Disconnects for Keezer

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Bakey

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Apr 20, 2020
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Hello all, I'm planning my keezer build and have a question about beer out corny disconnects. Should I run a 3/16 line from the keg to the tap, or a 3/8 line from the keg to a reducer and then 3/16 to the tap?
 
From what I have seen (I have all the bits for my keezer, just need to build it...) you'll likely need to reduce to 3/16 in some way or another. I couldn't find (or didn't look hard enough) any 3/16 JG fittings to go on to the tap shank.
I have some of these so I don't need to cut short lengths of 3/8. Don't trust me though, I'm yet to learn through the experience of actually putting it all together.
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/john-guest-3-8-stem-x-3-16-pushfit-reducer/
 
I should add, I have a JG 3/8 push fit on my tap shank, and threaded disconnects, so I'll have a 1/4 threaded to 3/8 pushfit on each disconnect, then the 3/8stem > 3/16 pushfit in that, with 3/16 line (length as required by beer style) to anoth 3/16 pushfit to 3/8 stem into the tap shank.
That's the plan anyway.
 
G’day Bakey, I dont speak this ?/16” language but I have lost a lot of gas from using quick connects! My advice would be to use all hard fittings with barbs etc on your draught system. My first setup used 6.8kg of gas in three weeks, now that will last me a year. I also dont use those fancy looking gas manifolds anymore for the same reason. O-rings dont like being cold and moved, they have poor memory. Oh and I’d use the small dia. line in one piece, there are line length calculators on the net for your preferred temp and CO2 levels, my 2c…. Cheers scomet
 
I should add, I have a JG 3/8 push fit on my tap shank, and threaded disconnects, so I'll have a 1/4 threaded to 3/8 pushfit on each disconnect, then the 3/8stem > 3/16 pushfit in that, with 3/16 line (length as required by beer style) to anoth 3/16 pushfit to 3/8 stem into the tap shank.
That's the plan anyway.


From what I have seen (I have all the bits for my keezer, just need to build it...) you'll likely need to reduce to 3/16 in some way or another. I couldn't find (or didn't look hard enough) any 3/16 JG fittings to go on to the tap shank.
I have some of these so I don't need to cut short lengths of 3/8. Don't trust me though, I'm yet to learn through the experience of actually putting it all together.
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/john-guest-3-8-stem-x-3-16-pushfit-reducer/
Thats what I have done athumb.. and all works brilliantly, no leaks so far (6 months) and dead easy to setup.
 
Thats what I have done athumb.. and all works brilliantly, no leaks so far (6 months) and dead easy to setup.
Good stuff, pleased to hear that befor I go ahead and assemble mine. Just waiting for half a day to become free so I can buy the wood for the collar and cut it the same day to save it warping.
 
G’day Bakey, I dont speak this ?/16” language but I have lost a lot of gas from using quick connects! My advice would be to use all hard fittings with barbs etc on your draught system. My first setup used 6.8kg of gas in three weeks, now that will last me a year. I also dont use those fancy looking gas manifolds anymore for the same reason. O-rings dont like being cold and moved, they have poor memory. Oh and I’d use the small dia. line in one piece, there are line length calculators on the net for your preferred temp and CO2 levels, my 2c…. Cheers scomet
I heard (I think on here) that barbed fittings were more prone to leaks, particularly if the line is not cut cleanly? So if you don't use disconnects, do you have barbs directly on, for example, your kegs? What happens when you want to disconnect them?
Over here in the UK, the 3/16, 3/8 lines and connections are the most readily available, though I do hate imperial measurements asad. I plan to use those line length calculators you mention. Annoyingly the ones I have come across give meansurements in "old money".
 
Good stuff, pleased to hear that befor I go ahead and assemble mine. Just waiting for half a day to become free so I can buy the wood for the collar and cut it the same day to save it warping.
If I can give any advise it would be to make sure the beer/gas lines are cut cleanly and that they're pushed in very firmly to the JG speedfits, I also purchased the C clips Here (link) that stop them pushing in by mistake.
 
Hello all, I'm planning my keezer build and have a question about beer out corny disconnects. Should I run a 3/16 line from the keg to the tap, or a 3/8 line from the keg to a reducer and then 3/16 to the tap?
You can't run 3/16 directly to the keg or tap because, annoyingly, tap and keg fittings don't exist in that small size so JG reducers are a fact of life. In simple terms you go like this:

keg ->
disconnect with 1/4 MFL ->
JG 1/4 FFL to 3/8 push fit (PI4512F4S) ->
JG push fit 3/8 to 3/16 stem reducer (PI061206S) ->

[ some length of 3/16 line, at least 1 meter ] ->

JG push fit 3/8 to 3/16 stem reducer (PI061206S) ->
3/8 to 5/8 shank adapter to the tap (PI451215FS)
 
So if you don't use disconnects, do you have barbs directly on, for example, your kegs?
I use quick connects with flare fittings & a swivel nut and flare for the kegs gas and beer. For the gas manifold I use barbed T pieces daisy chained all with step-less compression clamps make sure you get the correct size clamps. Oh I have a seperate 6.8Kg gas bottle I using for brewing (they're cheap these days) Hope this answers your question...
 

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this is all v interesting stuff, I am using JG quick disconnects with line reducers to 3/16 and 6ft of line between keg and tap in my keezer (also through a 3 line manifold). all fine so far and no leaks that I can tell, its been c 3 months and c 4 kegs so far. I was going to go for barbed fittings but on ordering from BrewKegTap I was recommended by Jonny to go for JG as they are less prone to leaking. Guess its all about how careful you are in setting up etc but must say the ease of push fit is a big bonus too.

cheers all
 
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