Coopers European Lager Review

[Sandimas]

Has anyone tried the recipe on the coopers website for this one?

I have, but I didn't realise it was a Coopers recipe - been making it with Hallertau for years so yes, would recommend it. Tried it with Saaz last time and it wasn't nearly as nice.

Did mine different to their recipe: 25g Hallertau steeped in cooled-down boiled water at 80C for 30mins, use this to make up the kit, then dry hop with another 25g Hallerau about 8 days into the fermentation.

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
I've got a can sitting on the shelf in the brew shed.
I'm planning to add 500g BE2, 750g light DME, brew at 12C with 2 sachets Saflager S-23 and add a Hallertau hop tea at cold conditioning. I'll make the hop tea in a dedicated cafetiere, allowing the boiled water to cool to 65C before adding the hops.

 

[mikeloretta]

I have, but I didn't realise it was a Coopers recipe - been making it with Hallertau for years so yes, would recommend it. Tried it with Saaz last time and it wasn't nearly as nice.

Did mine different to their recipe: 25g Hallertau steeped in cooled-down boiled water at 80C for 30mins, use this to make up the kit, then dry hop with another 25g Hallerau about 8 days into the fermentation.

thanks for that, did you swap the yeast or keep the kit yeast, they say to put 2 sachets of safalager yeast in, i've never done that before would that make a big difference

 

[peter43]

Just started first European lager...how long before you bottle and ready to drink.

Peter

 

[pms67]

thanks for that, did you swap the yeast or keep the kit yeast, they say to put 2 sachets of safalager yeast in, i've never done that before would that make a big difference

Coopers yeast is fine

 

[Bjorn Toulouse]

I tend to only make this in winter But,
I would leave it a minimum of 14 days normally I let it brew for 18-21 days fermenting and leave it in the bottle 12 weeks before drinking.
Works for me
I have made more than 30 of these kits over the years and have about 15 gallons in the shed

 

[Jakeyboi]

Hi, I'm new to home brewing. My first brew I made coopers Mexican crevasa, brewed at 25c for 6 days when the hydrometer stayed at 1.004. Bottled it for 3 weeks and it was fantastic.

This time Ive bought a second fv and done a cervasa and the European lager at the same time, thinking I would do it exactly as before..... Only after did I notice "when brewing European lager" section.

Now I don't know which yeast I put in each batch. They both seem to be fermenting already at 25c (I'm about 8 hours in). One definitely smells breadier than the other, could this be an indication into which yeast is in it? Does anyone know the difference?

If I can't tell the difference should I just brew both at around 20/21c?

Also does anyone kno How the lager yeast would effect the cervasa if at all? Or the normal yeast effect the European lager?

Also should have I left my last cervasa in the bottle longer than I did? It was handsome but if it could be even better then that would be great.

Thanks for any responses

Jake

 

[baggybill]

One's a lager yeast (needs cold temps) the other an ale yeast. I've done a Coopers Cerveza with a lager yeast (at the right temp!) and it came out great.

The one that got the lager yeast will have a much stronger 'eggy' smell.

If you're quick enough, I'd try to identify this one and move it to the coldest spot you can (<16°). If you leave it at high temp, not sure what will happen to it when 'cooked' :-?

 

[Jakeyboi]

After another sniff test I am non the wiser, the cervasa definitely has a stronger smell, I'm just not sure if it's eggy or not. Might just stick them both in the shed should be anaveragetemp of around 15 right now, unless we have another heat wave. Any ideas?

 

[baggybill]

Sounds like a good idea.

If you do that, check them often, one will be v.active and stink of eggs (lager yeast) and then you can move the other one back indoors where it will pick up again with the warmer temps :thumb:

 

[Jakeyboi]

Just stuck This batch in the fermentation freezer I just made. 2 weeks in the fv OG 1044 FG 1006. Now cold crashing at 2C. Tasted slightly bitter but quit like warm becks! Will report back later.

Is my hydro reading correct, I know it's hard to see.

Jake

 

[Slayer]

I kicked off a batch of this over the weekend. It's my first attempt to brew lager, so I could do with some advice please!

I used Saflager S-23 yeast instead of the sachet supplied by Coopers and brewed to between 20 & 23 litres. So far, so good. It's bubbling away nicely in my garage :thumb:

I plan to leave it for my standard 2 weeks.

1. I plan to rack into 500ml bottles. At what temperature do I store them? Do I need to raise the temperature to kick off the carbonation?
2. I normally batch prime with 80g of sugar in my barrel and then fill my bottles. Is this the correct amount of sugar for this lager?
3. I have read sugar lumps have been used for 500ml bottles. Is this the correct quantity?

 

[MyQul]

I kicked off a batch of this over the weekend. It's my first attempt to brew lager, so I could do with some advice please!

I used Saflager S-23 yeast instead of the sachet supplied by Coopers and brewed to between 20 & 23 litres. So far, so good. It's bubbling away nicely in my garage :thumb:

I plan to leave it for my standard 2 weeks.

1. I plan to rack into 500ml bottles. At what temperature do I store them? Do I need to raise the temperature to kick off the carbonation?
2. I normally batch prime with 80g of sugar in my barrel and then fill my bottles. Is this the correct amount of sugar for this lager?
3. I have read sugar lumps have been used for 500ml bottles. Is this the correct quantity?

What temp are you fermenting at? If your fermenting at 'proper' lager temps of 10C-12C it'll take longer to ferment than 2 weeks as yeast ferments slower at lower temps. If your fermenting at regular ale temps, this is fine but it wont be nearly as clean flavoured.

The problem with sugar lumps is I'm pretty sure they dont fit into the opening of most 500ml bottles

 

[Slayer]

What temp are you fermenting at? If your fermenting at 'proper' lager temps of 10C-12C it'll take longer to ferment than 2 weeks as yeast ferments slower at lower temps. If your fermenting at regular ale temps, this is fine but it wont be nearly as clean flavoured.

The problem with sugar lumps is I'm pretty sure they dont fit into the opening of most 500ml bottles

Temperatures in my garage over the weekend were ranging between 18 - 14 degC. This appears to be in the correct range as quoted on the yeast packaging.

 

[MyQul]

Temperatures in my garage over the weekend were ranging between 18 - 14 degC. This appears to be in the correct range as quoted on the yeast packaging.

Doing a quick google this is the blurb from the home brew shop description

Saflager S-23, Lager Yeast

This bottom fermenting yeast is widely used by Western European commercial breweries.
This yeast develops the best of its fruity and estery lager notes when fermented at low temperatures (9ºC-15ºC) yet producing very good lager and pilsener beers at higher temperatures (15ºC-21ºC). Recommended temperature range: 9ºC-15ºC (ideally 12ºC). Recommended pitching rate at 12ºC-15ºC: 80 to 120 g/hl (equivalent to 8 to 12 millions/ml wort). For a pitching temperature below 12ºC, increase the pitching rate accordingly, up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9ºC (equivalent to 20 to 30 million viable cells/ml wort).

Is that supposed to 8C-14C rather than 18C?

 

[Slayer]

Doing a quick google this is the blurb from the home brew shop description

Saflager S-23, Lager Yeast

This bottom fermenting yeast is widely used by Western European commercial breweries.
This yeast develops the best of its fruity and estery lager notes when fermented at low temperatures (9ºC-15ºC) yet producing very good lager and pilsener beers at higher temperatures (15ºC-21ºC). Recommended temperature range: 9ºC-15ºC (ideally 12ºC). Recommended pitching rate at 12ºC-15ºC: 80 to 120 g/hl (equivalent to 8 to 12 millions/ml wort). For a pitching temperature below 12ºC, increase the pitching rate accordingly, up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9ºC (equivalent to 20 to 30 million viable cells/ml wort).

Is that supposed to 8C-14C rather than 18C?

No! I should've wrote 14-18 degC!
So it appears the temperature range is ok. I was going to wait until the indicator stops bubbling and 2 constant SG readings to confirm fermentation has stopped.

What about post bottling storage conditions?

 

[MyQul]

No! I should've wrote 14-18 degC!
So it appears the temperature range is ok. I was going to wait until the indicator stops bubbling and 2 constant SG readings to confirm fermentation has stopped.

What about post bottling storage conditions?

At those temps you probably wont need a diacytyl rest. So just bottle it. Do you have any ability to lager/cold condition at about 1C for about 6 weeks? If not just treat it like an ale

 

[Slayer]

I can store the bottles in the fridge I have in the garage, that should get near 1C. So I don't need to store in a warm place to kick off the carbonation?

Also, excuse my ignorance. What is diacytyl rest and what is its benefits?.

 

[Covrich]

I can store the bottles in the fridge I have in the garage, that should get near 1C. So I don't need to store in a warm place to kick off the carbonation?

Also, excuse my ignorance. What is diacytyl rest and what is its benefits?.

It is a compound which can produce a butterscotch flavour

In a nut shell at warmer temperatures it helps clear it up.. Normally doing lagers at larger temps towards teh end of fermentation you raise the temp to ale temps so 18-22 degrees for a few days to help clear it up..

 

[Slayer]

It is a compound which can produce a butterscotch flavour

In a nut shell at warmer temperatures it helps clear it up.. Normally doing lagers at larger temps towards teh end of fermentation you raise the temp to ale temps so 18-22 degrees for a few days to help clear it up..

Ahhh, so warm up then store at 1C? (and try to resist for as along as poss!!)