Cornies, taps, gas and things

[blackdog64]

Hi all,
I've just bought a 23 L AEB Cornie, a new one from copper kettle homebrewing



(Because I'm a new user, the forum thinks the above's URL is spam)

This is just so that you know which I have bought.

I now need a gas system, tap and whatever else I need. Advice would be greatly appreciated! I brew only British bitters, stouts, pale ales etc, never lager.

I believe I need the gas system, disconnects (but which?) and I've heard that the taps that simply connect to the "beer out" post foam too much, is this true?

Sorry if you've heard this before, but I want to get the right stuff first time :)

 

[chrig]

Welcome!

I can't offer any first hand advise but can point you in the direction of a 'how to...' which may answer some of your questions:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1219

 

[blackdog64]

Thanks very much! That post takes a lot of the mystery out of cornies. I've been using plastic pressure barrels for years but the pressure drops right off once the barrel's half empty and gas doesn't help much. Cornies seem to be what everyone is using?

 

[joe1002]

Yes you will need a co2 bottle (check out this: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=26434) and a co2 regulator, something like this <<<Clicky>>>.

You will need some 3/8" beer and gas line and some ball lock disconnects (one grey and one black. Grey for gas, black for beer) check out ebay for these. some have barbs and some have screw threads to which you can screw a john guest push fit onto. It is easier to remove the disconnect from the beer/gas line with these.

Finally taps. It all depends on how you will be hooking this up - some more info would be good. Generally, taps that connect straight to the disconnect will give you a pint of foam, particularly if you have no temperature control.

 

[blackdog64]

Thanks to everyone who answered. I now have my cornie, a 15 Kg gas cylinder and regulator. Now I need some disconnects (no problem there) but what's you advice on taps? Someone above tells me that they produce a lot of foam if they connect straight to the "Beer out" post, and there's the flexible "party taps", but what would you recommend?

My setup isn't temperature controlled (yet) and is pretty basic (yet). I'm a bit pushed for room, too. Advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Fil]

getting beer in the glass and not foam involves balancing the co2 at a level to maintain the desired condition given the temperature of the beer.

check out condition charts like this
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 7178,d.ZG4


then tapping you need to consider what pressure you have in the keg and then balance that off with either restricting devices or more easily with thinner restricting microline 3/16" OD

to avoid foam when pouring you want to minimise any larger changes in state such as temperature and pressure, pouring cold beer into a hot glass will stimulate foam release due to the dramatic change in temperature.. and pouring beer unrestricted from a keg at 10psi out to atmospheric pressure will also stimulate foam.

the ideal is to minimise the pressure gradient(posh word for drop) at the tap to 1-2psi.. the thin micro line will reduce pressure at a rate of 1 to 2 psi per foot length(1st foot closer to 1psi per foot and a bit more with each subsiquent foot used), most find 6ft-2m inline between the keg and tap is a good buffer for most beers.. some have different lengths for different beers.

if serving low conditioned beers at 8psi or lower u could get away with a flow control tap, tho for higher conditioned beers they are pants needing constant adjustment or 2ndary restricting devices inline or micro line..

get taps on ebay 5-£10 for a black plastic tap probably with a brand lable

once u sus the balance between temp and pressure and the need to restrict the keg pressure b4 the tap just why the connect to keg taps are worse than chocolate teapots will make perfect sence, if still not convinced u can buy the one i have id swap it for a chocolate teapot as at least i cld eat the chocky ..

 

[blackdog64]

Thanks very much, Master Brewer. I will trust your kind words and experience. So, a 6 foot 3/16 piping it is and a tap. I only really brew British bitters and pales, so they don't need too much pressure but the tap on the cornie doesn't sound useful.

 

[Fil]

temp control is crucial for stability, if at 13c and set with a pressure to maintain perfect condition and the temp drops dramatically to 5c the beer will become over conditioned and fizzy, if the temps rise, pressure can build up in the keg as co2 is released from suspension resulting in presure building up in the keg causing a serving prob unless the excess pressure is vented..

if u have room sort out a keg fridge asap it will save lots of hassle, i know, no room for one here at all. if u cant fit a fridge in insulate the kegs as much as u can to maintain a steady temp as much as possible,

 

[blackdog64]

Right, next problem! Or at least I think it's a problem...

I got hold of a Wescol CO2 regulator.

It has 2 gauges, the left hand one (high pressure) is in Bar/PSI and reads the pressure inside the CO2 tank. The Right hand gauge reads LPM (litres per minute?) and CFH (cubic feet per hour?).

Is it possible to use this regulator? Any advice much appreciated.

 

[Fil]

Right, next problem! Or at least I think it's a problem...

I got hold of a Wescol CO2 regulator.

It has 2 gauges, the left hand one (high pressure) is in Bar/PSI and reads the pressure inside the CO2 tank. The Right hand gauge reads LPM (litres per minute?) and CFH (cubic feet per hour?).

Is it possible to use this regulator? Any advice much appreciated.

Sorry not much use as is as the flow is not going to reflect the pressure built up in a keg.

However a psi gauge shouldnt cost much more than a fiver from ebay,

u can either replace the 2nd gauge on your reg, which may need a big lever as some regs have their threads sealed with a tough to break thread sealer.
(I changed one reg fitting once and it took a 4ft lever to break the seal)

Or simply stick a 2nd gauge inline in your gasline with a T or Y splitter.

Gauges are available with 1/4" bsp thread u can get a 1/4" male bsp to 3/8" jg fitting fairly easily and join the gauge to it with a 1/4" f/f socket and a far few wraps of ptfe tape.. so a tenner spent on ebay should sort you out..

 

[LeeH]

Yeah, some of the welding regs have their gauges glued in! Can be proper PITA!

 

[blackdog64]

Thanks, Fil :)

There is a blanked off 3rd low pressure outlet on the regulator, next to the other 2. Could I use that? It looks to be the same size as the other two gauges.