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Really happy with mine. No specific advice. Just look up some YouTube video's and give it a go. I just use it in manual mode rather than auto mode. Also you might want to check the temperature calibration. My mates seems pretty spot on but mine seems to read 2 degrees low...so it'll be boiling away and the display reads 98 degrees. You can 'calibrate' it. I use top screen and fine mesh with no issues...I use rice hulls with Oats, Pilsner and Rye but other than that seems to flow well without any help.

The only tip is when you are assembling the centre overflow pipe just push the extendable top part off the notch the spring seats in. That way you can push the pipe down once you've mashed in to the correct level. If you have the spring clicked into the notch then the spring is below the level of the grist so you can't adjust.

Happy brewing.
 
More temp advice. My grain bed is always a couple of degrees less at the top compared with the reading on the unit. Use a separate thermometer to check the wort coming out of the recirculation pipe as mine is accurate to the controller, so the wort temp next to the probe is correct. I usually set the strike temperature a couple degrees higher than what I'm planning to try and get the mash temp accurate from the start.
I run the pump for a few minutes and stir the strike water and check with a separate thermometer rather than trusting the temp on the controller before adding the grains.
I don't use any of the programs, just use it manually.
Agree with the point from @hoppyscotty regarding the spring lock on the pipe. I have only just started doing this after 18 months of using🤷🏻.
I stir the mash 2-3 times to improve the efficiency , then leave it for the last 20 mins so the wort can filter and clear.
 
Yep 9-10 degs difference seems odd.
I've found the outlet of the pump might read 65 degs if the display reads 66-67, so always set it manually to 1 degree more than desired. Measuring the liquid mash/wort however may only read 60'ish...

My theory is that if temp is right at top and bottom (where the sensor is) then things should be about right.
 
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When you set for boiling, I usually put temp around 103. Mine is quite accurate, but when I leave it at 100 the boil starts and stops - when it gets to the boiling point I only run it on 1500W element and switch 500W off.

All together brilliant system and Paul from AHB is absolutely fantastic with aftersales support.
 
The new ones don't have that ability. I watched videos on setting boil temp then was confused when my display went from 99 to HH.
Turns out HH is full noise on both elements. The 1900w element alone is sufficient to keep a rolling boil going...
 
Actually on that. Something to watch is power consumption. I discovered that with the kettle on full, my sparge urn heating, and the washing machine running, the circuit breaker would trip... :D

Have since staggered my urn heat up and banished any laundry operation while brewing...
 
It’s arrived, just heating some water up, first class service from AHB
F5947CBE-FB1E-4EE2-B556-594542B03E6D.jpeg
 
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Tiny notes:
  • Boil off volume per hour can be quite different if boiling with one of both elements - can be useful if you've over sparged to boil on both elements for a while to boil off the extra water.
  • Depending on your mash grain bill, your recirculation flow might be very slow, this isn't usually a problem as flow through the grain bed will improve later in the mash and you can increase recirculation later on.
  • Auto mode is really easy to use once you've tried it once - it's good to get the water hot in the morning after setting it going the night before, just set the first temperature below ambient as a timer delay and you can time it to only switch on the elements an hour or so before you'd like the water hot.
Anna
 

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