done when just water changing in summer (as the drain point is as low as it can be) and then run the Pump which hopefully will throw out most of the water in the Pump and Lines into the Tub and that can be mopped up

The rest is cleaning and I can then wrap the whole thing in Bubble wrap as they do as part of the £350 deal - and then order my 4th King Keg, 2 Admirals & 1 Brewfem Tripel for £100 ish

(Can you tell I am trying to convince myself LOL)

Cheers everyone for the help / suggestions

 

[The Baron]

If you are not able to isolate the heating element from the pumps which some can not be done i.e when you put power to the hot tub for the pumps you need to make sure the that the heater does not come on as it will be dry and may damage it.
If that is the case I would just drain it down once it has been powered off and do no more than mop it out so it is dry over winter. If any residual water is left in the pumps it will be chlorinated so will not stagnate and also you could overdose it slightly before draining down to make sure any water left is well chlorinated. The reason that they bubble wrap it is to stop the water left in the system freezing up and causing damage with expansion. I am guessing you have a wooden outer on the spa which has removable covers and all you would need to do is cover the pumps with some bubble wrap or a old blanket/duvet then put the cover back and this will protect anything from freezing up (it shouldn't anyway as they are well insulated with foam and cladding inside) but its just belt and braces in case we do get a rather harsh winter.
Do not worry about the residual water if any when you come to refill it just fill up add the chlorine and then only add the power once full
I have done this every year for 17 years and never had a problem, as regards lines and pumps needing cleaning I deem that as not essential as they have chlorinated water running through them which is there to kill any bacteria
Good luck I am sure you will do alright and save a few quid as well

 

[Wherrypuzzled]

Hi again The Baron and once again thanks for the reply

I have picked up more tips again from your reply and maybe still have one more question. I have a Sunshine Bay Hot Tub (Costco) and it has 1 Pump and a 2KW heater. It is a 13A Plug and Play and once the Pump runs it does 40 jets and 5 "fountains" but the Heater is isolated / cannot run - and vice versa - when I stop the Pump the Heater comes on (after a short delay)

So I was thinking that should allow me to pull out the plug - empty the Tub - plug back in and immediately run the pump which will disable the Heater - and the heater does take about 5 to 10 seconds to kick in in normal operation. That is if its dropped Temp a degree or 2 while we have been in and I stop the jets it will take 5 to 10 seconds to indicate the Heater has come on ? Does that sound like a plan to to you

If yes I will for sure dose up on Chlorine before emptying and then anything I cant get at will be less likely to freeze

Also I will as you suggestion bubble wrap the Pump and the pipes inside as well as belt and braces

I can get all 4 sides off and can insulate virtually everything inside and bought a huge roll of bobble wrap and a Tarp for over the lot

As you say and as a Yorkshireman ( Thorne quite close to you ) saving a few quid is a priority - I dont mind paying but thought 350 was way over the top lol

Cheers again JT

 

[The Baron]

Sounds good to me and a few quid in the pocket

 

[Wherrypuzzled]

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Could you just drain the thing mostly, then dump in a couple of gallons of polyethylene glycol, and run the pumps for a minute or two to mix it. Pumps won’t freeze with a 50% glycol solution in them (unless you live in Siberia).

 

[ppsmith]

Toxic sex pond

I'm sure I saw them supporting Slipknot once.

 

[ChilledGecko]

I used to just drain down and walk away to be honest.
As mentioned by @the baron any water left in the pump or piping will be well dosed with chlorine / bromine so the little that is left behind will behave itself.
Never had an issue with anything turning wiffy when I returned to it.

If it is a concern you can overdose the water an hour or two before draining and then run up the pumps for a minute or two.

 

[Wherrypuzzled]

ChilledGecko - yes that seems a sensible thing to do - I was probably remembering my DIY "track record" rather than my Chemistry as dosing it up with Chlorine granules before draining would ensure any water still in wouldnt freeze unless we got a really bad winter - and who knows we might get a really mild one

The Engineer that brews - another good suggestion thanks. I reckon dose up on Chlorine just before draining it as normal but then trying to drain as much of the remaining water in the pipes etc as I can and then lagging all the pipes and pumps as well. Any water left anywhere would have the Chlorinated water in it

Cheers again all