peterpiper
Regular.
I'm a bit disappointed by the whirlpool arm. It doesn't actually seem to get much of a whirlpool going at all. I've seen there are modifications you can do to improve it though.
Whirlpool eems feeble to me aa well. And, with the central drain, unless you have the HED you're probably wasting your time.
I'm now trying stirring with a wine degasser drill paddle, to both give a good vortex and to oxygenate the wort. But to achieve the latter, paddle needs to be near surface to pull in air (opposite to wine de-gassing), but that can then splash a lot. The boil tube extension can help catch splashes.
........ I'm going to buy a BT thermometer because there's such a difference between the bottom plate temperature and the grain bed, and I need to fiddle with the PID calibration. I've seen people mention they're able to achieve <0.5 difference in their mash when they get it right.
Highly recommend the BT thermometer, to me this serms the biggest improvement introduced.
It's amazing what the difference in temperatures can be between the inbuilt sensor, and the grainbed, and how long the latter takes to catch up.
I now use profiles that give an alarm once grainbed temperature reaches 3°C below the step temp, (when I start a manual step timer). This alarm typically comes 15 to 20min after the step starts, depending on recirculation rate. So adds to the the brew time, at every step.
I'm now starting to wonder if the recommended temperature figures are actually correct, when you're measuring grainbed temp. Those figures, came from a time when plotting grainbed temperature, vs recirculated wort temperature, would have been very difficult.
Prior to BT probe, I got fine brews, with much quicker mash times. Since using BT, I've had a few brews that haven't fermented down to expected FG, and maybe taste of dextrins. So maybe my 'accurate' temperatures are now actually too high?
The PID has to be right for the particular mash volume, and recirculation flow rate.
Even if inbuilt sensor, stayed within 0.1°C of target when using PID, there's no saying what the actual grain temperature is.
So get BT; turn off PID; set diff to 5°C; and adjust heater power depending on recirculation rate (maybe 35% if rate slow).
Higher diff will achieve target bed temp quicker, but there's more risk of wort enzymes being de-natured (higher risk at slow flow rates, where wort could stay hotter for longer).
Calibrate inbuilt sensor at cold water and boil temps (as BT is main control of the mash temp).
Power down the BT probe before removing it (for drain and boil when it would be in the way) so control reverts to the inbuilt sensor.
Insert probe after dough-in, then power it on a minute later, once it's warmed (to have consistant temperature graphs).