Coopers AuPa as a base for a session beer

[Racehunter]

So, while my Cwtch sits in the bottles for a little while longer, I have been looking at what to do next, and after much researching (mainly on here) I think I will use Coopers AuPa as a base, made up with 50/50 DME and dextrose and dry hop for 5 to 6 days before bottling.

However, I have a few questions. I would rather aim for an ABV around 3.5%, so whats the best way to achieve this? I will probably split the tin contents, so each batch would be small enough to experiment with.

Also, one of my favourite session beers is Hook Norton Brewery 'Hooky' and would love to get close to some of the flavour and aroma, which is a malty aftertaste and quite hoppy aroma. They use 3 hops, Fuggles, Goldings and Challenger, which is probably a bit much to dry hop with, so any suggestions for a 2 hop combination? I was thinking around 40g total hops for the full kit. Perhaps also a steeped crystal malt addition, but maybe that is a step too far for now!

And finally, it worth using a different yeast rather than the one in the kit?

Thanks

 

[Jimbo77]

So, while my Cwtch sits in the bottles for a little while longer, I have been looking at what to do next, and after much researching (mainly on here) I think I will use Coopers AuPa as a base, made up with 50/50 DME and dextrose and dry hop for 5 to 6 days before bottling.

However, I have a few questions. I would rather aim for an ABV around 3.5%, so whats the best way to achieve this? I will probably split the tin contents, so each batch would be small enough to experiment with.

Also, one of my favourite session beers is Hook Norton Brewery 'Hooky' and would love to get close to some of the flavour and aroma, which is a malty aftertaste and quite hoppy aroma. They use 3 hops, Fuggles, Goldings and Challenger, which is probably a bit much to dry hop with, so any suggestions for a 2 hop combination? I was thinking around 40g total hops for the full kit. Perhaps also a steeped crystal malt addition, but maybe that is a step too far for now!

And finally, it worth using a different yeast rather than the one in the kit?

Thanks

I’m not expert, got 2 kits on the go and only done 3 previously.
However I would stick to using the kit Yeast. As the kits always seem to finish below the expected Abv anyway in my limited experience.
when I swapped out the kit yeast and used a wilko one it finished above the stated Abv.
Re hops haven’t got a clue. Haven’t hit that part of the learning curve yet ;-)
P.s I’m using a simply pale Ale kit to as a base to dry hop for my next brew.
Just read the Ruby red Thread (Cwtch )nice looking pint. definitely on my to do list!
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/best-pale-to-add-to.87848/

 

[terrym]

@Racehunter
I used the AuPA kit as a base for boosting kits.
However without any modification with just 50/50 DME/dextrose it is a bit uninspiring but nevertheless will give you a quite drinkable very light pale ale. And the yeast if fine, its half lager half ale so can ferment a little lower than a straight ale yeast if you want to induce a cleaner taste to your beer.
Looking through my records most of my attempts involved a minimash but I did use crystal to give it a little sweetness and body. I suggest you try a 150g steep.
As far as hops I used Cascade many times with this beer and it worked really well. But for your three hops I would not use Challenger but 25g of Fuggles into one half of a split brew, ditto EKG, would give you something to compare. And what I used to do was make up a hop tea and then chuck the lot in as a' wet hop' which seemed to get much more out of the hops.
Finally the kit review is here
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/coopers-australian-pale-ale-review.19466/

 

[Racehunter]

@Racehunter
I used the AuPA kit as a base for boosting kits.
However without any modification with just 50/50 DME/dextrose it is a bit uninspiring but nevertheless will give you a quite drinkable very light pale ale. And the yeast if fine, its half lager half ale so can ferment a little lower than a straight ale yeast if you want to induce a cleaner taste to your beer.
Looking through my records most of my attempts involved a minimash but I did use crystal to give it a little sweetness and body. I suggest you try a 150g steep.
As far as hops I used Cascade many times with this beer and it worked really well. But for your three hops I would not use Challenger but 25g of Fuggles into one half of a split brew, ditto EKG, would give you something to compare. And what I used to do was make up a hop tea and then chuck the lot in as a' wet hop' which seemed to get much more out of the hops.
Finally the kit review is here
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/coopers-australian-pale-ale-review.19466/

Fantastic information terrym. Exactly the kind of input I hoped for.

Really appreciate your input

 

[Racehunter]

terrym, when did you add the 'wet hop'?

 

[terrym]

terrym, when did you add the 'wet hop'?

When the fermentation had finished and a bit say day 8 in, then 3/4 days in the warm then move to a cool place for 2 more days if one available (as in say 8 months of the year).

 

[Racehunter]

Similar timings to dry hopping then. Thanks again.

Now to get an order in

 

[Racehunter]

Where have the last 10 weeks gone! Been so busy with work I haven't been able to put this brew together yet.

However, I have a 'window of opportunity' this week and intend to get this started as 2 X 11 litre brews, with a crystal steep addition and eventually using a hop tea in each, one with Fuggles and one with EKG. My only remaining question is with regards the additional fermentables. Originally I stated I would probably use 50/50 DME and dextrose, but would I be better with 100% (1kg) DME?

Any input is greatly appreciated

Steve

 

[terrym]

Where have the last 10 weeks gone! Been so busy with work I haven't been able to put this brew together yet.

However, I have a 'window of opportunity' this week and intend to get this started as 2 X 11 litre brews, with a crystal steep addition and eventually using a hop tea in each, one with Fuggles and one with EKG. My only remaining question is with regards the additional fermentables. Originally I stated I would probably use 50/50 DME and dextrose, but would I be better with 100% (1kg) DME?

Any input is greatly appreciated

Steve

My view would be if you want a lighter drier taste stay with 50:50. If you want a maltier beer use all DME. But using all DME at the same volume will mean your beer has a lower ABV unless you brew short to compensate, or add a little sugar say about 165g across the whole.

 

[Racehunter]

Thanks for the reply. I think I will try 50:50 with this brew and perhaps use all DME in the future just so I can compare. I will be brewing short anyway, at around 21-22L. Looking forwards to getting this one underway.

 

[Racehunter]

Life got in the way of brewing again and now I am probably overthinking things. So my latest (last) question is regarding the yeast quantity.

As I am splitting the brew into 2 X 11L FV's, is it sufficient to simply split the yeast packet supplied between each FV or should I look to add additional yeast?

 

[Clint]

Have a look on Cooper's web site they have a recipe section that uses their kits to create similar styles of beers you might like...I done a couple when I only did kits and they are very good..I think there's some with grains involved too.

 

[Racehunter]

Hi Clint. Thanks. I have looked at the Cooper's recipe's a number of times and agree that there is some good info there. However, it all seems to be for full batches, not one can plus fermentables split into 2 smaller batches. I think that as I am brewing very slightly short (when combining the two batches), the supplied yeast amount, when divided in half 'should' suffice.

 

[Clint]

You could split a tin of malt...but you'd have to keep it safe...you could probably freeze it..

 

[Racehunter]

Actually what I am doing is to use all the hopped malt extract, with 500g dextrose and 500g DME, along with the liquor from the crystal steep, made up to 10L in one of the small FV's. Then once fully mixed, split 5L off into my second small FV, then make both up to 11L before pitching the yeast

 

[Tommo 2]

Hi race hunter , have done a lot of coopers over the years so your experiment interests me , the way I would go with this one is to use a Nottingham yeast or an S-05 rehydrated then divide it between the two batches , just make to thrash both brews like a good un before adding the yeast. Might just try your experiment myself some time maybe trying mosaic and citra or Amarillo and galaxy and maybe mash 1 kilo of marris otter extra light with the crystal malt with each batch, easy to do if you have a 6 litre pot. Would be interested to know how things turn out. Cheers

 

[Racehunter]

Interesting! Will post how it goes

 

[Racehunter]

Time for a quick update. My experiment to steep the crystal malt in a Thermos flask worked well and it's now 7 days from putting the 2 FV's in my water bath, maintaining a steady 21°C. I took gravity readings today and it's now at 1010 (1040 SG), so I will check again tomorrow and if as I suspect, the reading is the same, then I will add the hop tea and let that work.
I am hoping for good things from this brew, as it already is rather pleasant

 

[Racehunter]

So, after adding the hop tea, leaving in the water bath for 3 days, then chilling to 12°c for a couple of days, I racked each batch into 2 bottling buckets, and fitted the lids. The intention was to bottle tomorrow (Wednesday evening), however I have just noticed that the lids are slightly bulging indicating a pressure build up. Surely fermentation hasn't started again? Any thoughts?

 

[terrym]

I did this kit 15 times in different forms and my experience was, with the kit yeast, it usually ended up at 1.008-1.009 although once or twice 1.007. I usually kept it in the FV for about 14 days or thereabouts before packaging.
So take an SG reading to compare and if its still at 12*C you may have to correct for temperature.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/