Heat Belts and FV Thermowells

[BeerCat]

I have an STC and if I remember correctly the earth wiring from the heating and cooling cables connect to earth, not the STC itself. If the heat mat doesnt have an earth it will not be earthed. . I'd suggest plugging them into a RCD if you want some protection, or that may already be included in your wiring if your home has been rewired fairly recently. Its now a legal requirement.

I worked in electricy and gas supply and networks for years including in health and safety doing reports to the HSE on electrical fires, deaths, carbon monoxide poisoning, etc. But then again, I wired my STC into an ice cream tub. It was meant to be just to try to wire it and then get a proper box for it but I never got around to moving it.

Cheers Ale, your absolutely right, dunno what i was thinking off. Its not earthed. We do have a board with lots of trips on but an RCD for each would be better. Something to think about. Thanks.

 

[Ale]

Cheers Ale, your absolutely right, dunno what i was thinking off. Its not earthed. We do have a board with lots of trips on but an RCD for each would be better. Something to think about. Thanks.

Maybe one RCD and a multi plug (strip ones are recommended these days rather than the cube ones) would be cheaper, the whole point of buying them is saving money.

 

[Dutto]

With the Inkbird STC 1000 controlling the fridge temperature I decided that I wanted the flexibility afforded by controlling my Heating Pad, so I bought one of these as a cheap and cheerful addition ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IL3IFNM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

... and hooked it up to a Heating Pad.

It has settings for "Heating" OR for "Cooling" and controls either parameter in 5 degree steps.

The probe was spot on for temperature (compared against an accurate glass thermometer) and as I will be using it to ferment/condition beer at 20 degrees or ferment wine at 25 degrees it will serve as a useful standby over the winter. :thumb:

 

[BeerCat]

Maybe one RCD and a multi plug (strip ones are recommended these days rather than the cube ones) would be cheaper, the whole point of buying them is saving money.

Thanks Ale good idea. Going to get one.

 

[BeerCat]

With the Inkbird STC 1000 controlling the fridge temperature I decided that I wanted the flexibility afforded by controlling my Heating Pad, so I bought one of these as a cheap and cheerful addition ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IL3IFNM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

... and hooked it up to a Heating Pad.

It has settings for "Heating" OR for "Cooling" and controls either parameter in 5 degree steps.

The probe was spot on for temperature (compared against an accurate glass thermometer) and as I will be using it to ferment/condition beer at 20 degrees or ferment wine at 25 degrees it will serve as a useful standby over the winter. :thumb:

Looks decent enough but i need more flexibility on temps. Have some at 19c, 23.5, 12c etc. Someone posted this before but not heard any feedback http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-L...20V-UK-J9Z1-/322026364908?hash=item4afa445fec
You can get an STC from China for under £7 now. I think if your using a heatbelt or mat in a cold environment you dont need to bother wiring up the chiller.
Also love the Inkbird PID as it tells you how many amps its pushing out.

 

[Ale]

I've got one that looks like this, but you need to buy a box, plug sockets, wiring, a plug, connectors and then build it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-T...hash=item2cb79c29f4:m:mB9nzYWOtVVzzwmb8RIwpiQ

If I was buying one now I would spend the extra on a ready made inkbird like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inkbird-I...279399?hash=item4b08fbfda7:g:llIAAOSwDuJWzAzc

While the first one works well, a ready made one is definitely my preference to having to do the wiring yourself and having an electrical item that is not PAT tested in the hope you havent made a mistake.

 

[shepp]

Just to say I bought one of the cheap heat belts from China for under a fiver and found it too hot running at 80 watts, for wrapping round a plastic FV.
So I rigged it up to a cheap lighting dimmer switch and it regulates the heat perfectly.
I actually have it regulated with an underfloor heating thermostat I had knocking about, but you can adjust the temperature with the dimmer switch if you are around to keep an eye on it.
I also covered the loose feed cables with braided sleaving because they looked a bit of a liability.

 

[BeerCat]

Just to say I bought one of the cheap heat belts from China for under a fiver and found it too hot running at 80 watts, for wrapping round a plastic FV.
So I rigged it up to a cheap lighting dimmer switch and it regulates the heat perfectly.
I actually have it regulated with an underfloor heating thermostat I had knocking about, but you can adjust the temperature with the dimmer switch if you are around to keep an eye on it.
I also covered the loose feed cables with braided sleaving because they looked a bit of a liability.

Cool mod. I was shocked at how hot they got with suck thin wire. The heat mats barely get warm yet they work fine so i think a heat belt is a bit overkill unless you drop the voltage like you have or buy a better one which are 20w (i think).

 

[nigelnorris]

Has to be the biggest benefit of a mat, all the heat goes upward where you want it. A heat belt just radiates the heat everywhere. My 20W one has turned out perfect for the garage mind, keeping a steady ferment temp in the garage when it's sub zero outside.

 

[shepp]

Has to be the biggest benefit of a mat, all the heat goes upward where you want it. A heat belt just radiates the heat everywhere. My 20W one has turned out perfect for the garage mind, keeping a steady ferment temp in the garage when it's sub zero outside.

It makes very little difference, as long as the belts not at the top of the FV.
The small differential in temperature within the FV caused by any heat source will cause a circulation of liquid and so all the wort will have an even temperature.

 

[nigelnorris]

It makes very little difference, as long as the belts not at the top of the FV.
The small differential in temperature within the FV caused by any heat source will cause a circulation of liquid and so all the wort will have an even temperature.

All I meant was that the belt radiates as much heat away from the FV as towards it, so half the energy is just wasted into thin air, which is probably why 10W mats work as well as 20W belts.

 

[shepp]

All I meant was that the belt radiates as much heat away from the FV as towards it, so half the energy is just wasted into thin air, which is probably why 10W mats work as well as 20W belts.

Right I see what you mean.

 

[BeerCat]

Has to be the biggest benefit of a mat, all the heat goes upward where you want it. A heat belt just radiates the heat everywhere. My 20W one has turned out perfect for the garage mind, keeping a steady ferment temp in the garage when it's sub zero outside.

Just to be sure your using a 20w reptile mat in the garage? My lager was fine outside with one but intend to move it all out there due to lack of space.
Not knocking heat belts i just wanted to save money on kit and use minimal energy. I have given up on the idea of using thermowells now unless i get a SS FV but would be a good idea to check the difference between the strip and the actual wort temp.

 

[nigelnorris]

Just to be sure your using a 20w reptile mat in the garage? My lager was fine outside with one but intend to move it all out there due to lack of space.
Not knocking heat belts i just wanted to save money on kit and use minimal energy. I have given up on the idea of using thermowells now unless i get a SS FV but would be a good idea to check the difference between the strip and the actual wort temp.

No I'm the other way round, I have 20W belt on the go. That can easy maintain 19C in the bucket when it's sub zero outside so I wouldn't be surprised if a mat with half the wattage did as good a job. I do have it wrapped in a sleeping bag, but that's as much to keep the creepy crawlies out as anything else.

 

[Ale]

I use a heat belt in my garage. Never had a problem with temp, even when its below freezing outside, but I did have to keep adjusting the height on the FV or loosen it a bit for changes in external temperature. I attached it to a STC1000 this winter and covered it in a blanket. Kept the temperature up perfectly. I also now have a fridge that will be used to make a brew fridge for the summer, so I will have heat and cooling on the STC1000.

 

[CraftyZA]

I bought a 14 watt reptile heater and stuck it on the inside of my fermentation fridge. Controlimg it with a stc1000 controler.
A 14 watt reptile heater can keep my fermentation fridge in the garage at 18 degrees, while it is -2C outside. Garage is open, so fridge was standin in sub zero temps.
Best of all, it cost me R180.
In gbp, that is like 5 quid. Maybe the price of a beer at your local pub.

 

[Dutto]

.......... it is -2C outside. Garage is open, so fridge was standin in sub zero temps.
Best of all, it cost me R180.
In gbp, that is like 5 quid. ............

R180?

Can't be Rupees at 1 GBP = R36 plus where in India is it -2 degrees?

It could be Roubles at that temperature but the exchange rate doesn't stack up.

Even my first choice of SA Rand is way out on exchange rate as well as the -2 degrees (it's summer down there).

And my last choice, the Malaysian Ringgit was equally adrift.

So where do you spend R180 to equal 5 GBP with -2 degrees outside? :???: :???:

 

[CraftyZA]

R180?



Can't be Rupees at 1 GBP = R36 plus where in India is it -2 degrees?



It could be Roubles at that temperature but the exchange rate doesn't stack up.



Even my first choice of SA Rand is way out on exchange rate as well as the -2 degrees (it's summer down there).



And my last choice, the Malaysian Ringgit was equally adrift.



So where do you spend R180 to equal 5 GBP with -2 degrees outside? :???: :???:

South Africa.
Conversion was not directly exchange related. Sorry if I gave that impression. I may be even dead wrong. We pay quite a bit more for certain items, so it is very likely that you will/can find a reptile heater for cheaper than what i paid. Perhaps you can check a local petshop and update me?

Then as for the minus 2. Indeed it is summer. I was merely highlighting it's performance on the coldest night from the last winter.

Garage is open, so fridge was standin in sub zero temps.
Best of all, it cost me R180.

(This was during cold front, and not the average sa temperature in winter. Our winters average between 3 and 8 degrees in gauteng.

Even 10.7GBP is not bad to keep a brew at 17 or 18C

 

[CraftyZA]

Ok with a little bit of checking i was not far of with my calculations:
Here is a 20watt pad for 7.85 pounds. 6 watts stronger than mine.


http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/282248696587?rmvSB=true&_mwBanner=1


Or:
15w for.... wait for it...

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301808822686?rmvSB=true&_mwBanner=1

 

[Dutto]

Ok with a little bit of checking i was not far of with my calculations:
Here is a 20watt pad for 7.85 pounds. 6 watts stronger than mine.


http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/282248696587?rmvSB=true&_mwBanner=1


Or:
15w for.... wait for it...

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301808822686?rmvSB=true&_mwBanner=1

WOW! For price, it beats the heck out of mine!

http://www.homebrewcentregy.com/electrim-heating-tray-for-5-gallons

The only thing I would worry about is will the eBay ones take the weight of a 25 litre brew!

I've had my pad for quite a few years now and when it's hooked up to the STC1000 it keeps the temperature of FVs and Kegs spot on.

BTW

I was in Wallis Bay, Windhoek and Swakopmund back in 1960 when (I think) the exchange rate was 2 Rand = 1 GBP.

At that time, my own wage was £9.11.8d a month! (A figure engraved on my heart!) :whistle:

Happy Days! :thumb: :thumb: