Fermzilla 30L All rounder ?

[Bertie Doe]

Doubt any harm done, once went to 35 psi when spunding valve not able to work due to my setup error.

Higher pressure seems to mitigate against the side effects of higher temps.

I use this calculator
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/and set the final spunding pressure for the vols I'm aiming for at the temp that the brew is at that time.

Hence if I want to have a beer at 2.4 vols and fermenting at 23 celsius using calc above get a pressure of 29.16 psi this seems high.

But when this beer is cold crashed to 6 celsius ( try it in the calculator yourself ) you'll see the pressure falls to 12.6 psi.
You don't have to spund or release for the pressure to drop as the pressure drop occurs as the CO2 above the wort goes more into solution as the temp falls.

FWIW I don't bother very often with a blowoff tube I just leave the prv open and then spund if the krausen out of control and likely to bubble out.

Might be worth standing your all rounder in some water in a bin perhaps might be a good fit and that would help to keep it cooler. You should try and get it all as cool as possible before bottling otherwise you will get a lot of foam. I use the williams warn counter pressure filler, but that could cope with the higher temps and pressure as it really is sealed until the capping moment.

Thanks I've saved that Calculator to faves and also thanks to Dave for the Brewgoat link. It does seem like your 6C cold crash is a good target to aim at. My all-rounder is brewing in the bath. Room temp has only dropped to 24C and the spunding valve is still holding 8 ppsi..

I do have some heavy duty rubble sacks and enough space in the deepfreeze to hold eight 2 litre empty ice-cream tubs, which I will fill with water. The night before bottling, I'll gently lower the AR into the sack and add the 8 blocks of ice. I'll report back, regards Paul.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

How about just stacking the ice boxes around the AR and then just wrap the whole lot up in some bubble wrap and blankets. That'll do it without having to move the fermenter and stir it all up.

 

[Bertie Doe]

How about just stacking the ice boxes around the AR and then just wrap the whole lot up in some bubble wrap and blankets. That'll do it without having to move the fermenter and stir it all up.

Yep I'll try that, I do have an old duvet and sleeping bag that'll do the job. I'm thinking 12 hours should get the temp down.

 

[Bertie Doe]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...&terminal_id=499e31125c0240c495700c1943b87a03

Ping Mash Monster. We both have the same beer gun. Am I correct in saying that you have a 'T' piece inserted in your gas tubing, with one tube going from CO2 bottle to the gun and another going to the gas connection on the All-rounder?

I couldn't find an exact YouTube vid to confirm this but this one's close (although he is bottling from Keg and he's using a Blichman Gun).



If you pause at 46 seconds, you'll see the T piece in question. Does anyone know where I can get them. I believe they're the push-fit type, which I'd prefer over the brass tapered ones. TIA Paul

 

[Bertie Doe]

Ok I've answered my own question. It's a 'Push-fit equal Tees' made by John Guest, Flomasta and Hep20, although the latter may require a special key. Available in Home Brew suppliers and also in Toolstation and Screwfix. Anyway, I'll do a post-mortem after I bottle. Cheers.

 

[Bertie Doe]

But when this beer is cold crashed to 6 celsius ( try it in the calculator yourself ) you'll see the pressure falls to 12.6 psi.
You don't have to spund or release for the pressure to drop as the pressure drop occurs as the CO2 above the wort goes more into solution as the temp falls.

FWIW I don't bother very often with a blowoff tube I just leave the prv open and then spund if the krausen out of control and likely to bubble out.

Might be worth standing your all rounder in some water in a bin perhaps might be a good fit and that would help to keep it cooler. You should try and get it all as cool as possible before bottling otherwise you will get a lot of foam. I use the williams warn counter pressure filler, but that could cope with the higher temps and pressure as it really is sealed until the capping moment.

Thanks RWB, just an update : I started my 1st A-R brew 9 days ago and have kept it to 9 lbs psi since. It's a Proper Job IPA recipe. Original gravity was 1040.
My Picnic tap bundle has arrived and I've taken a sample and the gravity is 1009, it was quite foamy. I'll check again in 3 days time. Meanwhile I have 8 x 2 litre tubs of ice in the deep freeze with a view to cold crash. The question is, the sample is very clear, so is there any other benefits to cold crashing, other than beer clarity? TIA.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Thanks RWB, just an update : I started my 1st A-R brew 9 days ago and have kept it to 9 lbs psi since. It's a Proper Job IPA recipe. Original gravity was 1040.
My Picnic tap bundle has arrived and I've taken a sample and the gravity is 1009, it was quite foamy. I'll check again in 3 days time. Meanwhile I have 8 x 2 litre tubs of ice in the deep freeze with a view to cold crash. The question is, the sample is very clear, so is there any other benefits to cold crashing, other than beer clarity? TIA.

You may find that the clear beer goes cloudy when you chill it due to the formation of cold break; and part of the idea of cold crashing is to precipitate out this cold break material

 

[Bertie Doe]

You may find that the clear beer goes cloudy when you chill it due to the formation of cold break; and part of the idea of cold crashing is to precipitate out this cold break material

Ah thanks, I meant to say that I did add 4gr Irish Moss to the last 10 mins of boil. I will use the ice and wrap with blankets and bubble as suggested by RWB above. I'll start the cold crash about 18 hours before bottling. I'm hoping only half the ice melts during that time. Regards Paul

 

[Mash Monster]

Ok I've answered my own question. It's a 'Push-fit equal Tees' made by John Guest, Flomasta and Hep20, although the latter may require a special key. Available in Home Brew suppliers and also in Toolstation and Screwfix. Anyway, I'll do a post-mortem after I bottle. Cheers.

Hi I use a slightly different approach I use a plastic tee with 2 carbonation caps on top of the AR. I connect the CO2 to one and the bottle filler to the other seems to work for me.

 

[Bertie Doe]

Hi I use a slightly different approach I use a plastic tee with 2 carbonation caps on top of the AR. I connect the CO2 to one and the bottle filler to the other seems to work for me.

Very neat indeed. Hopefully I'll be trying the new bottling gun in 3 days, if the sg remains constant. BTW, I had a swig from the hydrometer jar (as you do) and found it quite drinkable. Not bad considering this has only been brewing for 9 days. Pre A-R I'd be taking the 1st reading after 3 weeks.

It may be a reflection on the fact that I've been brewing **** beer for the last 30 years, or maybe pressure brewing adjusts the chemistry somehow. I've read that it enhances hop flavours. With this IPA I used Cascade, Chinook and Willamette plus Mangrove Jacks West Coast yeast.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

My fermentations normally complete in 5 or 6 days with no call for pressure fermenting, although I do normally leave them in the FV for another week or so to clear down before kegging.
Personally I'm not a big fan of heavily hopped beers though, so maybe that's why I haven't had any need for it.

 

[SteveB.]

Just a question regarding the all rounder 30l. Anyone know the maximum amount of wort that can be fermented in it? Will it ferment the full 30l of wort? Has anyone tried doing it? I've brewed a couple of 21 litre batches under pressure but want to know what the actual limit for this kit. Ideally enough for 1 19l corny and 1 9l cony.
Cheers.

 

[fgoulding]

The maximum I’ve done is 27L and that was fine. Of course you’ll still end up with trube that will reduce your yield.

You’ll definitely need some headspace but I don’t know what the minimum would be.

Also, I might be a bit reticent opening the AR for dry hopping with any more than 27L as the wort does rise once you release the pressure and pop the lid.

 

[SteveB.]

Thanks for the info fgoulding so I should be ok for 28l. I don't dry hop in the fermenter as I prefer a hop stand instead. .

 

[fgoulding]

It could be very tight but I reckon it's possible. I would go with no pressure on day 1 (with a fully open sounding valve) but keeping an eye on the krausen. Then I would start adding pressure which seems to keep the krausen a tad lower. These days I mostly ferment without pressure but in your case I think that I would.

However, I wouldn't try this with an imperial stout or a very high gravity beer as you might have a rocket on your hands .

So, let us know how you get on. I'll also keep an eye on the news in case a Sputnik type of projectile gets spotted in the skies above cheltenham

 

[Bertie Doe]

Just a question regarding the all rounder 30l. Anyone know the maximum amount of wort that can be fermented in it? Will it ferment the full 30l of wort?

Yes I think it will do 30 litres. I've just brewed 29 litres of Pils. Following on from fgoulding and Dave_77s in another all-rounder thread, I brewed for the first 3 days at 0 psi, mainly to reduce frothing on bottling.

Thanks fgoulding for your freezing the bottles tip, very little frothing today, although the rubber washers on my swing-cage bottles, may suffer

 

[fgoulding]

Brilliant! Glad it worked :)

 

[HarryFlatters]

I had krausen escape from my spunding valve when I made 27 litres of dunkelweisse, but wheat beers go off like a rocket.

I might get another all rounder, I think pressure fermenting is brilliant. Turned around a Mexican lager in 8 days grain to glass, it's a game changer for things like that.

 

[fgoulding]

I now have 2 All Rounders because I needed to speed up production

I use one AR in a fermentation fridge for brews that need to be fermented colder with traditional yeasts.

Then I have another one that I use with a heat belt and a Fermizilla All Rounder jacket for kveik yeasts where I find it easier to keep the ferment above 30C. I don't have cooling for that one, so this time of year I can stick it outside or just nab the fridge for a couple of days when I need to cold crash.

 

[SteveB.]

I won't be making any wheat beers just ales or IPA of about 6% so will try a 28l batch next. Hopefully the krausen will stay lower than the gas out. If it gets too high then I'll increase the pressure with the spunding valve. I always connect the gas out of the AR to the beer out of a corny keg and the spunding valve to the gas in post. That ensures there's enough pressure for closed transfer and purges the keg of air. In fact enough gas is produced by the yeast to pressurise two kegs
Thanks for the help guys