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Fermentis advise not to rehydrate their yeasts, I have always thrown US05 and S04 straight in with no issues.

I also pitched M44 direct the day before yesterday and it was bubbling away in under 24hrs.
 
Fermentis advise not to rehydrate their yeasts, I have always thrown US05 and S04 straight in with no issues.

I also pitched M44 direct the day before yesterday and it was bubbling away in under 24hrs.
Fermentis say, on the sachets, to simply sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, but their website gives detailed instructions on rehydrating. I always rehydrate as a matter of course, but wouldn't even think of pitching a lager yeast without rehydrating- it saves pitching two packets.
 
Fermentis say, on the sachets, to simply sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, but their website gives detailed instructions on rehydrating. I always rehydrate as a matter of course, but wouldn't even think of pitching a lager yeast without rehydrating- it saves pitching two packets.

I believe they will eventually update all their data sheets to advise that neither rehydration or aeration is necessary. I’m pretty sure I have read a recent (this year) study by them stating that rehydration is basically pointless.

They know more about yeast that I ever will so will probably lean on their advice. But not oxygenating with O2 will feel very odd to me. But I will try it one day.
 
In the context of this thread (Beerlover was making beer from kits, using dried yeast) it's a little dangerous to talk about rehydrating and making starters as if they were alternative techniques

I think you misunderstood my point his kit had failed and he was discussing adding more dry yest the last time i needed to add more yeast i was advised to re-hydrated it to give it as much help as i could and it worked, as DoJ said earlier "if you re-hydrate the yeast I find it starts quicker" that was the reason i decided to re-hydrate rather than just throw another pack of dry yeast in.
 
It seems home brewers are split on the subject of re-hydration.

Benefits of dry yeast re-hydration

When you pitch a properly rehydrated yeast pack you reduce the probability of a number of problems that may occur as a result of underpitching, i.e., not putting enough yeast cells into the wort. Before we go further I should point out that proper pitching rate is only one variable a brewer needs to consider for a healthy fermentation. Other factors to consider include: ideal wort temperature (40-50°F for lagers, 60-70°F for most ales), ideal fermentation temperature (45-55°F for lagers, 60-75°F for most ales), proper wort oxygenation (minimum of 8 ppm), and nutrient availability (usually only a concern when a large number of adjuncts or simple sugars are used to produce wort). I digress though, back to the topic at hand. Rehydrating yeast allows brewers to pitch an adequate amount of healthy yeast into wort, ensuring full attenuation and reduction of off-flavors. An under-attenuated beer may taste bland, cloyingly sweet, or like malt extract. The two primary off-flavors stemming from underpitching include:

  • Acetaldehyde-green apple
  • DMS-cooked corn and/or vegetables
Both of these off-flavors usually fade over time, however, I find it easier to pitch the proper amount of yeast initially so I do not have to worry about off-flavors being present in my beer.

https://www.homebrewsupply.com/learn/do-i-need-to-re-hydrate-dry-yeast.html
 
Hi PhilBrew, thanks for the comments, always used a starter from recycled yeast from the last brew or brew before that(frozen) to save money as I was on a budget, always had good results. Never rehydrated dry yeast, just let it do its thang really.
 
Here is the article to Fermentis saying no need for re-hydration - https://fermentis.com/en/news-from-fermentis/technical-reviews/e2u-direct-pitching/

I read somewhere as well, that re-hydrated yeast do start working quicker, but slow down faster, when directly pitching start slower but after it starts it keep going well.
On the other hand: https://fermentis.com/en/fermentation-solutions/you-create-beer/ near the bottom of the page.
Yeast suppliers want to sell as much yeast as possible and they're not the biggest and most profitable supplier for nothing. Equally, Mangrove Jacks will tell you a load of old nonsense about not harvesting and reusing their yeast. Have a read about what White and Zainasheff have to say on the matter in Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation. They seem to know what they're talking about.
:rolleyes:
 
Hi Lee
I’m pretty sure I have read a recent (this year) study by them stating that rehydration is basically pointless.
... I'm sure if you tried harder you could be LESS specific there, are you sure it wasn't "some bloke down the pub" that told you that wink... ... proper reference please?

Hi @Chippy_Tea, I understood you were just explaining the difference between rehydrating and making starters (for new members), with my post I was just adding that making starters doesn't (really) apply to dried yeast (also for new members) wink...

Hi @Banbeer, sorry if I was "preaching to the converted", but as I explained above to Chippy, my post was for readers finding this thread "cold", as much as to you wink... ... as I pointed out on another thread earlier, we have to rehydrate dried yeast to use it. So the debate is really about what to rehydrate in (water/wort), and how. Personally, I don't find sterilising a jug and sprinkling my dried yeast on to some water in it too arduous, and I find it useful/reassuring to see the yeast foaming up (showing that it's active) before I pitch it. So I'm not sure why people think sprinkling the yeast directly on the wort is easier/better :?:

Cheers, PhilB
 
Hi @LeeH, I'm sorry, I now see that @the_quick posted the reference ... but for me this part of that article speaks so much more loudly than all those graphs and statistics ...
Gino Baart at Fermentis said:
This indicates that the direct pitching procedure is adequate for fermentation.
... "adequate", hardly a raging endorsement, I see now why your assessment was "basically pointless" ... I guess this study simply re-affirms the findings of countless home brewers, who will post on forums like this "I just sprinkle my yeast onto my wort, it's always worked for me", and it usually will ... until it doesn't, and then they'll be on the forums asking what to do and this whole debate will begin again :?:

Cheers, PhilB
 
That there is krausen is good news. Did you repair your FV by any chance? While fermentation is occurring, a small leak is not significant since C02 is being expelled. You're on day 5-6 now? I'm on the edge of my seat here waiting to see how it turns out.

Cheers, davidfromUS, haven’t repaired it yet, will wait until I’ve bottled it before I replace the seal, I’m going to leave it for a few more days before I add the hops, purely just for the reason that I wont have time to bottle it up until next weekend. acheers.
 
Going to the topic of @Beerlover , I have 3 plastic fermenters and never been able to seal them - never see bubbles, so I recon co2 escapes through the lid where it doesn't seal with a bucket. Nothing to worry about, as there always will be bit of CO2 above the beer and krausen, as well will protect it from airborne infection. Lots of breweries do open fermentation for years - one of them Harveys from Lewes in East Sussex.
 
Busy afternoon! acheers.


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To be honest it’s the first time I’ve done it, always used pressure barrels in the past, I actually quite enjoyed it and it wasn’t half of much as a ball ache as I thought it was going to be! athumb..
 
To be honest it’s the first time I’ve done it, always used pressure barrels in the past, I actually quite enjoyed it and it wasn’t half of much as a ball ache as I thought it was going to be! athumb..

I regularly bottle 28 x 750 ml bottles, its the only part of this hobby i have never liked, the little bottler did make it a bit more bearable.
 

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