Building a mash tun

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rickthebrew

Landlord.
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I`m only one bit of kit away from the darkside :)

Just need to build my mash tun!!

I haven`t got a cool box yet and the best deal i can find is on amazon just under 18 quid delivered for a 30litre one, should of got one for 7 quid in asda in the summer!!

so a few questions:

1 - is this the best way forward for a cheap setup ( i got my boiler of freecycle :party: )
2 - what size copper pipe is best to use 15mm or 22mm
3 - should i solder the copper together or use pushfit ones so i can disasemble for cleaning
4 - how do i make it exactly? :(

any help or links would be much appreciated - i`m itching to do my first AG brew!

:twisted:
 
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1 - is this the best way forward for a cheap setup ( i got my boiler of freecycle :party: )

Yes, i think you cant beat it as a good solid starting point that wont cost the earth.

2 - what size copper pipe is best to use 15mm or 22mm

I used 15mm and it was fine

3 - should i solder the copper together or use pushfit ones so i can disasemble for cleaning

Don't bother with solder or buying pushfit stuff, just push the pipe into the elbows 'loose'

4 - how do i make it exactly? :(

You will need to cut a hole in the outer skin of the coolbox with a holecutting drill bit of a size to suit your tap or ball valve
Remove the foam insulation from that area
Cut a hole in the inner skin
fit your tap and make sure it's watertight
for the manifold.
make cuts in the pipe that go almost halfway up the pipe at ~3mm intervals
arrange the lengths of pipe using 90' elbows to make a good fit for the base of your tun (cut-slots pointing down)
make sure you have a 'T-Piece' that goes and fits into the back of the tap and that it's air tight*

Thats the basics.

*needs to be airtight as the manifold replies upon a syphon effect :thumb:
 
Try here Clicky
I used 15mm piping and the joints are not soldered so it can be stripped for cleaning just pinch them with some pliers for a tight push fit.!
 
cheers wez and MD,

i see MD has drilled his pipe and wez you say to cut slots? any reason for the difference or does it not really matter?

nice set up md!! :clap:
 
Cut slots with an angle grinder and a slitting disc . . . makes easy work of it . . . Drilling is hard work
 
rickthebrew said:
I haven`t got a cool box yet and the best deal i can find is on amazon, just under 18 quid delivered for a 30litre one, should of got one for 7 quid in asda in the summer!!
Don't penny-pinch on the coolbox, remember it's supposed to hold within 1°C for 90 minutes. I think I paid £15 for a 19 litre but it's a well made box and has decent insulation. I could of (sic) got a bigger one for less money but the walls were thin and the insulation was ****, something like 1cm of expanded polystyrene.

That Coleman one looks like it should do the job, but it might be bigger than you actually need if you're doing standard 5 gallon brews.
 
yeah i reckon my first brew will be 5 gallons - keep things simple(ish) for the first one!
My boiler can hold at least 45 - 50 litres safely so i hope to be able to scale up to 7 1/2 gallon brews to give me around 60pints a time! As i`ll have to do my brewday in the backgarden (my boiler is huge, old, not pretty and on wheels!) it`ll make sense to brew in quantity - i`ve a want on freecycle for a coolbox but will order one if i get no replies - then build my manifold and order my grain/ hops and hopefully be on my first brew on a dry day in the near future!!

i think i`m pretty near the bottom of the `cheap end of the brewing scale` !! :thumb:
 
sorry meant to ask - is a simple rectangle design sufficent for the manifold or would another pipe across the middle be best?
 
Add a cross piece if you can :thumb:
It'll help with efficiency and run off as there will be less chance of channelling.
 
as moley pointed out a 30litre box may be to big - if i did a 5gallon brew with around 4kg of grain and 10litres of water in the mash tun would this be unefficient and cool below the temp i need? Would i be better of doing a bigger brew to fill the mash tun ?
I suppose i`m asking if the mash tun has to be full to hold its temp? - if i added extra insulation would this be OK

- sorry for all the basic questions i just want to get it right and get that first brew on!!
 
No, it'll be fine. Just remember to preheat the mash tun with some hot or boiling water before you start doughing in. Covering it with a sleeping bag or blanket during the mash will also help.

As a side note, there have been more reports of stuck mashes or slow run-off from people who use 15mm pipe so I'd recommend using 22mm. YMMV.
 

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