Cask conditioned brew?

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Right on each other's door step. With Chorlton for a beery playground.
 
I've often wondered if it's possible to use a hand pump with Cornelius kegs under high pressure?

I don't want my beer to go flat, I'm not fussed if CAMRA approve :), but I can't drink 4 gallons of beer in one sitting ( although I do my level best ).
 
Why would you need a hand pump and why would you need to drink 4 gallons in one sitting?
 
I assume it would give the same effect as proper cask-conditioned beer, without the time-limit of it going off.

I'd have to drink it in one sitting because it would go flat or off, unless pressurised.
 
Never tried it, sorry. I'm sure someone has experience that will help.
 
Let's clear a couple of bits up here, cask conditioned ale is nothing related to the "fizz" it is a period of maturation using the residual yeast at the end of primary fermentation. If doing it properly there should be no priming sugar involved. Also a pressure barrel is not a cask, it is a barrel but not a real barrel as a barrel in measure is 36 gallons not 5, it would be called a pressure cask otherwise, but as cask conditioned ale isn't served under pressure it is not.

A cask is anything from a Pin to Firkin, Kilderkin etc. it has a keystone, a shive and a cask tap, usually served horizontal after being spiled for a few days to achieve perfect condition. This is an craft/art form in it's own right known as cellarmanship, you cannot IMO replicate this is anything but an actual cask. And in NO way does a Cornie under pressure with a beer engine fill in the job either, a Cornie is a keg of a different description so it would be keg beer.

*climbs off soap box*
 
I've often wondered if it's possible to use a hand pump with Cornelius kegs under high pressure?
High pressure? Hand pumps are used frequently with cornies, but at low 'blanket' pressures - 2 to 4 psi. As hand pumps aren't designed for use with pressurised kegs, they will drip or leak without some means of stopping them. (I use a 3/8 push-fit ball valve in the beer lines, which I close when not using the pump). The low pressure is enough to prevent the beer from oxidising, so it stays good for weeks (if it ever lasts that long!).

I don't want my beer to go flat, I'm not fussed if CAMRA approve :), but I can't drink 4 gallons of beer in one sitting ( although I do my level best ).
Exactly - it's a case of 'art of the possible', even at risk of offending (alienating?) the real ale purists!

Cheers,
Chris
 
Yeah, I meant under serving pressure, not high pressure really.

That sounds perfect, I might invest in one some time. Are the results as good as I imagine them to be?
 
I've just googled and found I can do with with a 'demand valve', which prevents the beer from passing unless there is a vacuum on the hand-pump side of valve, no need for a ball-valve.

I'm ( pathetically? ) excited by this :).
 
I have a check valve - similar to this:
CV_ml.jpeg


It doesn't stop the pump leaking, though. Its role is to prevent beer going back to the cask, so it opens to let beer through when, as you say, the handpump creates a vacuum. It doesn't deal with pressure in the other direction, from the cask/keg. In my simple understanding, it's not designed to - its intended for use with unpressurised casks. So I have a ball valve as well.

Cheers,
Chris
 
I have a check valve - similar to this:
CV_ml.jpeg


It doesn't stop the pump leaking, though. Its role is to prevent beer going back to the cask, so it opens to let beer through when, as you say, the handpump creates a vacuum. It doesn't deal with pressure in the other direction, from the cask/keg. In my simple understanding, it's not designed to - its intended for use with unpressurised casks. So I have a ball valve as well.

Cheers,
Chris

Hate to correct you but it does. If yours doesn't, it's not sealing correctly, the actual purpose of a check valve is to stop beer under pressure being forced out the beer engine spout, not stop it back flowing. Most beer engines will have an internal non-return valve for that.
 

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