Bottling from the fermentasaurus

[Snoop]

Morning.

I normally keg, not bottled anything for 4 years but recently got inspired to do a Belgium Tripel which could do with going into 330s really. I decided to not ferment under pressure so it won't be carbed but wondering if once done Iattach the pressure lid with some tube to the bottling wand and just use enough co2 to push the beer into the bottles? I'm keen to avoid a transfer to a bottling bucket. Probably just use a carb drop in each 330 bottle.

Should work right? I guess you could do it from the bottom but there is always way too much trub even after dumping it. And doing repeated dumps just introduces O2 which I am keen to avoid.

Cheers
Si

 

[Hoddy]

I have a FS and i dont see any reason why that process wont work.

I have bottled from my FS using a Blichman beer gun and then primed the bottles so i would say you should be good to go.

One word of caution is i guess the seal at the bottom of the wand wont be that strong so watch your pressure so that it does just blast past the spring in the bottom of the wand. I guess you wont need much more than 0.3 bar

 

[Snoop]

Was gonna use a fairly long run of tubing to drop the pressure in the line. That said I just saw they steel bottling wands so might upgrade to a shiny one.

How do you find the FS? Apart from the fact you cannot really dump yeast very well it's been a great purchase. Especially as I got the jacket for it for 15quid on sale which is really useful for blocking light. I'm currently fermenting outside my fridge with heat tolerant yeasts so the jacket has been super useful.

 

[Hoddy]

Yes i have been really happy with mine. Being able to do a pressure transfer into my kegs with no O2 exposure has been a revelation for me. I know what you mean about the yeast dumping, its like the valve isnt quite big enough to allow the yeast to fall down the cone into the bottle. That and the amount you can control the flow is rubbish so you just get the middle down but not the sides.

I have started having the bottle open from the start of fermentation and then as soon as it fills after day 3 i dump that trub and refit it and then before i dry hop i close the valve and reclaim the yeast that it has collected.

I have also made a small mod to the loop on the transfer float and the pipe connector to get it close to the float so you have less loss on emptying. I don't think a racking arm is worth it.

I am also thinking about mods to try and improve hop suspension as well.

But generally i am really pleased with mine. So much so some of the guys on here have renamed them Hoddyasaurus'es

 

[dan125]

+1 for bottling direct from the FS (HS) with a beergun
I've had no problems dumping/saving yeast but always purge the fresh bottles with CO2. I have found that pellet dry hops won't sink in to the bottle if I open the valve after they have already settled in the main vessel.
To get the dry hops agitated a bit I've found that letting the pressure off quickly does the job - its amazing how much the beer gets stirred up after a minute or so - doesn't help with CO2 consumption though when you have to re-pressurise/carbonate the beer.
:small

 

[Hoddy]

+1 for bottling direct from the FS (HS) with a beergun
I've had no problems dumping/saving yeast but always purge the fresh bottles with CO2. I have found that pellet dry hops won't sink in to the bottle if I open the valve after they have already settled in the main vessel.
To get the dry hops agitated a bit I've found that letting the pressure off quickly does the job - its amazing how much the beer gets stirred up after a minute or so - doesn't help with CO2 consumption though when you have to re-pressurise/carbonate the beer.
:small

That’s exactly the process I’ve been adopting Dan. I can’t help. It think there must be another to get the hops back into suspension to maximise exposure. But that’ll do for now.


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[GerritT]

heat tolerant yeasts

Pray, what yeasts are you about?

 

[Drunkula]

Pray, what yeasts are you about?

Kveik. People are drying out the trub and sending out flakes of them in bags like it's a virus.

Here's what Dame Sir Ian Holm said about it back in seventy odd nine.

 

[Snoop]

Yes i have been really happy with mine. Being able to do a pressure transfer into my kegs with no O2 exposure has been a revelation for me. I know what you mean about the yeast dumping, its like the valve isnt quite big enough to allow the yeast to fall down the cone into the bottle. That and the amount you can control the flow is rubbish so you just get the middle down but not the sides.

I have started having the bottle open from the start of fermentation and then as soon as it fills after day 3 i dump that trub and refit it and then before i dry hop i close the valve and reclaim the yeast that it has collected.

I have also made a small mod to the loop on the transfer float and the pipe connector to get it close to the float so you have less loss on emptying. I don't think a racking arm is worth it.

I am also thinking about mods to try and improve hop suspension as well.

But generally i am really pleased with mine. So much so some of the guys on here have renamed them Hoddyasaurus'es

Have you seen the mark 2?



2 sizes and various improvements. Thermowell, purge valve on collection bottle, bigger top opening and massively bigger butterfly valve at bottom, stronger stand and plastic that can withstand over 100c. They'll sell alot of those if they keep the price down way below stainless alternatives.

 

[GerritT]

Kveik. People are drying out the trub and sending out flakes of them in bags like it's a virus.

Here's what Dame Sir Ian Holm said about it back in seventy odd nine.

Ah the Nordic farmhouse yeasts. I got my eye on them too. Can't wait till they show up in regular stores.

 

[Mungri]

Have you seen the mark 2?



2 sizes and various improvements. Thermowell, purge valve on collection bottle, bigger top opening and massively bigger butterfly valve at bottom, stronger stand and plastic that can withstand over 100c. They'll sell alot of those if they keep the price down way below stainless alternatives.

Didn't know there was a Mk2 on the way. I've been looking at one of these so thanks for posting. I wonder when these will be available over here?

 

[F00b4r]

Yes i have been really happy with mine. Being able to do a pressure transfer into my kegs with no O2 exposure has been a revelation for me. I know what you mean about the yeast dumping, its like the valve isnt quite big enough to allow the yeast to fall down the cone into the bottle. That and the amount you can control the flow is rubbish so you just get the middle down but not the sides.

Apparently they PET material at that part isn't extruded as much so isn't as smooth as the higher parts where is just falls off; this should not be an issue with the V2 models. I saw someone mention they used a rubber mallet to tap it a few times to get the fine yeast layer that can cling around that bit to drop but I have never bothered as it doesn't make much difference to my volumes and I get crystal clear beer drawing from the top.

 

[Snoop]

Didn't know there was a Mk2 on the way. I've been looking at one of these so thanks for posting. I wonder when these will be available over here?

Not sure think it might still be preorder in Aus. They are getting reduced over here (malt miller for example) so presumably it's on its way. Looks a massive improvement from the one I have which is a bit annoying!

 

[dan125]

The Mk2 looks like it'll fix all the little annoyancies with the Mk1 :thumb:
I wonder if the 50L version will fit in my brew fridge aunsure....

 

[Snoop]

It's the same width but taller. Fairly sure it not fit in my 5 foot fridge. I think the sizing is the only thing that's not improved. I really like the 35litre size.

 

[dan125]

The 50L is 934mm to the top of the lid & I've got exactly 1000mm - might just squeeze one in abigt
http://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/Fermentasaurus 2 Uni Tank, Conical Pressurisable Fermenter.pdf
I like the 35L size though too - as it just about maxs out my 50L BIAB pot to end up with 28L of wort to fill it.

 

[Snoop]

Won't fit with the posts and disconnects

Fairly sure you could make an offset stand for it tho and use the space that's wasted at the bottom? Potentially drop it down another 20cm which would be enough.

The 35litre is perfect for me as I brew all sorts of amounts depending on what I'm doing with it. I have a 30l keg. And also 19/9l cornies. So brewing 30litres is very useful. 50liters is too big and 27 too small. You'd really struggle to move a 50l model with beer in it too. So would need filling in situ which isn't possible for me .

 

[SmallSpacesBrewing]

I recently got a fermentasaurus for cheap and I have some questions about bottling directly from the fermentasaurus that I can't find any good information about.

1. Can you get fully carbed beer from it and then bottle from it? I have a spunding valve and sodastream gas with all the adapters as well as the ekstra fermentasaurus pressurelid with the ballconnects and the floating ball. I'm looking into a counter pressure bottle filler. And before you say use kegs, I don't have the gear or space :):)

2. If so, how much do I set the spunding valve on for a well carbed ale.

3. Is it very important the get all of the yeast/trub out before bottling.

4. How much should I set the sodastream gas on to get a good flow?

5. Any additional tips before attempting this and ruining my beer?

Please help. I've been searching for days

 

[dan125]

I recently got a fermentasaurus for cheap and I have some questions about bottling directly from the fermentasaurus that I can't find any good information about.

1. Can you get fully carbed beer from it and then bottle from it? I have a spunding valve and sodastream gas with all the adapters as well as the ekstra fermentasaurus pressurelid with the ballconnects and the floating ball. I'm looking into a counter pressure bottle filler. And before you say use kegs, I don't have the gear or space :):)

2. If so, how much do I set the spunding valve on for a well carbed ale.

3. Is it very important the get all of the yeast/trub out before bottling.

4. How much should I set the sodastream gas on to get a good flow?

5. Any additional tips before attempting this and ruining my beer?

Please help. I've been searching for days

1. Yes, this is exactly what I do - although I don't have a way yet to keep the gas permanently attached whilst doing this yet so have found it takes a good squirts of gas a few times a day to keep the pressure up over about a week while cold crashing to get a decent carb.

2. You want to close the spunding valve right down or leave it off as you don't want CO2 escaping while carbing

3. You'll never get it all out but most will have settled out and be taken awy / left behind anyway

4. Can't help you with this as I have no idea about sodastream bottles

5. Get the beer and the bottles really cold before bottling to help reduce the amount of CO2 coming out of solution while bottling (you can't help but loose some so better to slightly overcarb in the FS)

 

[SmallSpacesBrewing]

1. Yes, this is exactly what I do - although I don't have a way yet to keep the gas permanently attached whilst doing this yet so have found it takes a good squirts of gas a few times a day to keep the pressure up over about a week while cold crashing to get a decent carb.

2. You want to close the spunding valve right down or leave it off as you don't want CO2 escaping while carbing

3. You'll never get it all out but most will have settled out and be taken awy / left behind anyway

4. Can't help you with this as I have no idea about sodastream bottles

5. Get the beer and the bottles really cold before bottling to help reduce the amount of CO2 coming out of solution while bottling (you can't help but loose some so better to slightly overcarb in the FS)

Based on your answer I might have misunderstood something. On question 2.
I thought that by setting the spunding valve at a fixed pressure the gas will only escape when the pressure goes over the fixed one and that way keep the fermentasaurus at that pressure. I had planned to control the carbonation that way. Am I wrong?
Thanks for the long and explained answer. :)