Brewzilla

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The earlier discussion about abandoning the central circulation tube in the malt pipe has persuaded me to give it a try. I have just bought a 1/4 BSP stainless steel blanking plug on eBay. It only cost £2.00 including postage. It's a simple solution to blocking the threaded hole, and the quality looks good. It has a parallel thread (unlike some which have tapered threads) and a hex head, so is easy to fit and remove with your fingers.

IMG_2629.JPG


The seller is Wrekin Pneumatics: BSP Pipe Fittings Stainless Steel 316 A4 Grade 150lb 1/8" To 4" Food Grade SS | eBay

I've not tried it yet, but I plan to brew again in the next couple of weeks, so will see how it goes 🤞
 
I have the false bottom plate and the bottom plate on the mash pipe. At boil after i take out the mash pipe, i only have the false bottom plate.
it has 3 heat elements: 500, 1000 and 2000. I couldn’t find a combination to have a good rolling boil.
I had to boil it for almost 2 hours to make it loose enough liquid.
I would suggest you alter your amount of water to suit the system if you are not getting a full/vigorous rolling boil. It is not essential to have as vigorous a boil as people think a reasonable boil will suffice as long as it is boiling
 
You only need rice/oat hulls/husks if you think the grain will cause a stuck mash. Generally normal beers are ok so you should be ok it is a rough idea the use of Porridge oats, Wheat, Rye and some adjuncts like Corn flakes etc that may cause a stuck mash and usually in largish quantities say 20% and above but no set rules as some seem not to get stuck mashes but some do with the same amounts.
A standard brew should be ok with out anything else and good luck athumb..
 
I wonder if one of you would be very kind and tell me the external height with the lid off and recirculation pipe removed. Also the external diameter. I'm struggling to find these measurements online and I'm short of storage in my flat.... 35L version..
 
Yes I'm not convinced it whirlpools effectively, but find it's great for circulating while heating up/cooling so it's more efficient & the temp display is more accurate...
 
Last edited:
Hi i am fairly new to a 35L brewzilla, i don't have the whirlpool arm i am 6 brews in and so far no problems, when i start the pump i use a little sieve to catch the remnents of the last brew and same when i transfare to fv i also just chuck the pellets in,
 
@Rodcx500z
I never had a whirlpool arm and just chucked the hop pellets in. Wasn't doing super hoppy neipa things though so max was about 150g of pellets in the robobrew.
I'm using a Guten 70 now and that has a more powerful pump and I'm using a counterflow chiller so the built in whirlpool I added goes well.
Using an immersion chiller will get in the way of the whirlpool.

I did use to angle the recirc pipe and hold it with a clamp to get the beer spinning a bit and that does help with cooling efficiency.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top