Does fermentation temperature make a difference

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Sounds good. Some people think that these types of flavours are a defect but I think it adds character. I drink ale rather than lager because it has more character.

yup - I've not had that much fruit in beer, but I do like it. I ferment at 22 deg c tops I'd love to try 24-26 to get more fruit flavours in beer , instead of adding a shed full of citrus hops :-)
 
yup - I've not had that much fruit in beer, but I do like it. I ferment at 22 deg c tops I'd love to try 24-26 to get more fruit flavours in beer , instead of adding a shed full of citrus hops :-)

I dont think you'd even need to ferment at 24-26. If you used a fruity/estery English strain and fermented at 22C you'd get loads of esters I think, as a lot of strains have 21C/22C as the top end of thier fermentation temp range
 
I recently did a saison that I started at 24°c and stepped up over a few days to 28. Held it there until it had finished, and it tastes marvellous. As has been said though, make sure the yeast can handle it....
 
I guess like the other aspects of the recipe i.e. what malts, hop balance, %alc, the yeast plays an equal part in what is created and is down to personal preference.

Hi Andy
Yes I'd agree but I've learned from experience that it doesn't matter how good a recipe is, if you can't control the fermentation temp someway or another, chance are you will get off flavours and it won't be as good as it could have been.
 
I've found that fermentation temperatures have a huge impact on my beers. I only brew extract and kit beers and have noticed a huge reduction in "home brew twang" when I've managed to keep temps below 20 degrees.

As you'll see in my US-04 thread I have got huge amounts of banana esters from brewing in a slightly higher temperature range. In addition, it seems to have gotten stuck at 1.030 whilst I was on holiday where my flat would have been at about 16 degrees!
 
Are there any British ales which use American 2-row and 6-row malts?
 
In addition, it seems to have gotten stuck at 1.030 whilst I was on holiday where my flat would have been at about 16 degrees!

In my experience, unless it's a lager yeast or a specific low-temp yeast, you risk getting stuck brews if the temp drops below 18c. I normally aim for 19c or 20c, using a trug & fish tank heater to warm things up, and I stop brewing in July & Aug unless it's cool.
 
Are there any British ales which use American 2-row and 6-row malts?

I've now realised that British base malts are also occasionally referred to as "2-row" which is maybe slightly confusing as I thought it was specifically American. Seems unlikely that any commercial British brewers would use imported base malt then.

I've always used extra light Maris Otter (on the recommendation of a local brewer). I'm now wondering if that's in an attempt to make it more similar to American 2-row as they brew quite a lot of American-influenced beers.
 
I have heard of people using lager malt to get closer to US 2-row. Optic and Pearl might be an option too.
 
In my experience, unless it's a lager yeast or a specific low-temp yeast, you risk getting stuck brews if the temp drops below 18c. I normally aim for 19c or 20c, using a trug & fish tank heater to warm things up, and I stop brewing in July & Aug unless it's cool.


I just stuck a thermometer in the fermenter to get an accurate temperature reading. It's currently 19 degrees so I'm certain that it would have been at least 2 degrees cooler whilst I was away. I've just rehydrated and pitched a half pack of US-04 that I've had lying around. Let's see if that and a slightly higher temperature kicks it off again!
 
My STC-1000 has arrived so able to compare with MH1210A.
STC-1000 has on/off button, MH1210A has reset button.
STC-1000 has two relays, MH1210A has one relay.
STC-1000 can heat and cool, MH1210A can heat or cool.
Some small differences in range -40ºC~120ºC ; measurement error: ±0.5ºC; -50ºC~99ºC ±1ºC(-50ºC~70ºC) Blue STC-1000.
Working environment : temperature : - 20ºC~70ºC ; humidity : 90%RH none moisture condensation ; 0ºC~60ºC 20~85% Again STC-1000 in blue.
With the STC-1000 you have to go into menu to alter temperature. With the
MH1210A you can set limits in menu and set temperature without going into menu.
Main difference as far as brewing goes is the slewing range of temperature or differential set value what ever you want to call it.
STC-1000 min 0.3°C and MH1210A min 0.1°C this will really change the hysteresis effect.

I still think the STC-1000 is better as it will work heater and fridge. However the slewing range means that you can really only control air temperature if using same device for heating and cooling. I prefer to measure fermentor temperature if doing that with heater and fridge you would need two units.
 
I dont think you'd even need to ferment at 24-26. If you used a fruity/estery English strain and fermented at 22C you'd get loads of esters I think, as a lot of strains have 21C/22C as the top end of thier fermentation temp range

I've tried most of the fermentis range none of them have that big fruitiness i'm looking for. Willing to try another brand, but i'd prefer good attenuation than a lower abv sweeter beer. any thoughts?
 
I've tried most of the fermentis range none of them have that big fruitiness i'm looking for. Willing to try another brand, but i'd prefer good attenuation than a lower abv sweeter beer. any thoughts?

Danstar Windsor and Mangrove Jacks Dark Ale are supposed to be quite estery/fruity (I've never used either btw) but both don't have a particularly high attenuation (around about 66%-70% I believe for both). However you could go half and half with US-05/Notty to get the attenuation down.

I used Mauribrew 514 over the summer and mostly brewed stouts. They have a big blackberry/dark plumb fruity smell but don't particulary taste that fruity (to me anyway) but the taste could be masked by the roastyness of the stout. I suspect the stouts are so fruity because the temp I brewed at was at least 25C sometimes rising higher
 
Danstar Windsor and Mangrove Jacks Dark Ale are supposed to be quite estery/fruity (I've never used either btw) but both don't have a particularly high attenuation (around about 66%-70% I believe for both). However you could go half and half with US-05/Notty to get the attenuation down.

I used Mauribrew 514 over the summer and mostly brewed stouts. They have a big blackberry/dark plumb fruity smell but don't particulary taste that fruity (to me anyway) but the taste could be masked by the roastyness of the stout. I suspect the stouts are so fruity because the temp I brewed at was at least 25C sometimes rising higher

cheers, that gives me an idea for a beer - think i'll call it 'bizarre plan'
 
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