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My issue with switching to stainless steel is temperature control, as while I would possibly find one to fit inside my brew fridge, that would mean selecting on size not features. Realistically switching to SS means also investing in a glycol chiller/heating setup, or water pump with a jacketed fermenter. Either way at domestic homebrew scale I just can't see how I can make it work. Now with a bigger set up yes, fine.
If you can get an insulated jacket for a stainless steel fermenter there is no need for a fridge. I just got this little 12 volt unit, the Thermenter King Max. Will take you well down in temperature, don't really need to go much below freezing so only a drop of glycol is needed. When you aren't using it pack it away, far less space and more convenient than a fridge.
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If you can get an insulated jacket for a stainless steel fermenter there is no need for a fridge. I just got this little 12 volt unit, the Thermenter King Max. Will take you well down in temperature, don't really need to go much below freezing so only a drop of glycol is needed. When you aren't using it pack it away, far less space and more convenient than a fridge.
Oh the joys of living in Australia! I live in Scotland, half the time my 'fridge' is heating rather than cooling 😀
 
I am after one of these when they come out - Bucket Buddy. Reasonably priced stainless steel basic fermenter but with temperature control (just heating though), and a rotating racking arm too. We only have one brew fridge and we both can't use it at once lol.


These look interesting, I’ll have a closer look when they start to become available.
 
I am after one of these when they come out - Bucket Buddy. Reasonably priced stainless steel basic fermenter but with temperature control (just heating though), and a rotating racking arm too. We only have one brew fridge and we both can't use it at once lol.


Oh that gives me an idea! I could use my bewzilla as a heated fermenter now that it is 'spare'. I had been planning on using it as a sparge heater, but it could be a way of experimenting with Kveiks ...hmmm
 
My 30 litre plastic buckets are well overdue for replacement as the lids are in shreds. I reckon they're getting on for about 30 years old originally from the Braithwaites' Hop and Grape. Looking for similar buckets to replace them with.
I replace my plastic buckets with plastic buckets when they are badly scratched. I then drill holes in the base and plant spuds in them. Simple.
 
Stainless steel fermenters for me because I no chill.
Straight from my all in one at end of boil into the fermenter to chill overnight, add yeast in the morning and stick the whole thing into my ferminator for around 10 days.
 
I nearly tried this aaaages ago (fermenting in the BZ) - I couldn't figure out how to keep the air out though. Might be a pain to clean too.

I do think the heat is too near the yeast though and will cause off flavours, or possibly kill it. You can see an imprint of the element on the bottom of the Brewzilla when you have finished brewing. In effect you are just heating the bit where the yeast cake is, as you're not recirculating.
 
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The power of the Bucket Buddy heater element is 35W so when switched in it gradually warms. Most AIO systems will be 2-3 KW so when they are powered on they get super hot almost immediately and will likely kill the yeast.
Indeed. A PID temperature controller might mitigate that if modulates turning the element on and off faster than it takes it to get up to full temperature. Possibly.
 
I nearly tried this aaaages ago (fermenting in the BZ) - I couldn't figure out how to keep the air out though. Might be a pain to clean too.

I do think the heat is too near the yeast though and will cause off flavours, or possibly kill it. You can see an imprint of the element on the bottom of the Brewzilla when you have finished brewing. In effect you are just heating the bit where the yeast cake is, as you're not recirculating.
Ah so several steps ahead of my thinking 😁 !

Well whate about recirculating for a 72 hour-ish fermentation, there's no reason you couldn't recirculate, even if dry hopping providing there was a filter. It would work much like a stir plate, and I'd imagine a much faster fermentation. I've too many things I'd like to try at the moment but it's definitely intriguing.
 
I think your way is way past what I'm capable of thinking of. My brain doesn't do working out mechanical solutions like yours Anna lol 🥰

I'd be worried about the yeast getting through the drain hole and getting fried though lol. I guess it'd need blocking up, but then it couldn't recirculate. If the wort/beer is running over the element then the yeast is too. This kind of problem solving is beyond me.

Wasting my time and money on something that might have to get tipped is a huge concern for me too. The husband would kill me 😂

Nothing wrong with experimentation though to see what happens. Other people's advice is not always right.
 
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Most of my kit was bought following advice from this forum! clapa athumb..

I started with round HDPE 30L Speidels, they have been in constant use since 2015. Brilliant kit, but, have treated them with kid gloves to prevent scratching inside. Put taps on the top for blow offs and salvage CO2 during fermentation. I then re-introduce this when kegging to back flush the cornies. I repair the seals with superglue.

Also got Brewbuilder conicals with castors and use with CIP. They are perfect for me. Got Acask piped jackets that I used for chilling beer pins in our restaurant pre-pandemic. I also use my modded brandel sub-zero glycol chiller with them. currently got 110 liters of Hell's(;)) Lager conditioning at 2*C at the moment.

I think the bottom line is that HDPE FV's are cost effective, but more susceptible to scratching and harbouring nasties. SS is expensive for good kit, can be easily CIP'd However, you get used to dangerous chems and pumps. Had a beer shower or two and gave my eyes a caustic wash,,, I'm very careful now and still learning! Cheers stay safe:hat:
 
Anna that's a brill idea' i still have my klarstein fullhorn maybe just maybe, it might work athumb..
It would be easy to do, but don't use the element, wrap a Keg Land 30 watt heat belt around the bottom, insulate the heat belt onto the kettle knock up a racking arm and control the heat belt using a Keg Land temperature controller. You could even make a temperature probe casing to go from the lid into the fermenting liquor. Also insulate the vessel. Pretty much what I do with my plastic buckets.
 

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