Filtration

[woody1959]

I am planning on filtering an Ale through a 300 micron mesh filter when kegging

Will that also remove all the yeast, IE will I have to force carbonate in the keg as opposed to a secondary ferment?

 

[user 18729]

Why filter to then secondary ferment? If you’re going to do that filtering wouldn’t achieve much

 

[woody1959]

I used hop pellets instead of hops and they disintegrated leaving the brew full of "bits", my bad, should have put them into a basket but I just plain forgot

 

[user 18729]

Ah okay! If you are able to cold crash then hop pellets drop out completely

 

[terrym]

I am planning on filtering an Ale through a 300 micron mesh filter when kegging

Will that also remove all the yeast, IE will I have to force carbonate in the keg as opposed to a secondary ferment?

No. Yeast cells are only a few microns in size and will certainly pass through your filter, although you should trap the hop bits. If you want to minimise yeast going forward into your keg, just leave the beer in the FV for longer and perhaps crash cool for two or three days before you keg if you have a cold place, i.e. time, gravity and patience.

 

[woody1959]

No. Yeast cells are only a few microns in size and will certainly pass through your filter, although you should trap the hop bits. If you want to minimise yeast going forward into your keg, just leave the beer in the FV for longer and perhaps crash cool for two or three days before you keg if you have a cold place, i.e. time, gravity and patience.

I want to keep the yeast cells for secondary fermentation, I just want to lose the hop bits
Thanks for your answer, sadly I can't cold crash or I would.

 

[The Baron]

as Terry says I use a hop spider and that is 300 microns and all it takes out is any obvious debris and will not touch the suspended yeast as it will easily go through the fine mesh. the only way is to buy a proper beer filter which are sold by some suppliers and really it needs to be done under closed transfer to minimise oxidation. The real answer is time and by the way if you are doing really hoppy ales they generally will not drop clear fully

 

[The Baron]

woody if you have a garage with a concrete floor it will cold crash your beer but maybe not quite as good as a dedicated fridge thats what I do and my normal beers drop clear especially with a little conditioning time again hoppy beers are a different matter hence the hazy beer fashion

 

[woody1959]

as Terry says I use a hop spider and that is 300 microns and all it takes out is any obvious debris and will not touch the suspended yeast as it will easily go through the fine mesh. the only way is to buy a proper beer filter which are sold by some suppliers and really it needs to be done under closed transfer to minimise oxidation. The real answer is time and by the way if you are doing really hoppy ales they generally will not drop clear fully

My hop spider is what I am going to filter through, thanks :) I haven't done it before so didn't know the answer.

No garage or concrete floor

Yes..yes..it was a horrible feeling as soon as I put the pellets in the realisation the hop spider was still on the table lol

 

[The Baron]

I use the hop spider to filter as I transfer to the FV it just get a little extra trub out.You could leave the beer outside overnight if you have a safe which will help especially in the winter. I have done this when I no chill if i have brewed late at night. Or you could put the FV in one of those rubberised trubs that some people buy from such as Aldi, Wilko B&M etc which you fill with cold tap water and stand the FV in it also add some ice cubes or 2 litre pop bottle frozen solid into the water to bring the temperature down, this can also be used for fermentation temp control too and works well

 

[woody1959]

I use the hop spider to filter as I transfer to the FV it just get a little extra trub out.You could leave the beer outside overnight if you have a safe which will help especially in the winter. I have done this when I no chill if i have brewed late at night. Or you could put the FV in one of those rubberised trubs that some people buy from such as Aldi, Wilko B&M etc which you fill with cold tap water and stand the FV in it also add some ice cubes or 2 litre pop bottle frozen solid into the water to bring the temperature down, this can also be used for fermentation temp control too and works well

Once again, thanks for all the suggestions, I can't "cold crash" kegs, but that's not an issue, I brew ales and they are happily stored and drunk at room temp.
I have both time and patience, on average it's 3-4 months from the time I keg until I start to drink an ale so plenty of time to clear.
All I want to do is to remove the hop pellet debris from my brew, all the rest, well time, patience and serving it through a bouncer inline filter with a 178 micron screen works.

 

[terrym]

Once again, thanks for all the suggestions, I can't "cold crash" kegs, but that's not an issue, I brew ales and they are happily stored and drunk at room temp.
I have both time and patience, on average it's 3-4 months from the time I keg until I start to drink an ale so plenty of time to clear.
All I want to do is to remove the hop pellet debris from my brew, all the rest, well time, patience and serving it through a bouncer inline filter with a 178 micron screen works.

If you are leaving your dry hopped beers for 3-4 months from kegging to drinking you may well have lost some if not all the effect of the dry hopping process. I have certainly noticed this in the past. I suggest you sample along the way to see if this is the case for your beers.
And in terms of clearing, I bottled a slightly yeast hazy beer six days ago into clear PET. The yeast was CML Cali Common which for me doesn't pack down too well. Bottles have been stored in a centrally heated room. In that time it has fully carbed up and almost fully cleared, and I may well be opening the first sampler later today.

 

[woody1959]

I reverse filtered through my hop spider and that stopped all the hop debris.