Conditioning and temp control

[b7ryn]

I've recently upgraded my set up to include an old fridge and and Inkbird 308 to control my fermentation in a utility room.. as the room can be anywhere from 19 to 25degrees. Seems to be working fine and doing my first brew with it just now.
Should I use this for conditioning, once fermentation is complete? i.e. is there any benefit to this, as opposed to sitting in a warmer, uncontrolled room during this phase?

Any advice would be great.

Brian.

 

[grmski]

Assuming you're using pressure barrels It would be good to put the fridge at a stable cellar temp and serve from there rather than leave the pb out in the open.

 

[b7ryn]

For conditioning I just stick to a FV plastic tub. I really just want to know if there is any impact to conditioning at a slightly higher (and uncontrolled) temperature than the beer was conditioned at.?

 

[pms67]

I use mine for conditioning and set it at a steady 20, until another brew is required then they are all chucked into the shed where it can go from 10-30 degrees in a day!

 

[pms67]

Sorry,that's just for bottling,how do you condition,PB or bottle?

 

[Fil]

for conditioning you needent be anywhere near as precise about the temperature as long as its as warm as when you conducted primary it will be fine,, the flavour impact of fermenting the resudual sugars in the brew and or any priming charge added is insignificant compared to the bulk of the sugars that were fermented durring the primary,
a 5 gallon brew will have off the top of my head 3-5kg of sugar say 4kg,, and your priming charge will be circa 80-160g thats only 2-4%, so while i would always advocate using dme or lme over any simple sugar for kit or brew additions when it comes to priming and conditioning tate n lyle or silverspoon is just as good.

find a warm spot (out of direct sunlight) and stash em for a week or 2 I would also suggest stashing them somewhere cooler for a few further weeks too, but you can always crack a sample once its conditioned to taste test

 

[foxy]

Ideally conditioning should be done at the same temperature as the fermenting temperature, if your utility room shares an outside wall and you are a keen brewer, consider using an inverter reverse cycle aircon, cheap to run and can maintain a steady temperature.

 

[Brett74]

when you guys say conditioning, do you not mean carbonating ? ie: the yeast chomping on the priming charge ? Is conditioning not the process of aging the beer a bit, usually at a lower temp. I brew a lot from Greg Hughes recipes and he specifies a a conditioning time and temp for everything, always lower than ferm. temp, usually quite close to serving temps in fact. Don't have the book at hand right now, but if someone does they could chime in here...

 

[Litmus]

when you guys say conditioning, do you not mean carbonating ? ie: the yeast chomping on the priming charge ? Is conditioning not the process of aging the beer a bit, usually at a lower temp. I brew a lot from Greg Hughes recipes and he specifies a a conditioning time and temp for everything, always lower than ferm. temp, usually quite close to serving temps in fact. Don't have the book at hand right now, but if someone does they could chime in here...

Agreed, I believe carbonation in the bottle is better represented as Secondary or tertiary fermentation. Conditioning is aging, typically at much lower temp; sub 8'.

 

[Zephyr259]

when you guys say conditioning, do you not mean carbonating ? ie: the yeast chomping on the priming charge ? Is conditioning not the process of aging the beer a bit, usually at a lower temp. I brew a lot from Greg Hughes recipes and he specifies a a conditioning time and temp for everything, always lower than ferm. temp, usually quite close to serving temps in fact. Don't have the book at hand right now, but if someone does they could chime in here...

You are correct in relation to GH's book, most ales get conditioned around 12C. I also agree with the rest of your post, keep temp near fermentation temp while the bottles are carbonating then lower it down for conditioning/storage.

Im just setting up a fridge for fermentation will keep the beer cool conditoning as much as i can, at least until i see if it's worth it, then move it to the cool cupboard when i need the fridge again.

Its handy having a naturally cool cupboard, evening on these really warm days it doesn't really go past 18C, 2 Christmases ago we used it as a 2nd fridge for non-risk foods since it was pretty close to freezing, good for storing beer and wine.

 

[Clint]

Yes Brett...I've just been reading mine while trying a beer...typically a beer may be fermented at 18°c but conditioning may ask for 12°c for 6 weeks...
I've only recently started temp control for brewing,my bottled beers go into a kitchen cupboard with a constant temp of around 19°c where they get 2 weeks. Brews are then put in crates in my shed outside. This can be surprising. ..during the recent hot weather I went for supplies you stock the fridge for later in the day and the bottles ftom the floor in the shed hacked condensation on them...outside temp was 24+.
Agreed...keeping plastic kegs at the right temp is a pain...

 

[b7ryn]

Sorry,that's just for bottling,how do you condition,PB or bottle?

Sorry, by conditioning (in this sense) I am talking about once initial fermentation is complete and specifically the time spent in a secondary bucket. e.g. to allow the beer to mature a little, dry hop and for more sediment to settle out (before crashing / bottling).

Brian

p.s. COYBIG. 😀

 

[foxy]

Conditioning a beer is the process of natural carbonation, for instance you may have primed your beer or the bottle it will then take 2 weeks to condition at fermentation temperature.Aging a beer is completely different, and aging is something which is done to beers with a higher ABV.
It seems the OP is getting confused with conditioning and secondary which is understandable as cask ale is refered to as a secondary for conditioning. Many writers write many different things and there are so many variables in brewing, the best we as home brewers can do is read and take in as much as possible and always keep an open mind.

 

[Fil]

when you guys say conditioning, do you not mean carbonating ? ie: the yeast chomping on the priming charge ? Is conditioning not the process of aging the beer a bit, usually at a lower temp. I brew a lot from Greg Hughes recipes and he specifies a a conditioning time and temp for everything, always lower than ferm. temp, usually quite close to serving temps in fact. Don't have the book at hand right now, but if someone does they could chime in here...

Indeed conditioning is adding the condition,life or carbonation to a beer.

standing in a secondary FV to clear, dryhop is a secondary fermentation period, the fermentation being the clearing up of the residual sugars still present in the brew.

conditioning can be achieved naturally either by kegging/bottling a point or 2 above the expected FG Or by adding a further priming charge. Also Alternativly by applying cold high pressure conditions in the keg to force condition into the brew. google a kegging chart https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...=xbA22cKg6g1riDhoRe225w&bvm=bv.58187178,d.ZG4

well to the best of my understanding at least..

So for the secondary fermentation, you just need to keep the brew within the same range of temps as you did for the primary, However you may wish to take the opportunity to apply a diactyl rest, this is a nominal hike of the temp by 1-2c to the top of the temp range suggested for your yeast for a day or two to stimulate them to eat up as much residual sugar as possible, best applied to lighter brews you want a crisp clean malt flavour from.

enjoy.

 

[Brett74]

Conditioning a beer is the process of natural carbonation, for instance you may have primed your beer or the bottle it will then take 2 weeks to condition at fermentation temperature.Aging a beer is completely different, and aging is something which is done to beers with a higher ABV.
It seems the OP is getting confused with conditioning and secondary which is understandable as cask ale is refered to as a secondary for conditioning. Many writers write many different things and there are so many variables in brewing, the best we as home brewers can do is read and take in as much as possible and always keep an open mind.

I am not 100% sure here, but I think you guys guys are getting it wrong here, sorry to split hairs but carbonating is the process of priming sugar or whatever your priming charge is creating the CO2 in your beer and conditioning is what goes on after that, waiting for it to mature/mellow out ....often at lower temps...that was the point I was trying to make, if we use the correct terminology we avoid confusing each other.

 

[foxy]

No, bottle conditioning is carbonation in the bottle, which is what we as homebrewers do.
https://vinepair.com/beer-101/what-is-bottle-conditioning/

 

[dan125]

Sorry, by conditioning (in this sense) I am talking about once initial fermentation is complete and specifically the time spent in a secondary bucket. e.g. to allow the beer to mature a little, dry hop and for more sediment to settle out (before crashing / bottling).

Brian

p.s. COYBIG. 😀

After some recent research I've stopped transering to a 2ndry and have also shortened the time between brew day & packaging to 2 weeks for most brews (mainly hoppy pales).
I start the brew with the fridge at or below the lower end of the yeast range for a clean inital ferment, then when fermentation starts to slow down I start increasing temp gradually the help the beer finish/clean up, then start cold crashing on around day 10-11.
I usually add the dry hops on day 6-7.
I'm convinced the beer is better for not being transfered to a 2ndry and I've not noticed any negatives from the shortened time scale.
:

 

[b7ryn]

After some recent research I've stopped transering to a 2ndry and have also shortened the time between brew day & packaging to 2 weeks for most brews (mainly hoppy pales).
I start the brew with the fridge at or below the lower end of the yeast range for a clean inital ferment, then when fermentation starts to slow down I start increasing temp gradually the help the beer finish/clean up, then start cold crashing on around day 10-11.
I usually add the dry hops on day 6-7.
I'm convinced the beer is better for not being transfered to a 2ndry and I've not noticed any negatives from the shortened time scale.
:

That's interesting, as I'd start to read similar from some recent blogs from folks like Scott Janish, etc. The NEIPA I have in the fridge just now (currently on Day7, using crossmyloof English Ale Yeast @ 16°C) was dry hopped on Day 2... And Im tempted to add the 2nd dry hop addition shortly and raise the temp similar to your approach... All to keep the hop characteristics as fresh as I can.
This approach goes against my initial questions but I'm trying as many things as I can just now for the different beer styles. 😊

 

[dan125]

... All to keep the hop characteristics as fresh as I can.

I'm now drinking hoppy pales (force carbonated in a corny) 3 weeks after brew day.

 

[Brett74]

No, bottle conditioning is carbonation in the bottle, which is what we as homebrewers do.
https://vinepair.com/beer-101/what-is-bottle-conditioning/

I stand corrected, thank you for the clarification.