As long as you got a CO2 cover shouldn't be a problem, oxidation needs oxygen if I remember correctly from my school chemistry.
Take a whiff on day 10, it'll sting in your nose!
Have a go at simple AG
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Take a whiff on day 10, it'll sting in your nose!
I’ll go with this or the clingfilm idea I think.
Probably overthinking keeping it protected a little.. easy to forget a lot of beer is fermented in open top vats!
clib
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There's a risk of contamination in open vats or any form of openness and places that open ferment know what they are doing, what microbes are present and work hard to exclude others.
It's wise for us to be careful. Airlock, lid, bung, cling film, foil will all keep baddies at bay and allow gas to escape if used appropriately. A layer of CO2 sitting on the beer is good too to protect it from air.
Hoping to get this going tonight, depending on how quickly youngster goes to sleep.
1kg Maris Otter
EKG
M36 Mangrove Jacks yeast.
Hops are fairly low at 3.2% AA so inclined to stick 10g in with the boil and dry hop for flavour.
Excited to get it going!
1kg Maris Otter
EKG
M36 Mangrove Jacks yeast.
Hops are fairly low at 3.2% AA so inclined to stick 10g in with the boil and dry hop for flavour.
Excited to get it going!
Good news… youngster was fast off to asleep and I’ve cracked on with brewing.
I have mashed, boiled and cooked. Just preparing to transfer to FV and pitch the yeast.
I seem to have a very clear separation between clear wort and ‘stuff’ at the bottom. How much of the grub should I be transferring to the FV?
I’m thinking sling it all in as it will likely settle out just as it has here?
I have mashed, boiled and cooked. Just preparing to transfer to FV and pitch the yeast.
I seem to have a very clear separation between clear wort and ‘stuff’ at the bottom. How much of the grub should I be transferring to the FV?
I’m thinking sling it all in as it will likely settle out just as it has here?
After a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
Last edited:
This is bubbling away nicely.After a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
View attachment 91652View attachment 91651
I ended up with 5.5 litres in the end, less than expected but forgot that previously I had used smaller grain quantities and DME. I suppose next time I'll start of with 10l.
NB. The bucket looks big but it's only 10l capacity. And the lid is bulging so the beer is well protected. Yes, I use an airlock.
Last edited:
Nice picturesAfter a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
View attachment 91652View attachment 91651
What's the plastic cube you mentioned for cooling?
Large plastic food grade water containers/cubes - can't remember what name they are sold under. But seems to be the goto for no-chill (slow chill?).
Thanks. What's the principal behind how they work?
Freezing the whole thing and then pour in the wort?
No - sanitize, just pour in hot wort and leave in a cool place, overnight or for longer. Pour into FV pitch yeast. Don't need to use lots of water for cooling.
See thread here: Dropping the temp
You only need a cube if you are going to store your wort for a while (days) before begining fermentation.
My no chill method is to leave in the kettle for a hour or so, then go directly from kettle to plastic FV. Leave overnight & add yeast when cool enough.
My no chill method is to leave in the kettle for a hour or so, then go directly from kettle to plastic FV. Leave overnight & add yeast when cool enough.
I'm ready to try my first all grain brew after x10+ LME kits.
I have a 20L+ Stainless steel stove top stock pot and am looking to buy a 5L kit.
I have a grain bag and all the other kit required.
I've found GET 'ER BREWED provide 5L kits but wondered if anyone could recommend other UK companies for small kits?
I'm sure I'll progress to bigger batches but want to take this small step first.
Much appreciate any advice, thanks folks
I have a 20L+ Stainless steel stove top stock pot and am looking to buy a 5L kit.
I have a grain bag and all the other kit required.
I've found GET 'ER BREWED provide 5L kits but wondered if anyone could recommend other UK companies for small kits?
I'm sure I'll progress to bigger batches but want to take this small step first.
Much appreciate any advice, thanks folks
Brewbros do a good range of 5/10 litre kits
Once you have done an ag kit to see how it goes, it's easy to just order bags of grain.
Then after a few like that you'll be ordering a sack
Then after a few like that you'll be ordering a sack
kenstel
Well-Known Member
For the benefit of others like me who don't know who this refers to, it's Brew Bros Shop | Home Brewing Kits, Supplies and Equipment | All Grain
My search for Brewbros turned up this, an e-liquid supplier and a bespoke coffee supplier, amongst others.
A process of elimination soon led me to compiling a list of kits...
I've just started my own AG brews and found it super easy just to get a bag of pale ale malt (helpfully sold in 1kg lots at most places), a sachet of yeast and some hops. Fuggles / EKG a good place to start for a pale ale SMaSH?
However, Crossmyloof do a bunch of 1 gallon kits. Loads of different styles and they're quick and easy to deal with :)
https://www.crossmyloofbrew.co.uk/
Good Luck! :)
Many thanks. Crossmyloof certainly have a great range.
clib
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I still mostly do stove top brewing all these years later. I do have a share of a Mundschenk with two mates, and use that sometimes. I have a good quality 20 litre stock pot now though and it's my preferred way of brewing., sort of in-grained all grain I suppose. I use an even simpler, quicker method now, so here is the original recipe with the slightly revised method...
2. Pour in the pale malt while stirring - get rid of lumps. The temp will drop a few degrees.
3. Leave for 20 minutes and then heat slowly to about 76/78C.
4. Stir well and remove the bag, allowing it to drain (place in a colander on the pan if you have one that fits).
5. Bring to a boil and add 5-10g bittering hops. 10g for low AA% hops, 5g for high AA%.
6. 30 Mins later switch off and add 5 to 10g of hops (use a hop bag if you wish), depending on your hoppiness requirements.
7. Cool the wort in sink immediately, with lid on, and drop it to 30-40C.
8. Add to sterilised bucket via sterilised sieve (if you're not using hops bags) to catch hops, and top up the level to 5 litres if necessary. Or just leave it in the pan with a lid on. I did that first time, years ago. Fermented in the pan. Had no FV.
9. Pitch around 3g of yeast when the wort is around 20C.
If your pan isn't big enough to hld 7L plus grain, mash with half the water and sparge with the other half - heat it to 80ish and pour it through the grain, sat in a colander placed on your main pot.
I actually mash in at 50-55C with hot water straight from my combi boiler and start raising the temp straight away, on the lowest heat setting. But i'm doing 15-20 litre batches. A 5L batch will heat too quickly, I reckon.
I don't know if this will help anybody and I'm sure some people will question the method but after years of stove top brewing this system works for me. It's very easy and it gets good results. The first time I did the rising temp thing it was an accident, I turned the gas down to minimum instead of turning it off and didn't realise until the mash had hit about 80C. I thought |I'd ruined the beer but it turned out great, and crystal clear, and I got high efficiency.
Cheers.
- 1kg base malt
- One packet of hops
- One packet of yeast
2. Pour in the pale malt while stirring - get rid of lumps. The temp will drop a few degrees.
3. Leave for 20 minutes and then heat slowly to about 76/78C.
4. Stir well and remove the bag, allowing it to drain (place in a colander on the pan if you have one that fits).
5. Bring to a boil and add 5-10g bittering hops. 10g for low AA% hops, 5g for high AA%.
6. 30 Mins later switch off and add 5 to 10g of hops (use a hop bag if you wish), depending on your hoppiness requirements.
7. Cool the wort in sink immediately, with lid on, and drop it to 30-40C.
8. Add to sterilised bucket via sterilised sieve (if you're not using hops bags) to catch hops, and top up the level to 5 litres if necessary. Or just leave it in the pan with a lid on. I did that first time, years ago. Fermented in the pan. Had no FV.
9. Pitch around 3g of yeast when the wort is around 20C.
If your pan isn't big enough to hld 7L plus grain, mash with half the water and sparge with the other half - heat it to 80ish and pour it through the grain, sat in a colander placed on your main pot.
I actually mash in at 50-55C with hot water straight from my combi boiler and start raising the temp straight away, on the lowest heat setting. But i'm doing 15-20 litre batches. A 5L batch will heat too quickly, I reckon.
I don't know if this will help anybody and I'm sure some people will question the method but after years of stove top brewing this system works for me. It's very easy and it gets good results. The first time I did the rising temp thing it was an accident, I turned the gas down to minimum instead of turning it off and didn't realise until the mash had hit about 80C. I thought |I'd ruined the beer but it turned out great, and crystal clear, and I got high efficiency.
Cheers.
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Many thanks.
What is your total mash time?
Do you sparg after draining?
I'm ready to Stove top boil a 1 gallon grain kit.
Matt
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