Going biab. But what kit?

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No idea. I used my camping one last time which is tiny. But that was enough and still plenty left in that. But bought a 13kg canister the other day which I will now use for brewing. So had one upto now. Will keep a tab of how many I get from it. I got my pan from powellbrewing off internet. Really good. When I upgrade to a big shed I'll be getting a mash tun from there too I reckon and going down that road.
 
View attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426845786.958495.jpg

Had this at weekend. Really nice. Not a massive fan of super hopped beers usually but that was really good. Wondering if I could maybe try making a super hoppy beer as my first BIAB experiment and if so any ideas. My kegs will both be full after this brew that's currently on but was thinking I'll utilise about 30 500ml bottles I have with something.
 
Don't really know al lot about super hoppy beer (as I don't like them) but I remember posts from Rodwha investigating doing this and one of the things he found (if I remember correctly) was that it'sbetter to add the bulk of your hops as later additions. More than that I can't add re super hoppy beers but It's a start :thumb:
 
Cheers. And I've never been a fan either myself. But a made had those in fridge and having tried one was really nice. Just thinking maybe something hoppy for summer to sit in the fridge. But I'm more an ale/bitter drinker.
 
Summer Ale

Original Gravity (OG): 1.036 (°P): 9.0
Final Gravity (FG): 1.009 (°P): 2.3
Alcohol (ABV): 3.54 %
Colour (SRM): 7.5 (EBC): 14.8
Bitterness (IBU): 28.3 (Average)

99.35% Maris Otter Malt 3.67kg
0.65% Black Malt 0.024kg

23g Northern Brewer (8.7% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil)
8.7g Fuggles (6.4% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil)
4.6g Styrian Golding (4.18% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Boil)


It actually comes out more like 23-25 IBU because I get lower hop utilization because I don't do a full boil
 
If you do want to go for this you can make a full 23L brew doing maxi biab (concentrated wort diluted in the FV), which is what I do. I have a 20L pot that I put on the gas hob


I have heard about that, it does sound an alternative way, do you still mash with a full grain bill in that pot? (I assume would that be pushing it too much?) or do you mash in a separate tun
 
I have heard about that, it does sound an alternative way, do you still mash with a full grain bill in that pot? (I assume would that be pushing it too much?) or do you mash in a separate tun

I mash in the pot but I can only do maximum strength beer of about 5.5% because I cant fit all the grain plus enough water to mash in the pot. If I used a mash tun or a bigger pot (like the 30L one that is being proposed) I would of course be able to make a bigger maximum beer
 
Right. So forget my oversized pan and if I wanted to do the recipe you state. What volumes are we talking and brew times? Basically the process needed to do as not done one before. Sorry to sound thick.
 
Right. So forget my oversized pan and if I wanted to do the recipe you state. What volumes are we talking and brew times? Basically the process needed to do as not done one before. Sorry to sound thick.

The receipe is for an AG 23L brew but it doesn't matter whether you do full boil (like you) or maxi-biab (like me). We will still mash the same amount of grain but you will end up with more wort than me because mine will be concentrated and I then dilute it in the FV (similar to extract brewing I believe).
Where as you will have the 23L + boil off + grain absorbtion (the grain absorbtion and boil off amount is unknown to me as I dont do full boil) and after the boil you should end up with exactly 23L of correct SG wort wheras I end up with 16L-17L of concentrated wort which I dilute in the FV.

Hopefully that is clear about the difference between the two BIAB techniques. Boil time will still be the same for both of us (60mins) so will mash time (well actually I only mash for 40mins but anything from 40mins to 90mins will do)
 
I guess I'd just top up in the FV to 23 litres to make up for anything lost in the boil. So basically I'd mash the lot in 23 litres of water and then boil what's left and top up to 23 liters when all done.
 
Right. So forget my oversized pan and if I wanted to do the recipe you state. What volumes are we talking and brew times? Basically the process needed to do as not done one before. Sorry to sound thick.

I am taking a rough guess here as I am yet to do a full scale BIAB myself

I would say to mash in your grain KG x 3 so for this you could mash in say 12 litres to round up.

Sparge with 12-15 liters top this up so you have a boil volume of about 25 litres possibly 26? then boil off and trub and cool off you will lose a few litres.

As I say I have only done partial so not entirely sure on exact figures.
 
A:I guess I'd just top up in the FV to 23 litres to make up for anything lost in the boil. B:So basically I'd mash the lot in 23 litres of water and then boil what's left and top up to 23 liters when all done.

A:Only if you get your calculations wrong

B: For a full boil BIAB you calculate how much water the grain will absorb you also calculate how much water is lost during the boil (boil off) and add these two calculations to you brew length, in this case 23L. So if for example the amount of grain absorbs say 1.5L and during your hours boil you lose say 5L you will mash with 1.5L + 5L +23L = 29.5L of water
 
A:Only if you get your calculations wrong

B: For a full boil BIAB you calculate how much water the grain will absorb you also calculate how much water is lost during the boil (boil off) and these two calculations to you brew length, in this case 23L. So if for example the amount of grain absorbs say 1.5L and during your hours boil you lose 5L you will mash with 1.5L + 5L +23L = 29.5L of water


In corovich's calculations above he has added a sparge, whereas here I haven't to keep things simpler. If you were to sparge you need to incorporate those figures into your calculations
 

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