Fridge conversion question.

[Wrongway]

I am thinking of getting a fridge, preferably a second hand one for holding a fermenting vessel and or a Corny keg. I am hoping an under the counter size would be big enough. What I am wondering is how to get the cable for the small heater into it as well as the temperature probe. I am a bit worried about drilling a hole anywhere as I expect there are coolant pipes buried in the walls etc. al over the place. I am not bothered about fitting taps etc as I only intend using it for storage/fermentation. I have a 5ltr Corny in the kitchen fridge for dispensing. Any suggestions fro fridge drillers appreciated. :)

 

[strange-steve]

There is a drain hole at the back of the fridge which should be big enough to get the cable through.

 

[Bigjas]

I bought a second hand fridge and put the cable for the heater through the drain hole at the bottom of the back wall of the fridge. The thermometer cable just runs through the door opening. Get one without the ice making compartment.

It works really well with my inkbird

Jas

 

[Wrongway]

Do all fridges have a drain hole to the outside or only frost free types. From what I can see on Google its a very small hole something like 1/8" or so. I doubt I would gat the mains cable from the heater as well as the temp sensor lead out of that. Did you widen the hole?

 

[Bigjas]

I have two brew fridges and the both have a hole that is approximately 1/4 inch diameter. The heater cable fitted easily but I couldn't get the thermometer cable in there too. Not sure if all fridges have this hole?

 

[chuffer]

I just simply let the cable dangle to the bottom and close the door. The seal just seems to close around well enough....all's been well so far but I've just been using it too keep brews cold....not sure if I'll have the same success in the winter when I'm trying to keep the heat in it

 

[Wrongway]

I'll add one of those small greenhouse heaters also. Seen a few mentioned in here so will have a good look around.

 

[Leon103]

All fridges have holes and if yours isn't big enough I would drill it slightly bigger. The concern I would have is if you would fit fv and a cornie in a under the counter type plus would you want your cornie sitting at fermentation temp?

 

[Wrongway]

All fridges have holes and if yours isn't big enough I would drill it slightly bigger. The concern I would have is if you would fit fv and a cornie in a under the counter type plus would you want your cornie sitting at fermentation temp?

I didn't think of that. But two fermenters is a possibility though. The main thing will be if it's tall enough. A full size tall fridge may be a bit much.

 

[Wabby]

I didn't think of that. But two fermenters is a possibility though. The main thing will be if it's tall enough. A full size tall fridge may be a bit much.

I can get two JUST in a 3/4 high fridge.

You will NOT get anymore than 1 in an under the counter fridge. And it will be full at that.

 

[Leon103]

You need to consider the fact that you will have a shelf for the heater to sit on which takes up toom

 

[Wrongway]

I have seen a few photos, on here I think, that show the heater bolted to the bottom with a small shelf above for the fermenter. But going to do a bit of careful measurement before deciding on fridge size.

 

[Budgie]

Not sure if this is of any help or not, but here's a pic of my fridge. 60w tube heater from Toolstation. I stuck the mounting brackets to the bottom with silicone. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p32265?table=no

The FV sits nicely on the bottom shelf with plenty of space for the airlock above so I didn't need to make any kind of shelf. The heater doesn't come with a plug attached so it was easy enough to feed it through the drainage hole at the back.

 

[geetee]

I just simply let the cable dangle to the bottom and close the door. The seal just seems to close around well enough....all's been well so far but I've just been using it too keep brews cold....not sure if I'll have the same success in the winter when I'm trying to keep the heat in it

Works for me too and I run two pipe heaters into the fridge through the door seal. I also use a piece of gaffer tape to just keep the seal from popping open as a safeguard but not really needed.

I had though of cutting a channel about 1/2 inch wide in the door seal with a junior hacksaw but not really needed at the moment.

I just lie one heater on the shelf alongside the FV and one on the shelf above to keep the temp constant!

 

[Wrongway]

Thank's Budgie, Geetee thats been very helpful. I will try for the vent hole at the back first. I have a new fermenter coming today, one of the SS Brewmaster buckets and I need to measure it before deciding if an under the counter fridge will be tall enough with heater underneath. I can use a blow off tube in preference to an airlock if I need. I didn't think I would need two heaters Geetee, in fact I was aiming to select the smallest wattage I could find which seems 40 to 45 watt. I assumed the insulation of the fridge would keep temperature quite well.

 

[Spoon]

I doubt I would gat the mains cable from the heater as well as the temp sensor lead out of that. Did you widen the hole?

It should fit comfortably, the greenhouse heaters are about as powerful as a small lightbulb, I was going to run the temperature probe through the hole too, but it wasn't long enough. If I ever get bored I plan to get some 5 core wire and use two of them for the temperature probe.

 

[Jakeyboi]

So I'm looking at building a fermenting chamber, I want the option to crash chill and lager so prob need to bypass the fridge stat. Has anyone tried to do this? Any tips and advice?

 

[chewie]

So I'm looking at building a fermenting chamber, I want the option to crash chill and lager so prob need to bypass the fridge stat. Has anyone tried to do this? Any tips and advice?

Look at getting an inkbird temp controller, there in the region of £30 pre wired. If your handy with a few tools you can make up your own. The inkbird comes with a heating and a cooling socket, plug the fridge into your cooling socket disconnect its thermostat and plug whatever heating element you install in the fridge into the inkbirds heating socket. Whatever temp you set on the inkbird is the temp the fridge will stay at as long as its within the parameters of the heater and the fridge motors output.

 

[Jakeyboi]

Yeah that's what I'm looking at chewie except I'm tight and gonna buy the £10 DIY version, my only concern is disconnecting the fridge stat, I'm guessing you just join the two wires connected to the stat together?

 

[chewie]

Most stats are just a simple switch, the only issues you might run into is where there are relays or similar if its a frost free fridge, I'm no fridge engineer but if you are in any doubt get someone in who is qualified, mine is just a case of disconnecting the stat and caping the wires, the motor will run then until Inky tells it to stop.