Fermenting fridge - questions
- Thread starter Robbo100
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rpt
Brewing without a hat
There's a massive difference between some code and circuit diagrams and a finished product that you can sell, plus all the approvals and liabilities.
It's also not in the spirit of Raspi and Open source/GPL software 
I agree that it can be done easier but if you want to learn to program or the process then having something you can apply it to and it being your hobby is invaluable.
I agree that it can be done easier but if you want to learn to program or the process then having something you can apply it to and it being your hobby is invaluable.
Vossy1
Landlord.
I think our previous sponsor Tim @ Cedaronics looked into this and the cost to bring it to market was beyond economical.
![BREWING THERMOMETER STICKERS ACCURATELY MONITOR FERMENTING BEER & WINE LIQUID TEMPERATURES 5PCS HOME BREW SPIRITS WINE LCD ADHESIVE [US]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/311DDjo2X3L._SL500_.jpg)
Vossy1
Landlord.
Indeed
My Fermentation Fridge arrived last night (Hotpoint RLAV21)! :thumb:
It isn't perfect, since the box at the bottom is quite large, but I was given it for free by a mate, which was an unexpected and very welcome treat!
12" heater should arrive tomorrow from ebay.
I have one question: I plan to put the heater and theremometer wires through the drain hole at the back of the fridge (as suggested on other threads), but what do people do for their air-lock? With the high compressor box of this fridge, there is insufficient space above my FV to fit the air-lock device. Do people just let their brew vent into the fridge with something loosly covering the hole in the lid, or do they make something more sealed (e.g. adapting the air-lock with some flexible pipe to route it to somewhere else in the fridge?
It isn't perfect, since the box at the bottom is quite large, but I was given it for free by a mate, which was an unexpected and very welcome treat!
12" heater should arrive tomorrow from ebay.
I have one question: I plan to put the heater and theremometer wires through the drain hole at the back of the fridge (as suggested on other threads), but what do people do for their air-lock? With the high compressor box of this fridge, there is insufficient space above my FV to fit the air-lock device. Do people just let their brew vent into the fridge with something loosly covering the hole in the lid, or do they make something more sealed (e.g. adapting the air-lock with some flexible pipe to route it to somewhere else in the fridge?
I don't bother with an airlock, just leave the lid slightly loose (i.e. not snapped down) on one side. I have had a few ferments crawl out so I have a blow off tube at the ready if it looks like its going that way :thumb:
That is a great little fridge Robbo. To eliminate loss of space due to the compressor bulge you can build a little platform to sit your FV on.
I also don't bother with an airlock. It is even less necessary in the sealed environment of a fridge IMO.
I also don't bother with an airlock. It is even less necessary in the sealed environment of a fridge IMO.
rpt
Brewing without a hat
As already said you don't need an airlock. You will want to seal the hole though. Alternatively, you could run a tube to a bottle containing water or Starsan solution. This acts as an airlock and could also be a way to let any blow off go where you want.
I don't have a hole for my heater and thermometer wires; they just sit in the door seal. Perhaps not ideal but it has worked well for 14 brews so far.
I don't have a hole for my heater and thermometer wires; they just sit in the door seal. Perhaps not ideal but it has worked well for 14 brews so far.
Thanks.
I need to get this beer fridge going soon. I just opened a very young beer (only been in bottles for 10 days), and it has a hint of TCP to it. I think this is caused by my fermentation temperatures being too high.
I had problems with the yeast not starting off because the FV was in a room at about 17 deg C, so I used a fan heater directed on the FV to get things going. It was set to thermostat mode, but I think I have cooked my yeast!
Hopefully it is simply because the beer needs a lot more conditioning, but I am not holding my breath!
The sooner I get the fridge going the better!
I need to get this beer fridge going soon. I just opened a very young beer (only been in bottles for 10 days), and it has a hint of TCP to it. I think this is caused by my fermentation temperatures being too high.
I had problems with the yeast not starting off because the FV was in a room at about 17 deg C, so I used a fan heater directed on the FV to get things going. It was set to thermostat mode, but I think I have cooked my yeast!
Hopefully it is simply because the beer needs a lot more conditioning, but I am not holding my breath!
The sooner I get the fridge going the better!
rpt
Brewing without a hat
TCP flavours are often caused by chlorine or chloramine in the water. Did you treat it with a campden tablet?
I also made a bit of a ****-up with my hops, but it is the same ****-up that I have made before (at least I am consistent), owing to my writing the hop schedule down wrong in brewmate. However, last time I made this particular clone, I made the same mistake and it tasted OK (just not quite like the beer I was cloning).
rpt
Brewing without a hat
If you are using tap water then you might as well use a campden tablet as they are cheap.Robbo100 said:
Right then - the software is finished (although I may do a bit of fiddling to add a few features over the coming weeks). Anyhow, below are a list of features (I am quite proud of what I have achieved,
Especially since I hadn't written anything in Python before Christmas):
- The fridge controller is built upon my existing boiler controller code, and the software automatically detects if the device is connected to the boiler/HLT or the Fridge and runs the appropriate code. I have also added error checking and reporting for the thermometers, so the users knows which one is broken or unplugged.
- At startup the user selects the number of days that are required for fermentation.
- next, the device cycles through each day, asking the user to set the desired fermentation temperature.
- when complete, the device saves the above data to a file, so that it can be automatically recovered in the event of a power failure to the device.
- whilst active the device works without user intervention, to regulate the wort temperature to the appropriate temperature for each given day.
- the device display cycles through a range of parameters (showing each for 8 seconds), such as temperature data, target temperatures, remaining days, current day, fridge/heater status, and the date and time of the last power interruption (if any).
- the device includes fridge compressor protection, so that the fridge can never be turned on within 3 mins of it being turned off.
- the device data logs all of the key parameters and displays them on a graph to any computer on your network via your web browser. Currently it is set to log every 5 mins.
I am currently doing a 10 day test with no fridge or heater connected, to make sure it doesn't have any bugs, and then I will do a real test with a FV full of water in the real fridge.
Fingers crossed it all works fine. I will report back when I have the results.
Especially since I hadn't written anything in Python before Christmas):
- The fridge controller is built upon my existing boiler controller code, and the software automatically detects if the device is connected to the boiler/HLT or the Fridge and runs the appropriate code. I have also added error checking and reporting for the thermometers, so the users knows which one is broken or unplugged.
- At startup the user selects the number of days that are required for fermentation.
- next, the device cycles through each day, asking the user to set the desired fermentation temperature.
- when complete, the device saves the above data to a file, so that it can be automatically recovered in the event of a power failure to the device.
- whilst active the device works without user intervention, to regulate the wort temperature to the appropriate temperature for each given day.
- the device display cycles through a range of parameters (showing each for 8 seconds), such as temperature data, target temperatures, remaining days, current day, fridge/heater status, and the date and time of the last power interruption (if any).
- the device includes fridge compressor protection, so that the fridge can never be turned on within 3 mins of it being turned off.
- the device data logs all of the key parameters and displays them on a graph to any computer on your network via your web browser. Currently it is set to log every 5 mins.
I am currently doing a 10 day test with no fridge or heater connected, to make sure it doesn't have any bugs, and then I will do a real test with a FV full of water in the real fridge.
Fingers crossed it all works fine. I will report back when I have the results.
Titch
Landlord.
Wow well done that man
I should also add that my system is not limited in temperature range (I believe the STC1000 can only go down to 12 deg?). The device will low you to use any range the fridge and heater can manage (although I have set some sensible limits to stop the fridge from melting).
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